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Old 03-23-2010, 10:35 AM
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Lubricate or Don't Lubricate Brake Pads?

I had my brake pads and rotors replaced about 3 months ago. The brakes squeak terribly at very slow speeds. The dealer said pads/rotors were never lubricated and need to be lubricated.

I took the car to a independent and they said lubrication isn't required.

What's your thoughts? lubricate or don't lubricate? i have a 2006 X5 3.0
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Old 03-23-2010, 10:58 AM
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Does he mean applying that blue liquid they put on the metal plates that snap on the brake pad to prevent squeeling. I dont believe bmw pads have them.
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Old 03-23-2010, 11:20 AM
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You should not need any"lubrication"???? Try properly bedding the pads and rotors first. Search bedding brakes. There some info on the site some where.
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Old 03-23-2010, 11:29 AM
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There is no lubrication installed from the factory. After your car left the factory, the heating and cooling cycles, and the corrosive atmosphere will cause the brake components such as the caliper housing, caliper bracket to rust. BMW recommends the replacement of anti-rattle springs after 48 months of use. And to install 81 22 9 407 103 bmw brake pad paste during any brake dissassembly/replacment.
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Old 03-23-2010, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayback View Post
I had my brake pads and rotors replaced about 3 months ago. The brakes squeak terribly at very slow speeds. The dealer said pads/rotors were never lubricated and need to be lubricated.

I took the car to a independent and they said lubrication isn't required.

What's your thoughts? lubricate or don't lubricate? i have a 2006 X5 3.0
Yep, I had the low speed which is light brake pedal application squeal. Try lubricate the guide pin; there are 2 of this on each caliper, the one that you need to take off with 7mm hex drive. Good luck.
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Old 03-23-2010, 07:22 PM
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Do Not lubricate the two pins, they are designed to be dry, as per BMW.

The 'lubrication' being referred to is an application of high temperature grease, on the ears of the pads where they contact the calipers. This isolates the pad and helps with any squeal.

Some mechanics will apply a goop to the back of the pad to isolate the pad from the piston or caliper. Lots of companies make similar products. I don't like this in general, as it doesn't tend to stay in place, and it can lead to a soft pedal as it is compressible. In some cases it may be necessary, but try to just get away with the grease on the pad ears.
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Old 03-24-2010, 04:59 AM
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I went through a similar situation when I replaced pads/discs. I believe my indy placed some sort of paste/goop or whatever, however they started and continued to squeel for some time after. They have settled down now and all's quiet with superb braking albeit with half a kilo of dust generated each week.
Don't start me on the f*%#*n dust issue. GL
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Old 03-24-2010, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCL View Post
Do Not lubricate the two pins, they are designed to be dry, as per BMW.

The 'lubrication' being referred to is an application of high temperature grease, on the ears of the pads where they contact the calipers. This isolates the pad and helps with any squeal.

Some mechanics will apply a goop to the back of the pad to isolate the pad from the piston or caliper.
Agreed. Do not lubricate the pins. They, and the rubber insert guides they go into can be cleaned with Wurth rubber care, but do not lubricate. The rubber guides are designed to work properly when dry. They have 5 concentric rubber rings inside that 'pull' the pin back a few microns after applying the brakes, which helps to pull the pads away from the rotors. If you lube them, you'll kill this intended action.

I wouldn't use the anti-squeal goop either (blue or red stuff). Put a thin coat of hi-temp brake grease between the pad back and the piston, along with the pad ears. You can go with 'dry' pads if the manufacturer has design the pads with an anti-squeal plate on the back.. but its a 'try and see' situation. Still might squeal.

Most squealing comes from pad against the rotor, which means its time to rebed the brakes.
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