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  #381  
Old 12-26-2018, 05:36 AM
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Not sure if it was this thread somewhere (!) but there are two piece cv boots which can be glued around the joint. And they’re very cheap. Couple of guys on this forum, or might have been the uk site, xdrivers, have used with success.
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  #382  
Old 01-13-2019, 09:11 PM
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Job done

This is definitely not a thirty minutes job. I thought I would take 3 hours, but the reality is more like 13 hours. Now, if I redo it again, it will be likely take 3 hours. This is an 2005 x5 3.0. I had the hardest challenge push back on the first axel from the drive hub. I went to Autozone rented me a puller and slide hammer, but they didn’t help that much. I went out bought me a bigger hammer with no advancement. So, I ended up sprayed bunch of WD40 multiple time during the Cowboys/charger game on both axles and have it sit overnight. I was able to hammer it off with ease this morning. Prying off from the transmission was easy, putting the driver side back took me an hour, I think the angle was the problem pushing the axel in. I used my lift to hold the axel on the same height and used hammer to smack the darn thing in.

A few differences for people who will do this job. I didn’t remove the swing arms. All I have done is remove the two 22mm bolts holding the hub the the struct. I turned the steering wheel to the max left or right to help me angle the axel out.


Have fun!

Last edited by monty_yao; 01-13-2019 at 09:48 PM.
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  #383  
Old 01-14-2019, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svvg View Post
Not sure if it was this thread somewhere (!) but there are two piece cv boots which can be glued around the joint. And they’re very cheap. Couple of guys on this forum, or might have been the uk site, xdrivers, have used with success.
Yeah, thats me as well with the Balicast Stickyboot, its still on the car now, no splits either. And... my x5 loves to eat CV boots so I don't see the point in spending ages doing the axle pull method, even with a stretchy boot, its still time consuming. The key with the Glued boot, its take your time, cut off the old boot and CLEAN everything out, then pack in the grease, then wrap some clingfilm/shrinkwrap around the hub joint and axle, then when you glue the boot no grease or dirt can get on the boot. Then, about 2cm at a time, glue the boot together. 1st time took me an hour, I have it down to 40 mins now but that is with cleaning and wirebrushing, brake clean the area ready for new boot install. Of course, once you are glued, remove the clingfilm and install boot in place and fit the CV boot clips.
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What I had updated
Carbon Effect Steering Wheel
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New discs and pads all round
All new front suspension links, bushes and rods

Last edited by Lamby; 01-14-2019 at 06:46 AM.
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  #384  
Old 01-15-2019, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by oldskewel View Post
I agree, from having done it just now, and seeing how things went, this would be the first attempt if/when I have to do it again.

The tricky thing is to hold the axle and tap the outer joint off the axle splines + c-ring. My slide hammer did that pretty easily (when I was not trying to do it), pulling from the inner end of the axle. But yes, I'd try exactly what you say as my first attempt.

And yes, not having to touch the inner boot/joint at all would be a huge benefit, since it seems the inner boots last relatively forever, vs. the outer boots.

It would have been great for me to find this before doing the job just now, but you know, buried in 38 pages of other stuff ... But now I know.
So is there no need to remove the c-ring before providing a hit with the hammer?

Also how do you get the c-ring back on?
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  #385  
Old 01-15-2019, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArchE53 View Post
So is there no need to remove the c-ring before providing a hit with the hammer?

Also how do you get the c-ring back on?
You cannot remove the c-ring before removing the axle from the outer CV - it's INSIDE the outer CV.

Which the right technique, the c-ring is compressed by you adding the correct tension/forces and the axle slides out. Putting back in is easy - slightly compress the c-ring and slide the axle back into the outer CV.
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  #386  
Old 01-15-2019, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
You cannot remove the c-ring before removing the axle from the outer CV - it's INSIDE the outer CV.

Which the right technique, the c-ring is compressed by you adding the correct tension/forces and the axle slides out. Putting back in is easy - slightly compress the c-ring and slide the axle back into the outer CV.
Thanks, that makes sense.
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  #387  
Old 01-15-2019, 05:35 PM
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Here's a generic CV joint image to show what's going on here...



The idea is to put a little tension on the axle - labelled as "Halfshaft" in above image - and this should slightly compress the "Lock Ring". A sharp tap with a suitable soft drift on the shoulder of the "Inner race" while putting tension on the joint should allow the "Halfshaft" to pull out of the "Inner Race".

This is all done with the old boot cut from the joint, or at least slid back along the axle out of the way...

The "Housing" remains in the wheel bearings etc.
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  #388  
Old 01-15-2019, 05:36 PM
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And to add on that good advice ...

I would rotate the wheel through a full rotation or two while applying that tension. So you'll need both front wheels off the ground. Can have the wheel off on the side of the joint you're replacing and have a helper rotate the wheel on the other side. I think the tension, combined with the rotation will allow the C-clip to center itself and compress slightly before the hammer hits.

Yes, this may fit the category of things that are a little extra work to avoid a disaster rather than something that is absolutely needed. But that's what I try to do - avoid disasters first. Such as when I choose this path rather than even touching the axle nut if I can avoid that.

And if you buy new GKN boot kits like I did, they come with new C-clips, a couple of options as I recall, expecting that one of the two will be a good match for what you need.
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  #389  
Old 01-15-2019, 05:38 PM
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Thanks.

Naturally, you would do this with the new boot well up the halfshaft clear of and potential hammer damage.
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  #390  
Old 01-15-2019, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ArchE53 View Post
Thanks.

Naturally, you would do this with the new boot well up the halfshaft clear of and potential hammer damage.
Nope - at this point the new boot is sitting in it's box on your workshop bench... You haven't gotten the old on off yet...
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