|
Xoutpost server transfer and maintenance is occurring.... |
Xoutpost is currently undergoing a planned server migration.... stay tuned for new developments.... sincerely, the management |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#411
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Quote:
I'm no longer surprised. The main lesson I've learned is that things will be different, maybe from one side to the other, one time to the next, etc. Things that might be hard end up being easy. Things that should be easy end up being impossible. So I don't go in there with a rigid plan to follow, but rather a set of options. It is very easy and common to come across something that just does not want to come out like it should. Brute force seems to cause more problems. Retreat and choosing a different angle of attack has always worked for me. I often start off going for the easiest route, hoping things are easy, and sometimes they are. But if I have doubts for some reason, sometimes I specifically choose a procedure that may take more time, but is least likely to lead to disaster. It seems that the root cause of many stuck shafts is that the c-ring in the rectangular groove in the splined shaft will get hung up off center. The trick is to somehow persuade it to center itself so it can then compress inward and release. svvg's method a couple of posts up might be his method for getting this done if I understood it right. Next time you see one, in the groove, take a careful look. Think about how that ring would move (or get stuck) when the joint tries to slide off the shaft, past it. Pulled, pried, hammered, ... So options are good. That's why I bought that tool. Since it does not work on these cars without modification, it only helps as a backup option.
__________________
2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 |
Sponsored Links | |
|
#412
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I like the idea if stretch boots and gluable ones - which earlier posters have used with great success. I’ve tried a stretch boot on another car and it was too loose a fit - but may have just been unlucky with that. |
#413
|
|||
|
|||
I used a Dremel tool and this carbide burr set. Took me about an hour to widen the tool enough for the spline shaft to pass. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07FCQ5YDC/..._BGfREbAV6MEVJ
The thing is, I didn't want to use a hammer on the joint. Well now I may continue, coz from all the banging it must be toast anyways. I'll try SVVG's method with hitting it from different sides and angles. Maybe another mistake I made was using an impact driver. This is how I probably stripped the thread. Too much torque. The stupid ring is most likely stuck as you said. In the video I linked, the guy ended up cutting through the joint to remove it. His conclusion was that that joint was non serviceable and the ring was made it a way to be impossible to remove. |
#414
|
|||
|
|||
SVVG
Unfortunately the axle puller is not good enough. I couldn't separate one of the joints with it. Also check the video I linked where the axle puller broke before being able to separate the joint. Here's how I modified the tool to work. The first shift had no problem, but the second one wouldn't budge. I tried hitting it with hammer in all directions and still nothing. A found another solution, waaaaay simpler... I removed the o ring on the other side, and now I can slide both boots through it So much simpler, no need to remove the joint... I don't know if the shaft is gonna be ok given how much banging I did. But I was soaking the shafts in phosphoric acid, wire wheeling and grinding etc. to remove all the rust. So I'm gonna paint it now and put it back together. Will see if it works. After removing all the rust I used 100 grip sandpaper and wiped off with xylene, then painted 2 coats. I thought the paint was black but it's actually green lol I'm gonna wait a couple of days and put it back together |
#415
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Quote:
A method I have used in getting the c-ring to self-align is to pry the CV joint with a constant force while rotating the axle. The best way I've found to rotate the axle is to have both wheels up and free, and have one of my kids rotate the opposite wheel as I tell them what to do. The differential (with the transmission in park) will of course make the axle I'm working on rotate in an opposite way. And believing in the importance of that C-ring, I carefully inspect it when re-installing to make sure it is not deformed or overly expanded after it drops into the channel.
__________________
2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 |
#416
|
||||
|
||||
If the threads to the CV joint are mess up you can buy a replacement CV joint instead of replacing the entire axle with a cheap axle made from who knows where. If you have a 3.0 E53 and you mess up the driver side axle I have an original BMW front axle. $50.00 plus shipping. I can send pictures.
__________________
2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
#417
|
|||
|
|||
The thread is still usable, but not the greatest. Well the problem is that I cannot get the joint off the shaft lol...
Maybe I put blue or red loctite on the thread to make sure it stays tight. Though I think as things are, the thread will be good enough |
#418
|
|||
|
|||
Oh great, the boots are wrong size.
I ordered outer and inner boots from rockauto, and the inner is supposed to be smaller but it's not. Here's the picture comparing the new inner and outer boots with an old inner boot. The new inner boot has some kind of a rubber insert, something I didn't have on my old boots. It's way too big anyway. I tried looking up by part numbers, bmw boots are around 80-100 CAD. Wow, more expensive than a whole aftermarket axle shaft assembly. Am I doing something wrong lol |
#419
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
#420
|
|||
|
|||
Ahhh I figured it out.
I'll post this info so that someone else doesn't run into the same issue. I ordered part Rein BKN0100R from Rockauto because it matches the OEM part number 31607565315 It arrived and the diameter is so big. Looks like the Rockauto system is not properly organized. I looked again, and I see another part, Rein BKN0061R which is also listed as inner boot. I suspect BKN0061R and BKN0100R are two different boots with different diameters. Since BKN0100R did not work, I suspect I need BKN0061R. However as per screenshot, the OEM numbers listed for both parts are the same, which it cannot be. Furthermore, Rockauto does not list the diameters for the boots, so it's impossible to figure out which is correct... I wanted to call Rockauto but they got rid of their customer service on the phone and everything is fully online now. I attached a second image of what I believe are the correct dimensions for the inner cv axle boot |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
|