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  #411  
Old 05-01-2020, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmwe5320023.0 View Post
You're right, I had to modify the tool to make it a bit wider....
Any details on what you modified, and how you did it? Machine shop?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmwe5320023.0 View Post
...That's why I'm always amazed and in disbelief when I hear people say that it's so easy to remove the joint and that's why I was trying to avoid separating the shift from the joint at all costs...
I've done both front axles on my E53 (just replacing the boots), and maybe a dozen CV axles on other cars in my lifetime, and ...

I'm no longer surprised.

The main lesson I've learned is that things will be different, maybe from one side to the other, one time to the next, etc. Things that might be hard end up being easy. Things that should be easy end up being impossible.

So I don't go in there with a rigid plan to follow, but rather a set of options. It is very easy and common to come across something that just does not want to come out like it should. Brute force seems to cause more problems. Retreat and choosing a different angle of attack has always worked for me.

I often start off going for the easiest route, hoping things are easy, and sometimes they are. But if I have doubts for some reason, sometimes I specifically choose a procedure that may take more time, but is least likely to lead to disaster.

It seems that the root cause of many stuck shafts is that the c-ring in the rectangular groove in the splined shaft will get hung up off center. The trick is to somehow persuade it to center itself so it can then compress inward and release. svvg's method a couple of posts up might be his method for getting this done if I understood it right.

Next time you see one, in the groove, take a careful look. Think about how that ring would move (or get stuck) when the joint tries to slide off the shaft, past it. Pulled, pried, hammered, ...

So options are good. That's why I bought that tool. Since it does not work on these cars without modification, it only helps as a backup option.
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  #412  
Old 05-01-2020, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldskewel View Post
Any details on what you modified, and how you did it? Machine shop?


I've done both front axles on my E53 (just replacing the boots), and maybe a dozen CV axles on other cars in my lifetime, and ...

I'm no longer surprised.

The main lesson I've learned is that things will be different, maybe from one side to the other, one time to the next, etc. Things that might be hard end up being easy. Things that should be easy end up being impossible.

So I don't go in there with a rigid plan to follow, but rather a set of options. It is very easy and common to come across something that just does not want to come out like it should. Brute force seems to cause more problems. Retreat and choosing a different angle of attack has always worked for me.

I often start off going for the easiest route, hoping things are easy, and sometimes they are. But if I have doubts for some reason, sometimes I specifically choose a procedure that may take more time, but is least likely to lead to disaster.

It seems that the root cause of many stuck shafts is that the c-ring in the rectangular groove in the splined shaft will get hung up off center. The trick is to somehow persuade it to center itself so it can then compress inward and release. svvg's method a couple of posts up might be his method for getting this done if I understood it right.

Next time you see one, in the groove, take a careful look. Think about how that ring would move (or get stuck) when the joint tries to slide off the shaft, past it. Pulled, pried, hammered, ...

So options are good. That's why I bought that tool. Since it does not work on these cars without modification, it only helps as a backup option.
Yep. Per the above. I also bought an axle puller - which would definitely be the way to go if it fitted - as you can see how it would overcome the c clip in a nice controlled manner, but the one I bought had too narrow an opening for the thick driveshaft to pass through. As you mention, I think the c clip lies at a slight angle, and itís about rotating the drive shaft so the position is right when you do actually smack it. I beat the shit out of it a few times and nothing, so rotated it a bit and whacked it - not with any particular superstrength or internal resolve(!) and it popped clean off, nice and easy.

I like the idea if stretch boots and gluable ones - which earlier posters have used with great success. Iíve tried a stretch boot on another car and it was too loose a fit - but may have just been unlucky with that.
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  #413  
Old 05-01-2020, 01:22 PM
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I used a Dremel tool and this carbide burr set. Took me about an hour to widen the tool enough for the spline shaft to pass. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07FCQ5YDC/..._BGfREbAV6MEVJ

The thing is, I didn't want to use a hammer on the joint. Well now I may continue, coz from all the banging it must be toast anyways. I'll try SVVG's method with hitting it from different sides and angles.
Maybe another mistake I made was using an impact driver. This is how I probably stripped the thread. Too much torque.
The stupid ring is most likely stuck as you said. In the video I linked, the guy ended up cutting through the joint to remove it. His conclusion was that that joint was non serviceable and the ring was made it a way to be impossible to remove.
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  #414  
Old 05-01-2020, 04:04 PM
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SVVG
Unfortunately the axle puller is not good enough. I couldn't separate one of the joints with it. Also check the video I linked where the axle puller broke before being able to separate the joint.

Here's how I modified the tool to work.


The first shift had no problem, but the second one wouldn't budge.
I tried hitting it with hammer in all directions and still nothing.

A found another solution, waaaaay simpler...
I removed the o ring on the other side, and now I can slide both boots through it


So much simpler, no need to remove the joint...


I don't know if the shaft is gonna be ok given how much banging I did. But I was soaking the shafts in phosphoric acid, wire wheeling and grinding etc. to remove all the rust. So I'm gonna paint it now and put it back together.
Will see if it works.
After removing all the rust I used 100 grip sandpaper and wiped off with xylene, then painted 2 coats. I thought the paint was black but it's actually green lol

I'm gonna wait a couple of days and put it back together
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  #415  
Old 05-01-2020, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmwe5320023.0 View Post
I used a Dremel tool and this carbide burr set. Took me about an hour to widen the tool enough for the spline shaft to pass. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07FCQ5YDC/..._BGfREbAV6MEVJ
for your patience on that. I'll save that option as my backup plan.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmwe5320023.0 View Post
The thing is, I didn't want to use a hammer on the joint. Well now I may continue, coz from all the banging it must be toast anyways. I'll try SVVG's method with hitting it from different sides and angles.
Maybe another mistake I made was using an impact driver. This is how I probably stripped the thread. Too much torque.
The stupid ring is most likely stuck as you said. In the video I linked, the guy ended up cutting through the joint to remove it. His conclusion was that that joint was non serviceable and the ring was made it a way to be impossible to remove.
I similarly do everything I can do to avoid using a hammer on a joint. The concern is damaging the bearing surfaces, which may not cause immediate problems.

A method I have used in getting the c-ring to self-align is to pry the CV joint with a constant force while rotating the axle. The best way I've found to rotate the axle is to have both wheels up and free, and have one of my kids rotate the opposite wheel as I tell them what to do. The differential (with the transmission in park) will of course make the axle I'm working on rotate in an opposite way.

And believing in the importance of that C-ring, I carefully inspect it when re-installing to make sure it is not deformed or overly expanded after it drops into the channel.
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  #416  
Old 05-01-2020, 08:29 PM
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If the threads to the CV joint are mess up you can buy a replacement CV joint instead of replacing the entire axle with a cheap axle made from who knows where. If you have a 3.0 E53 and you mess up the driver side axle I have an original BMW front axle. $50.00 plus shipping. I can send pictures.
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  #417  
Old 05-02-2020, 02:19 AM
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The thread is still usable, but not the greatest. Well the problem is that I cannot get the joint off the shaft lol...
Maybe I put blue or red loctite on the thread to make sure it stays tight. Though I think as things are, the thread will be good enough
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  #418  
Old 05-02-2020, 11:42 PM
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Oh great, the boots are wrong size.
I ordered outer and inner boots from rockauto, and the inner is supposed to be smaller but it's not. Here's the picture comparing the new inner and outer boots with an old inner boot.

The new inner boot has some kind of a rubber insert, something I didn't have on my old boots. It's way too big anyway.
I tried looking up by part numbers, bmw boots are around 80-100 CAD. Wow, more expensive than a whole aftermarket axle shaft assembly.
Am I doing something wrong lol
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  #419  
Old 05-03-2020, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmwe5320023.0 View Post
Oh great, the boots are wrong size.
I ordered outer and inner boots from rockauto, and the inner is supposed to be smaller but it's not. Here's the picture comparing the new inner and outer boots with an old inner boot.

The new inner boot has some kind of a rubber insert, something I didn't have on my old boots. It's way too big anyway.
I tried looking up by part numbers, bmw boots are around 80-100 CAD. Wow, more expensive than a whole aftermarket axle shaft assembly.
Am I doing something wrong lol
Yeah, you try DIYing in Hope of saving some money.
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2006 Infiniti G35
2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD
Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire
Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered
Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered
PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen
Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids
BMW 525IT Sold
Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold
Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold
Opel 1900 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold
Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD
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  #420  
Old 05-03-2020, 03:20 PM
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Ahhh I figured it out.
I'll post this info so that someone else doesn't run into the same issue.

I ordered part Rein BKN0100R from Rockauto because it matches the OEM part number 31607565315

It arrived and the diameter is so big.

Looks like the Rockauto system is not properly organized.

I looked again, and I see another part, Rein BKN0061R which is also listed as inner boot.

I suspect BKN0061R and BKN0100R are two different boots with different diameters.
Since BKN0100R did not work, I suspect I need BKN0061R.

However as per screenshot, the OEM numbers listed for both parts are the same, which it cannot be.

Furthermore, Rockauto does not list the diameters for the boots, so it's impossible to figure out which is correct...
I wanted to call Rockauto but they got rid of their customer service on the phone and everything is fully online now.

I attached a second image of what I believe are the correct dimensions for the inner cv axle boot

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