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#31
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I've never had this type of noise from brakes before. |
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#32
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Well I took the mechanic for a drive.
Said it's not the CV joint as it would click or pop - he also checked the backplate and it's not rubbing. He said it could just be the new discs/pads bedding in, apparently the CV joint isn't about to seize up so it's safe to drive. I'm off on a long trip next week (driving) so I'll see how it is when I return and take it back for further investigation if necessary. |
#33
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the mechanic is probably correct . I have heard similar noise from corroded discs . similar noise after the brakes have been refitted during other work so it`s not uncommon for this to happen . the hub / discs do flex a little with cornering loads .
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#34
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Looking for some tips to easily slip the shaft out of the CV joint. Holding tight with vice grips, but not moving much.
Any tools that can hold the shaft more firmly? |
#35
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Ok, just to clarify, this is all that's really required:
Quote:
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#36
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I found another thread from a BMW dealer employee.
Nothing to remove really.... 1) unbolt the control arm (the straight arm) at the end closer to the engine. 2) swing out the whole assembly by hand and afix with something firmly 3) remove outer boot clamps and cut off the outer boot. 4) grab the driveaxle firmy with vice grips and pry the shaft out of the CV joint against the force of the retaining C-clip. 5) wipe off grease, install new clamp, boot, clamp and C-clip. 6) while applying pressure to push axle back into CV joint, use a good sized screwdriver and poke at the C clip until it snaps in. 7) Apply the grease from the packet and then tighten clamps. 8) put on tie rod and only tighten it once vehicle weight is on the front wheels. I did one side successfully. Once I got the hang of it.I had to grip the axle with vice grips in the narrow part of the axle you see in the pics above. Then use a large prybar and a large metal object to lever the axle out of the CV joint. Driver's Side out: I got confident and went to passenger side, and it wont snap out like the driver side did. I wish I could remove the C clip somehow without having to force it out of the CV joint. Can't get passenger side out yet....: |
#37
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I don't know how long the boots have been bad, it's been since the last oil change when I checked, so it's been 6 months. Should I just replace the complete axles? It doesn't seem like it's much more difficult to just replace the whole thing.
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#38
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Quote:
Not difficult, just much more expensive. The axle doesn't go bad, it is just a piece of metal. If the joints are smooth, just put a boot on for $30 and you will probably not have to change the CV joint for the rest of the time that you have the car. |
#39
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Tried making my own tool.....
Still hanging in there, and just won't budge. Got the idea from this post: CV Boot Replacement (front Axles) - Pelican Parts Technical BBS Last edited by dville; 01-08-2011 at 01:59 PM. |
#40
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I was determined to find a solution to getting this boot on without dismantling the hub.
I only have OUTER boots, and I did not order INNER boots, so if I removed them, I would have to preserve the clamps so I can reuse them. I just did it from the inside end of the boot. Still the only thing removed is the control arm bolt under the CV axle. Remove the larger INNER CV boot clamp, pull in the caliper and axle will come out of the inner joint. Removed the little "wheels" on the inner joint, removed the C clip, and used a puller to remove the joint Axle is now free from the inner end. Slide on OUTER boot, its 2 clamps, then the INNER boot and its 2 clamps. Got the right CV clamp tool for $8 at Advance Auto Parts. |
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