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  #11  
Old 08-01-2010, 10:00 PM
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As per request.

Quote:
Originally Posted by floydturbo
Please post to the current cv boot thread on how to replace the outer boot without pulling the axle, etc.
Just unbolt the lower control arm and lever the whole spindle out against the thrust arm/tie rod a couple inches. (you can use a long screwdriver or jack handle to hold it out) use wire cutters to cut off the band clamps on the old boot and a razor blade to cut off the old boot. With the spindle propped about 2 inches out from normal there are a couple ways to release the joint. You can put a big set of vice grips further back on the cv shaft and give a quick tap back on that with a hammer, or put them about an inch away from the back of the joint and use a prybar. Once you have popped the shaft out of the joint. Prop the spindle out further for room. Clean off the shaft with a rag, slip the new boot on the shaft with the small band clamp behind it, further down than normal at this point for room. Clean and repack the joint with grease. Now put the big band clamp over the boot and let the spindle back in. It has to be lined up good and flush with the center part of the joint where the splines go in to the retaining clip. While holding slight pressure in on the spindle use a small screwdriver or pick to press the clip into the groove on the shaft and it should pop in to place. Then throw some more grease in the boot and pull it into place over the axle joint and clamp the band clamps tight. Put the control arm back in place and don't tighten the bolt til she is sitting on her wheels for proper bushing positioning. Then hey look, you just did a boot replacement without even taking the axle nut loose or having to press the joint out of the spindle!
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  #12  
Old 08-02-2010, 01:23 AM
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My 2005 front/right boot is bad. I noticed this while replacing the a/c pusher fan this past weekend. I looked on eBay and they some 'cheap' solutions. You can purchase the entire axle with both boots for just over $100. I replaced a Camry axle before and replacing the whole axle takes less time then disassembling, cleaning, and putting back together an 'old' axle.
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  #13  
Old 08-02-2010, 04:06 AM
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I just replaced the second CV boot in less than a year... for the same side!!! I replaced a torn boot last september, and few days back i noticed that it went bad already! so I replaced it again! the independent mechanic got this CV boot from BMW dealer, and said it is made in Polland and of good quality.... let's wait and see :s
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  #14  
Old 08-02-2010, 08:11 AM
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Let it be noted on this thread too that people who bought the cheap ass axles and boots in the past have had problems with quality and longevity and ended up going OEM after.
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  #15  
Old 08-02-2010, 06:38 PM
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cv boots

Also need 2 outer boots replaced on my x5. Weasel in looking at the diy cv boot replacement on tips and tricks, could you tell me which steps would be needed, after removing tire and brake caliper, to replace the boot as you suggest. Got quoted $1300 from moritzbmw, including parts $200. My indie would replace axle with new boots, bmw $500, from napa $125 a piece but worried using anything other then oem as you suggest. No clicking when making turns and think i caught it pretty early.
Thanks

btw this forum has saved me a bunch, did myself, ccv, valve cover, window regulators plus fix for fronts, belt change, tracing down air leak causing ses light and last getting codes read for dsc, abs and brake light. Turned out to be steering angle sensor. Maybe i can do this boot job!
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  #16  
Old 08-06-2010, 10:30 AM
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Many thanks to Weasel for the method above, I just noticed my boat was ripped this week when doing an oil change, since I wasnt hearing any noise I assumed I caught it early so I ordered a new boot kit form Bav auto, it arrived in 2 days, I used the method Weasel describes above of just unbolting the lower control arm, removing the caliper, rotor etc. After some cursing and moaning I was able to release the shaft form the joint with vise grips and my jack handle using the slam/prying method, cleaned out the old grase, put new, lined up the shaft and new clip, gve it a little shoved and it popped back together. I also use marine 304 stainless compression clamps rather then the standard ones which require a special pair of plyers. Took her for a ride last night, no noise, no vibrations. Hoping I didnt get any dirt/particles in the grease and this is a long term repair, we shall see.
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  #17  
Old 08-06-2010, 02:54 PM
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That sounds easy enough to do. Good job!!!
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  #18  
Old 08-06-2010, 07:03 PM
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Sweet! Won't find that in the TIS

Thanks.

I will use this method next time. That collar nut makes me nervous when torquing.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Weasel View Post
As per request.



Just unbolt the lower control arm and lever the whole spindle out against the thrust arm/tie rod a couple inches. (you can use a long screwdriver or jack handle to hold it out) use wire cutters to cut off the band clamps on the old boot and a razor blade to cut off the old boot. With the spindle propped about 2 inches out from normal there are a couple ways to release the joint. You can put a big set of vice grips further back on the cv shaft and give a quick tap back on that with a hammer, or put them about an inch away from the back of the joint and use a prybar. Once you have popped the shaft out of the joint. Prop the spindle out further for room. Clean off the shaft with a rag, slip the new boot on the shaft with the small band clamp behind it, further down than normal at this point for room. Clean and repack the joint with grease. Now put the big band clamp over the boot and let the spindle back in. It has to be lined up good and flush with the center part of the joint where the splines go in to the retaining clip. While holding slight pressure in on the spindle use a small screwdriver or pick to press the clip into the groove on the shaft and it should pop in to place. Then throw some more grease in the boot and pull it into place over the axle joint and clamp the band clamps tight. Put the control arm back in place and don't tighten the bolt til she is sitting on her wheels for proper bushing positioning. Then hey look, you just did a boot replacement without even taking the axle nut loose or having to press the joint out of the spindle!
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  #19  
Old 08-06-2010, 07:17 PM
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I've had to change a few sets of bearings from the collar nut not being properly tightened and letting the bearing slack out and start grinding... Yet more cases where paying less ended up costing more.
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You make something idiotproof, they'll make a better idiot


You think professional is expensive, just wait until you pay for amateur.

Never let your sense of morals prevent you from doing what is right.

Examine what is said, not who speaks.

X5 pics

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2003 4.6is
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  #20  
Old 01-03-2011, 01:37 PM
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Weasel, following your advice, but stuck....
I do the following:
1) unbolt the control arm (the straight arm) at the end closer to the engine.
2) swing out the whole assembly by hand and afix with something firmly
3) remove outer boot clamps and cut off the outer boot.
4) grab the driveaxle firmy with vice grips and pry the shaft out of the CV joint against the force of the retaining C-clip.
5) wipe off grease, install new clamp, boot, clamp and C-clip.
6) while applying pressure to push axle back into CV joint, use a good sized screwdriver and poke at the C clip until it snaps in.
7) Apply the grease from the packet and then tighten clamps.
8) put on tie rod and only tighten it once vehicle weight is on the front wheels.

I did one side successfully. Once I got the hang of it.I had to grip the axle with vice grips in the narrow part of the axle you see in the pics above. Then use a large prybar and a large metal object to lever the axle out of the CV joint.
Driver's Side out:


I got confident and went to passenger side, and it wont snap out like the driver side did.
I wish I could remove the C clip somehow without having to force it out of the CV joint.

Can't get passenger side out yet....:



Any tips for snapping the axle out?
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