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#11
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I remember in the 80s, I had a TH350 rebuilted, and they had to use what they call a 'case saver'. I'm wondering if cases got dammaged when bearings or parts break. |
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#12
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Impressive. Did u buy the rebuilt kit from the ZF website?
__________________
01 4.4 P5 card hacked 'our curr€ncy, your problem' Bavarian Motor Wrong : |
#13
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Great post and great work my man!
Respect to you sir. |
#14
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To answer a few things above - the marks/reflection you see inside the case are machining marks from manufacture. See the long vertical slot? That's one of the keyways (there's an identical keyway directly opposite but tough to see) that the "D" & "E" clutch housing keys to. See attached pics of that assy with the corresponding "keys" mating to those slots. The area to which you refer has no spinning parts associated with it; the "D" & "E" clutches slide in and are a snug fit, but fixed in place.
I ordered my parts from CT Powertrain http://www.ctpowertrain.com/ I see from the web page something is going on with the online ordering. Probably a good thing 'cause the website ordering was really clunky. I've called them a time or 2 when confirming the ZF part number for the bearing. The kit, etc. they sent was OEM ZF parts, so I guess that could be ordered about anywhere that sells the stuff. But, this is the only place that had the ZF manual I wanted right on the website for click & buy. Doesn't mean somewhere else doesn't, but that's how I ended up buying everything through them. FYI: My original order confirmation - CT POWERTRAIN PRODUCTS Items 1 ZF5HP24 BMW JAGUAR LAND ROVER RWD OEM ZF REPAIR MANUAL @ $65.00 = $65.00 1 ZF5HP24 OEM ZF REBUILD KIT BMW JAGUAR LAND ROVER 95-ON @ $365.00 = $365.00 1 ZF5HP24 OEM VALVE BODY KIT ZF LIFE 2 5HP24VBK BMW JAG @ $179.99 = $179.99 Sub-Total: $609.99 Shipping: $20.05 (UPS Ground) Sales Tax: $0.00 CT POWERTRAIN PRODUCTS Total: $630.04 |
#15
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A few more pictures..............
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#16
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civdiv99, You know how to make a splash. Great first Post - a real "Topper". Clearly, you are the envy of many of us A5S owners. In my case I just this last week changed my fluid & filter at 120K mi. Used the exact stuff as on the green sticker on the bottom of the pan. Took 5 Litres of Pentosin ATF1. May I assume you used the same stuff? From Triangle in Yakima (I live just 13 miles up the road from you)?
Now I have joined "The Lurch" Club. No more rabbit starts for me until I get this solved. Research suggests I need to buy the valve body kit & replace that stuff. Then do the fluid & filter again. Should be a "Happy Tranny" after that... One would think. I had zero issues before the fluid change. First time I have ever changed Tranny Fluid & Filter and had the tranny performance decrease immediatly afterward! Strange stuff. Couldn't help but notice the HAHN plate frame on your X. I was talking with those folks about this very issue. Guess what their response was...disowned me. Said They do the same procedure (oil & filter only for a cool $500) and they have NEVER had lurching or slipping afterward. ( I did not swallow that one). Hey Civdiv, may I buy you a cup of coffee sometime? my smartfone email is [email protected] Best regards, SkidmarkX5 |
#17
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Excellent, extremely helpful and well written post. Thank you kindly again for the write-up. Makes me want to tear into mine just for the hell of it!
-Ben |
#18
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Great thread.
Thanks for sharing that. It does't make me feel like tearing in to it but if the need arises this will be very helpful. I have never worked on an AT (I did once replace a bearing in a 4-speed trans of my '75 2002) but it seems a project one could tackle given time and space.
92k on the '03 4.4i and it runs strong but one never knows what is next. Would you mind pointing out the bearing that failed (or posting a picture of it if it is not visible in one of the pics you posted before)? Thanks. LV |
#19
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Couple of replies to the above - Sure, I don't mind posting that pic; just realize the reason I didn't until asked is it came out out-of-focus.
In the close up of the bearing, see what looks like "slots" or grooves in the bearing race? Well, that used to be a race. Now it's a thin film of a shell breaking apart in pieces. The other picture, looking into the trans case, is the bearing as seen after removing the bell-housing and then pulling out the "a" & "b" clutches as an assembly. However, although it looks ok in the picture (it's a 10 yr old cheapie camera), if you study the picture you can possibly make out that the rollers are not shiney and smooth anymore. In person, it was obvious as soon as I pulled the clutches. The race shown in the close up photo comes out with the clutches. So when back in, that race is what the rollers you see run on. The rollers in that close up are visibly "tapered." They should have been nice cylindrical shape, not ground down at one end. They were worn to the point the race was about to disintegrate, and there was too much end play for the clutches just removed. Since the fluid pressurizes along shaft passages, the play reduces how much pressure can be maintained (pouring water into a bucket with a hole in it, so to speak). The part # in the ZF book (and other booklets avail w/internet search) was still a valid part number for ZF, so ordering was as easy as calling CT Powertrain and asking about ZF part # such & such. I was going to replace the other bearing you see in the close-up photo, but we couldn't cross the number I had with what the dude at CT could find. Since it was otherwise fine, I didn't go through any more steps. Had I been serious about replacing it, I'd have started trying other sources. When done, the shaft end play was right in the middle of the spec, so all good. Hahn's is ok from my experience. I've bought there before, and have dealt with one specific guy, but I understand he's gone now. When I bought the car, I listed a number of items I wanted them to fix - one of which was a SuspensionInactive fault which they said was "just a reset." It turned out to be the compressor assy, but they never even hinted at wanting to back out of the agreement, discuss unforeseen circumstances, whatever - they replaced the assembly with a smile, and detailed the X5 while they were at it. I'd not hesitate to pick up another BMW from them. I've been keeping an aye out for a '07~'08 era 550i. But, once the economy took a dive and they lost Chrysler at about the same time, they were telling me in conversation that it was service that was keeping them afloat. They are spendy and interested in keeping it thataway. I don't take stuff there for repair - between CarQuest (over on 2nd or 3rd or something like that), rockauto.com (NEW front axle assy at only $54 was even cheaper than replacing the CV boot), or just O'Reilly's, I find what I need. To me, CarQuest is about the best kept secret for OEM parts - although not everything. Example: My Mass Air Meter went out. I confirmed this with a multi-meter and went shopping. Dealer price $429. Bavarian Autosport was about $379. CarQuest was $179. The dude told me it was an OEM part when I ordered it; I was skeptical. Whaddy know - a new Bosch, even had the BMW part number on it, etc. This wasn't the first car I bought from them, and I'd not hesitate to pick up another BMW from them. I've been keeping an aye out for a '07~'08 era 550i. |
#20
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Going down the same road you did. It will take me a bit longer to get to the end. Sending you a PM to make contact.
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