What did you do to / for your E53 today??

[ajacks8]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

Thanks for that. As ajacks8 noted below, the depth is the problem. I came up with this solution which works pretty well. Covered it in faux suede. Would rather have them below the factory grilles, but honestly, this doesn't look too bad.









There would be volume no limitations with these mids. Gained a bunch after putting these in. Working on the door woofers and tweeters currently to complete the front stage.

Wow, CW. Those look great! I think I’ll have to tackle that for sure! Thanks for sharing pics!


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[jeffmiller]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

Thanks for that. As ajacks8 noted below, the depth is the problem. I came up with this solution which works pretty well. Covered it in faux suede. Would rather have them below the factory grilles, but honestly, this doesn't look too bad.

Love that! Solves a lot of problems all at once.

I'v been trying to research a way to fit under oem grill covers, but that might just be futile.

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by ajacks8

Wow, CW. Those look great! I think I’ll have to tackle that for sure! Thanks for sharing pics!

No problem. I can shoot you some shots of the template later if you're interested. Will put it on an 8.5x11 with a ruler so you can reproduce it.

The piece is made of 0.5" and beveled in the front towards the glass to match the down slope of the dash. That was the hardest part. Has an 1/8" roundover on top and has a 45 degree bevel on the bottom to allow it to wrap over the factory dash part and look more clean.

[ajacks8]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

No problem. I can shoot you some shots of the template later if you're interested. Will put it on an 8.5x11 with a ruler so you can reproduce it.

The piece is made of 0.5" and beveled in the front towards the glass to match the down slope of the dash. That was the hardest part. Has an 1/8" roundover on top and has a 45 degree bevel on the bottom to allow it to wrap over the factory dash part and look more clean.

I smell group-buy???


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[Henn28]

That looks very OEM. Really nice work.

A somewhat related question for the group: I don’t want to risk having a PWM power source for my radio and back up camera install so I think I’m going to go with the relay option many have used here. I’ll tap into the tailgate fuse for power, and the back up lights for the trigger. It doesn’t matter if the trigger is PWM, does it?

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by ajacks8

I smell group-buy???

Oh, sorry, I must have broken wind. I don't want to admit how long it took to make the 2 that I made. Best you guys are getting is a template.

Originally Posted by Henn28

That looks very OEM. Really nice work.

It doesn’t matter if the trigger is PWM, does it?

Thanks. It was the only way those speakers were going to fit in that hole without removing the windshield and cutting into the factory speaker box. That was obviously NOT going to happen. LOL, though it was still fairly annoying to get all the screws in place with the limited working area.

Originally Posted by Henn28

It doesn’t matter if the trigger is PWM, does it?

It depends on how much PWM the reverse lights get sent and how much your relay requires to trigger itself. If the PWM is enough to trigger your relay even when the reverse lights aren't on, you're reverse cam will never turn off. I'd hook up the relay trigger to the reverse light before fully installing/wiring it and test it with key on position 2 (or start engine) and with parking lights on for desired function.

I forget, you are installing a Kenwood (or other name brand) head unit? Or an Android?

[Henn28]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

It depends on how much PWM the reverse lights get sent and how much your relay requires to trigger itself. If the PWM is enough to trigger your relay even when the reverse lights aren't on, you're reverse cam will never turn off. I'd hook up the relay trigger to the reverse light before fully installing/wiring it and test it with key on position 2 (or start engine) and with parking lights on for desired function.

I forget, you are installing a Kenwood (or other name brand) head unit? Or an Android?

That makes sense to me. Will do….it’s a Kenwood unit and a basic Boyo backup camera. Both the Kenwood and the Boyo wiring have trigger wires to be powered. I know the Kenwood will need a trigger, but not sure about the Boyo trigger wire, which comes out of the rca jack at the camera side. It says “optional” in the instructions.

[ajacks8]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

Oh, sorry, I must have broken wind. I don't want to admit how long it took to make the 2 that I made. Best you guys are getting is a template.

Had to give it a shot, CW! Can I ask if you have OR gave consideration to chopping up the original grills. IF the speaker cone resides directly beneath the factory grill cutout (and I don’t know that it does) then cutting a concentric hole to size and recovering the top of the factory piece seems like it might be a little bit easier to work with given that the factory clips and slope of cover are pre-existing. Just a thought I slept on last night and would value your feedback on…Please.

[Henn28]

Originally Posted by Henn28

That makes sense to me. Will do….it’s a Kenwood unit and a basic Boyo backup camera. Both the Kenwood and the Boyo wiring have trigger wires to be powered. I know the Kenwood will need a trigger, but not sure about the Boyo trigger wire, which comes out of the rca jack at the camera side. It says “optional” in the instructions.

Update***
the Kenwood is in. I rigged up the relay per posts on this forum and once I got the settings right in the Kenwood the camera works great. The lines are static, which stinks, but beyond a camera with a gyro, I couldn't find a unit that could somehow do dynamic lines. Not sure why as I would think that it would just take tapping into another wire somewhere in the dash.

I'm shocked to say that almost everything worked 4.0 on first power-up and after getting some settings right in the kenwood. Sirius, backup camera, bluetooth, etc. Even the steering wheel volume and channel buttons work thanks to the Crux unit. It sounds a little flat on certain inputs to me, so I need to get smart on the equalizer function and perhaps the crossover settings in the Kenwood? I know the BMW unit has crossovers set, so maybe the different settings are at odds?

I chose to run the two USB lines into the ashtray for the time being but would like to make a more permanent installation into the dash at some point. Although I can close the ashtray lid and out of sight, out of mind. Cant get much cleaner than that for a non-smoker.

I drilled a hole in the large plastic aftermarket frame and popped the mic into it for the time being. I need to enlarge it a bit so the mic can fit more securely and secure it with some JB Weld perhaps - if I can do it cleanly. I can always order another frame if it ends up looking home made.

I just did a temporary clean up of the wiring, taped it together where needed and plan on driving it for a week or two to make sure everything stays working. Then I'll tape up the connections, secure the bundles, etc. and clean up/finalize the install. Pics when I have a chance to load them.

[workingonit]

As I've said before, my "new" X5 is just a back-up vehicle, mainly for carrying more people than our other vehicles can (they're two-seaters or two doors), or for foul weather transport (AWD). So, I haven't driven it but three times since mid-May, and only now have tried the rear wiper/washer system.

The rear wiper needed the fuse (#81) pushed-in to operate, the nozzle needed opening up with a needle, and a new pump also. I bought a cheap one from Amazon for $10, and it is weak, but sufficient (though I think I hooked it up to the front hose). Problem now is that I can't just use the front wiper/washers without triggering the rear system, or vice-versa.

My X5 doesn't have rain sensor or headlamp washers, so it should work as described in the owner's manual. Perhaps the contacts in the stalk have corroded from disuse by previous owners? I had a rotary stalk that did that on a borrowed Chevy truck once, and it started working correctly after I twisted it a couple of dozen times to make good contact.

Not a big deal, and I can use it as-is, unless someone can tell me a reason for both front and rear to fire at the same time.