What did you do to / for your E53 today??

[Effduration]

#1 - pry that black clip off - it then slides into corresponding part in door panel.
Don’t install door panel without it.

#2 - don’t need the lock mechanism..maybe you can tie strap it

#3 - you probably need a new handle, they’re cheap

#5 - glue back the tan plastic piece with RTV or gasket maker…I clamp the glued plastic to the door panel overnight.

[Bdc101]

For #1, you can install the door panel without it - but you shouldn't.



If you need a new one they are only a couple of bucks from FCP or Pelican (just ordered one last week, see: beginning of this post)

[jeffmiller]

Originally Posted by Effduration

#1 - pry that black clip off - it then slides into corresponding part in door panel.
Don’t install door panel without it.

#2 - don’t need the lock mechanism..maybe you can tie strap it

#3 - you probably need a new handle, they’re cheap

#5 - glue back the tan plastic piece with RTV or gasket maker…I clamp the glued plastic to the door panel overnight.

#1 - I'll have another go at removing it.

#2 - I've seated and reseated it 100 times. No dice. I can live w/o for a little while if I can just get the dang door carrier installed.

#3 - Yep, I'll buy a new one. See if this one can make it a couple of weeks.

#4 - I swapped the cable from the old broken door carrier.

#5 - Ordered some RTV.

Any thoughts on getting door carrier aligned properly? I completely removed the new one multiple times to see if something is causing mis-alignment but I can't see or feel anything.

Thanks!

[Salty B.]

Did the windshield repair attempt with a Permatex kit, but it didn't fill in the spider cracks around the impact. Better, though.

Tried that Cerakote on the dead black trim on one side, and it's definitely better, but kinda blotchy. I'll try another pass later.

Did the first oil change after adding a can of LiquiMoly engine flush and letting it idle for 10min. That shit came out BLACK. 7.5L of LiquiMoly 5W-40 in the pan now... jiminy. Filled up the oil extractor, which I highly recommend vs wriggling my old ass under the thing and hoping the gush of hot oil doesn't spill out over the pan. Too bad I can't use it on my F30 because some idiot in Munich decided that a sensor in the pan would be better and cheaper than a dipstick, which have existed for at least 100 years... SO. DUMB.

[Bdc101]

For Jeff miller's #2, does anybody know if you can buy a replacement connector for those and simply take it apart and put the pins/wires in a new connector? I recently broke one of those as well, and I just don't take it off anymore. If I ever take it off I doubt it will go back in.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by jeffmiller

Third weekend of attempting to replace door carrier. Here's all the crap I broke and still haven't successfully replaced it.

No matter what I do I am unable to align the new carrier so that I can screw the Allen bolt into the lock cylinder unit, the holes just won't align. And it's that Allen bolt that can easily fall into the abyss, so have to pay super-duper attention to it.

Now presenting...my incompetence:

So the main problem with getting DHC to align are either the front square screw alignment screw spacer is too tight or the spring for the handle retract sticks out too far. I've had to cut off some of the spring on either side. Oh the other side it will catch the glass.

I think at least once I had to not use the square spacer around the front screw. But almost always leave the front screw pretty loose until you get the back screw started.

I've had the broken nub problem and resolved I can't remember if i used JB weld or a small screw (if you drill a 7/64 drill into plastic it's the left size for a 3mm screw. A round head screw might be the perfect size to replace that bump.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by Salty B.

Did the windshield repair attempt with a Permatex kit, but it didn't fill in the spider cracks around the impact. Better, though.

Tried that Cerakote on the dead black trim on one side, and it's definitely better, but kinda blotchy. I'll try another pass later.

Did the first oil change after adding a can of LiquiMoly engine flush and letting it idle for 10min. That shit came out BLACK. 7.5L of LiquiMoly 5W-40 in the pan now... jiminy. Filled up the oil extractor, which I highly recommend vs wriggling my old ass under the thing and hoping the gush of hot oil doesn't spill out over the pan. Too bad I can't use it on my F30 because some idiot in Munich decided that a sensor in the pan would be better and cheaper than a dipstick, which have existed for at least 100 years... SO. DUMB.

Get this! American made. It's a drain plug with a valve and a hose. Drain the oil directly into a jug for recycle!

You can easily stop and start so you can fill into two gallon jugs and never use a drain pain.

Not cheap! Worth every penny!

I used a vacuum on the fill port to pull the old plug and change it and I didn't even have to use a drain pain [sic] even one last time.

I did on my wife's car a few months ago, adding to my e70 week.

[Bdc101]

I actually worked on my car yesterday - trying to diag the keyless entry.
I had one diamond key that worked up until a year or so ago. The second key never worked for keyless entry since we bought the car in 2016. Tried reinitializing both keys, but neither would would do anything.
Instead of replacing the batteries next, I remembered I had found a broken wire in my trunk harness for the third brake light a couple of years ago, so yesterday I traced the wire for the FZV antenna amplifier (which is what detects the 315MHz keyless entry signal) to check that it was powered. I had a hunch that that wire was broken as well, but it turns out it has 12 volts and the fuse was not blown. So I ordered a new/used FZV module off ebay, and will try that before replacing the batteries in my keys.

(It is powered by fuse 86 in the trunk, by the way - not fuse 49 like it says on BMWGM5.com)


Somebody posted where you can buy brand new diamond keys for $150 or something like that - I am at the point where I will spend or do almost anything to get it working again.

[Clavurion]

Originally Posted by Bdc101

I actually worked on my car yesterday - trying to diag the keyless entry.
I had one diamond key that worked up until a year or so ago. The second key never worked for keyless entry since we bought the car in 2016. Tried reinitializing both keys, but neither would would do anything.
Instead of replacing the batteries next, I remembered I had found a broken wire in my trunk harness for the third brake light a couple of years ago, so yesterday I traced the wire for the FZV antenna amplifier (which is what detects the 315MHz keyless entry signal) to check that it was powered. I had a hunch that that wire was broken as well, but it turns out it has 12 volts and the fuse was not blown. So I ordered a new/used FZV module off ebay, and will try that before replacing the batteries in my keys.

(It is powered by fuse 86 in the trunk, by the way - not fuse 49 like it says on BMWGM5.com)


Somebody posted where you can buy brand new diamond keys for $150 or something like that - I am at the point where I will spend or do almost anything to get it working again.

For test purposes you could use any E53 key if there is some local who could help with this.

[andrewwynn]

I had symptoms of bad antenna. I even eat able to use fob ONCE every time I slammed the trunk.

Final result: bad key.

Get a new key.

It was worth every penny. I bought from the place you mention saved enough I got a proper key and a valet key same price as one from dealer.

You mentioned one key never worked so most likely that one already had bad solder joints.

Mine both did at purchase. Symptom: I could open door with either if I immediately attempted unlock after locking.

I reflowed the solder on both keys. Remote worked on both until I lost one and on the remaining for a couple years. I was going to re reflow the broken one after I got the new key but a deer totaled the car before I got the chance.

I kept the under a year old key as a necklace. Sent the non working key with the totaled car.