What did you do to / for your E53 today??

[Effduration]

Plus 1 on a heat gun..

More heat than a blow drier

Totally reactivates old butyl

[TriX5]

So, a friend of mine left these shores to a RHD country and I picked up his 2014 535d X-drive M-sport. At 50k miles and near perfect condition, I just could not let it slip. A new stable mate!

The E53 which was running well for the past 18 months, promptly threw its toys out of the crib! A whole raft of noises inside and out, coolant leak, engine issues, suspension problems, the lot!

So, I have been tinkering for about three weeks. Installed a new fuel pump in the original frame after macgyvering something to replace the rubber bumpers between the two frame parts. They were rockhard and disintegrated when I tried to disassemble) At the same time a fresh fuel filter went in. The ignition coils were the originals and I ordered the exact same Bremis from FCP. Car runs a lot better, it would stutter badly after warming up, which I believe was just the coils. not the pump.

Front end creaked terribly. The tie-rods were also the originals, so a new set went in and did the thrust bushings again. One of the bushings was already starting to break after 20k-ish. The lower control arms are next as the ball joint boots have cracked and they started to creak badly around the straight ahead position.

Glued the headliner back to the sunroof frame at the rear edge. Still have to glue and tuck the fabric back were it belongs. This had been a source of a horrible crackling noise inside for a couple of weeks. Still have to figure out a bad squeak in the drivers seat, somewhere low on the back rest.

For the rear suspension I have a pile of stuff to put in. RR wheel bearing has been noisy for a long while. So, new wheel bearings will go in along with lower control arm bushings, ball joints and integral links as well as adjustable upper control arms. A set of Arnott air springs should fix a new sagging problem, it has started to be low on one side in the mornings.....

I have an intermittent coolant leak.... occasionally it will drop a cup of coolant overnight but not every night. I suspect the coolant pump but not had a chance to pull the splash guard. Under the radiator it is bone dry, so likely from front of the block based on where the driveway is wet.
UPDATE: I went to put the front lower control arms in but first pulled the splash guard and the coolant pump has confessed to being the culprit of the incontinence.... :-)

Last winter we used this car a lot including a 1k round trip to Toronto in March. The rear Bridgestone winter tires were bald on the inside shoulders (not a problem on the Michelin summer tires so I think this is caused by the Blizzaks having an awful stiff carcass). So, I already mounted a replacement set of rear tires (Michein Alpin 5 , much better). The winters will go back on by Thanksgiving as it is still quite balmy here.

I never cease to be amazed how much stuff this car can throw at me to fix...

QUESTION, any reason I should not used my style 74 wheels on the 5-series for winter tires? (I know I will need a15mm spacer to compensate the offset difference.)


x

[wpoll]

Oil Service weekend...

With 270,000km on my '05 3.0D, the ZF 6HP26Z transmission is still working prettty well, on original fluid (except a couple of litres of ZF LG6 added when I changed the mechatronic seals, bridge seal and jump seals at ~200,000km). But it is starting to show indications of wear - the 2-1 slam is there (as always) but when cold it is holding second gear too long, then short shifts from third to fourth, bogging the engine. Fine once it's warmed up.

I've check the fluid level before now and it was correct - with no leaks - so I figured, what the hell - let's try something daft.

On Friday night, I put the car in the garage, on ramps and went to bed. Got up on Saturday and while the transmission was cold (and with the engine running) I dumped a whole bottle of ATP AT-205 in there...

Sealed it all back up and went for a 20km drive to warm the engine oil before chnaging that. Transmission was fine - no different (not that I expected it to be).

After a full oil service (man, diesels make the oil SO dirty! ) I didn't get a chance to drive the car again until today (Sunday).

The three or four trips I've made today (maybe 10-15km each) show the AT-205 is doing something - the transmission is shifting beautifully - not perfect but noticabely better than before. I expect as the AT-205 works it's magic on all the seals and the trans adaptations sort themselves out with the changing fluid pressures, it will continue to improve. Time will tell.

As part of every service, I use INPA to check (and clear) the error and info codes, test the aux fan and check out the selective mass adjustments and rotational conformity. All look near-perfect. Amazing for an 18-year old car with 270,000kms on it.

However, one minor code I've been seeing recently has me slightly puzzled...

===============================================
Variant: ZKE3_GM6 1 Error in error memory
Error registration 1 : 0x0095: Innenraumschutz: Sicherung oder Leitung

<<<<!!! Error accurances: 4

sporadischer Fehler
===============================================

Translated...

===============================================
Variant: ZKE3_GM6 1 Error in error memory
Error registration 1 : 0x0095: Interior protection: fuse or line

<<<<!!! Error accurances: 4

sporadic error
===============================================

I've researched this error and seen references to both the passengers door conrtrol module (PM BT) and the interior ultra-sonic system that is part of the DWA system.

Fault is not currently present but I expect it'll be back by the time of the next service. Anyone seen anything like this?

[zuvarak]

Originally Posted by wpoll

Oil Service weekend...

With 270,000km on my '05 3.0D, the ZF 6HP26Z transmission is still working prettty well, on original fluid (except a couple of litres of ZF LG6 added when I changed the mechatronic seals, bridge seal and jump seals at ~200,000km). But it is starting to show indications of wear - the 2-1 slam is there (as always) but when cold it is holding second gear too long, then short shifts from third to fourth, bogging the engine. Fine once it's warmed up.

I've check the fluid level before now and it was correct - with no leaks - so I figured, what the hell - let's try something daft.

On Friday night, I put the car in the garage, on ramps and went to bed. Got up on Saturday and while the transmission was cold (and with the engine running) I dumped a whole bottle of ATP AT-205 in there...

Sealed it all back up and went for a 20km drive to warm the engine oil before chnaging that. Transmission was fine - no different (not that I expected it to be).

After a full oil service (man, diesels make the oil SO dirty! ) I didn't get a chance to drive the car again until today (Sunday).

The three or four trips I've made today (maybe 10-15km each) show the AT-205 is doing something - the transmission is shifting beautifully - not perfect but noticabely better than before. I expect as the AT-205 works it's magic on all the seals and the trans adaptations sort themselves out with the changing fluid pressures, it will continue to improve. Time will tell.

As part of every service, I use INPA to check (and clear) the error and info codes, test the aux fan and check out the selective mass adjustments and rotational conformity. All look near-perfect. Amazing for an 18-year old car with 270,000kms on it.

However, one minor code I've been seeing recently has me slightly puzzled...

===============================================
Variant: ZKE3_GM6 1 Error in error memory
Error registration 1 : 0x0095: Innenraumschutz: Sicherung oder Leitung

<<<<!!! Error accurances: 4

sporadischer Fehler
===============================================

Translated...

===============================================
Variant: ZKE3_GM6 1 Error in error memory
Error registration 1 : 0x0095: Interior protection: fuse or line

<<<<!!! Error accurances: 4

sporadic error
===============================================

I've researched this error and seen references to both the passengers door conrtrol module (PM BT) and the interior ultra-sonic system that is part of the DWA system.

Fault is not currently present but I expect it'll be back by the time of the next service. Anyone seen anything like this?

Maybe your gearbox would benefit from a 6hp zip kit and a new valve body separator plate as well. 2-1 slam almost entirely disappeared after an oil change on mine. At almost 370k km, all those seals inside are still original, even though I did ask the shop to change them all when they did the oil change like 20k ago. They told me they forgot about them and just changed the oil..

Sometimes mine is holding 2nd gear too long as well, but I noticed it does it only when first decelerating from higher gears down to 2nd and having to accelerate again. Like coming to a roundabout. Shifts perfectly from a standstill without any hiccups so I wonder what's that about.

I've also got that same "interior protection" trouble code, however, I haven't looked into it yet..

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by zuvarak

Maybe your gearbox would benefit from a 6hp zip kit and a new valve body separator plate as well. ...

I figure such work - most likely a solenoid change - is in my future but at over $1k for the solenoids, I'm hoping to delay the task!

Originally Posted by zuvarak

Sometimes mine is holding 2nd gear too long as well, ... Like coming to a roundabout. Shifts perfectly from a standstill without any hiccups so I wonder what's that about.

Excactly - that's the behaviour... slowing down but not stopping, then pulling away... very annoying at speed-bumps, round-abouts and give ways etc.

Originally Posted by zuvarak

I've also got that same "interior protection" trouble code, however, I haven't looked into it yet..

Weird huh? Nothing is broken or not working in my case - at least not that I've noticed.

[Salty B.]

Frau Blücher sat parked for three weeks while I was on a work trip. She did NOT want to start this morning. Fired briefly but died. Crank crank crank. Crank crank crank. Crank crank crank. Shit! Crank crank crank. Eventually she coughed and farted to life and ran fine all day. I guess the fuel pressure dropped? My F30 will sit for 3-4-5 weeks at a time and starts immediately. No signs of a fuel leak. Any suggestions, other than don't let it sit parked for so long?

Anyway, replaced the AUC sensor as it had thrown a code in the past, and removed the LH xenon and hi-beam bulb to let the housing dry out. Some moisture has condensed on the inside of the cover. I sealed it up with new butyl when I replaced the cover a few months ago so I'm not sure why it's getting damp in there.

I think the xenon bulb is dying though as it's much more dim than the other one. Those things are expensive! I have a spare from the old RH housing that I replaced after destroying the old one trying to get the clouded cover off; for some reason the LH housing had a butyl sealant that separated with heat, but the RH one had RTV sealing that absolutely would not let go. I found a replacement on the bay of E for cheap and it's fine.

Went to the pull-yer-part which got a '01 E53 3.0 in a few days ago, but someone had already pulled the two front door panels and the DLAs. I need a left-side one. I pulled the left rear DLA anyway as mine is dead, so now I have two junkyard ones that may or may not work. I just haven't pulled that panel off yet. THe donor had the rear door roll-up shades which made removing the door panel a little difficult.

My car has those shades and they seem to be made of dust and gossamer, any tricks to getting the panel off without damaging the shades? What adhesive would anyone recommend to glue the panel fastener blocks back to the panel? Most of those fell out when I removed the donor one. I'd imagine mine will do the same once I get around to doing that.

[LA02MAX]

Originally Posted by Salty B.

Frau Blücher sat parked for three weeks while I was on a work trip. She did NOT want to start this morning. Fired briefly but died. Crank crank crank. Crank crank crank. Crank crank crank. Shit! Crank crank crank. Eventually she coughed and farted to life and ran fine all day. I guess the fuel pressure dropped? My F30 will sit for 3-4-5 weeks at a time and starts immediately. No signs of a fuel leak. Any suggestions, other than don't let it sit parked for so long?

Anyway, replaced the AUC sensor as it had thrown a code in the past, and removed the LH xenon and hi-beam bulb to let the housing dry out. Some moisture has condensed on the inside of the cover. I sealed it up with new butyl when I replaced the cover a few months ago so I'm not sure why it's getting damp in there.

I think the xenon bulb is dying though as it's much more dim than the other one. Those things are expensive! I have a spare from the old RH housing that I replaced after destroying the old one trying to get the clouded cover off; for some reason the LH housing had a butyl sealant that separated with heat, but the RH one had RTV sealing that absolutely would not let go. I found a replacement on the bay of E for cheap and it's fine.

Went to the pull-yer-part which got a '01 E53 3.0 in a few days ago, but someone had already pulled the two front door panels and the DLAs. I need a left-side one. I pulled the left rear DLA anyway as mine is dead, so now I have two junkyard ones that may or may not work. I just haven't pulled that panel off yet. THe donor had the rear door roll-up shades which made removing the door panel a little difficult.

My car has those shades and they seem to be made of dust and gossamer, any tricks to getting the panel off without damaging the shades? What adhesive would anyone recommend to glue the panel fastener blocks back to the panel? Most of those fell out when I removed the donor one. I'd imagine mine will do the same once I get around to doing that.

First of all, love the name Frau Blücher (neeeeeiiiigh)

I read a post on here recently about someone's fuel pump dying and coming back to life, briefly. Do you know how old yours is? Might be time. It doesn't take long at all for fuel pressure to build - after I replaced my fuel pump it started in maybe 2 or 3 cranks.

There was one piece on my door panel that separated when I removed it, and I glued it back with JB weld.... that ain't coming apart again.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by Salty B.

Frau Blücher sat parked for three weeks while I was on a work trip. She did NOT want to start this morning.

Any suggestions, other than don't let it sit parked for so long?

Exact symptoms of FPR failure. Confirm with fuel pressure gauge left on a few hours. Should hold 10-15 psi overnight.

On the E53 usually this is just the tiny o-ring between FPR and filter had failed. I'd replace that before the whole assembly.

Originally Posted by Salty B.

Anyway, replaced the AUC sensor as it had thrown a code in the past, and removed the LH xenon and hi-beam bulb to let the housing dry out. Some moisture has condensed on the inside of the cover. I sealed it up with new butyl when I replaced the cover a few months ago so I'm not sure why it's getting damp in there.

Most light housings have a vent. If not you did the right thing to make one taking out the lamps but you need to heat the assembly to get out the moisture you can use the likes of IR (Quartz) heater or even black garbage bag in direct sunlight you want to get it up to about 150 for 4-5 hours.

You can remove the whole unit and put in an oven that goes that low (like keep warm mode)

Originally Posted by Salty B.

I think the xenon bulb is dying though as it's much more dim than the other one. Those things are expensive! I have a spare from the old RH housing that I replaced after destroying the old one trying to get the clouded cover off; for some reason the LH housing had a butyl sealant that separated with heat, but the RH one had RTV sealing that absolutely would not let go. I found a replacement on the bay of E for cheap and it's fine.

If somebody glued with silicone you will have to cut if off. Permaseal from the factory will be butyl

Do yourself a favor and get a pair of hid 3400k from Amazon. I paid $40 for the highest rated pair I could find back in 2015 the first fix I did on my new to me 2001. If you are even noticing any color shift it's completely end of life and 30-60% loss of brightness.

Replace as a pair and put the brighter of the two into your spares bin.

The knock off Amazon pair I bought lasted longer than the e53.

Originally Posted by Salty B.

Went to the pull-yer-part which got a '01 E53 3.0 in a few days ago, but someone had already pulled the two front door panels and the DLAs.

My car has those shades and they seem to be made of dust and gossamer, any tricks to getting the panel off without damaging the shades? What adhesive would anyone recommend to glue the panel fastener blocks back to the panel? Most of those fell out when I removed the donor one. I'd imagine mine will do the same once I get around to doing that.

It takes about 90 minutes to rebuild a DLA. Find my awr-fix thread on the topic. Replace the brush end of the motors with a donor motor from Amazon.

JB Kwik might be best bet for the hidden fasteners; maybe take some old single use pins for alignment to get into position.

It's not difficult to remove the shades which must be removed before the door card. There's one screw and one hidden spring fastener. Find a YouTube video for the method.

[Serb404]

new door clips on driver side, ordered a pack of 40 from amazon that are OEM and now no more annoying clicking while driving

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by Salty B.

My car has those shades and they seem to be made of dust and gossamer, any tricks to getting the panel off without damaging the shades? What adhesive would anyone recommend to glue the panel fastener blocks back to the panel? Most of those fell out when I removed the donor one. I'd imagine mine will do the same once I get around to doing that.

Permatex Black. Best thing I've found for repairing the door panel brackets. Here's a quick video I made showing the repair of my E53 panels. Never had one pull back off when having to inevitably go back in for a regulator, DHC, or litany of other reasons to pull a BMW door panel.

Quick tip: BMW E53 X5 Door Panel Mounts Repair