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The air hammer with tapered punch is amazing to get them out of the hub. Would recommend. Myself .. I have everything apart. The front subframe is ready to come down. I'm just not sure about this strange front bar under the front bumper with these two pipes sticking out into the subframe. It looks like it's going to be a problem. I'm currently multitasking between hammering the lower ball joints out of the steering knuckles and degreasing the engine with the accessories and oil filter housing off. That engine degreaser stuff works really well. I've been sleeping on that just using brake clean the entire time. The stuff is awesome. It's been a tennis match between the smell of the degreaser and the noise of the hammering,. These ball joints are an absolute nightmare. Fortunately, all the bolts came out fairly easily they're just super seized in the knuckle. Worst part of the car to work on. I have the ears all pried out and folded down but I can't get the middle thing to even move yet, day 2.
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'05 E53 3.0 6mt. Sterling gray metallic / black. 132k daily driver '96 E36 328is 5mt. Alpine white / gray. 160k restoration project '17 F30 340ix 6mt. Black sapphire metallic / black. 80k missing engine |
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I think a few different makes came up in Amazon, but this one worked great for me and didn’t break the bank. I also bought a universal 3 leg puller that could spread to fit over thr e53 hub and press the axle out, and can’t find it now. Hence the drift and hammer method. I would like to find that tool tho as it would have saved 15 min or so of time and the other side boot isn’t in great shape. Is the thing you are referring to this? 51717007787, referred to as Underride Protection in RealOEM? If so I think it’s only job is to be the think the plastic splash guard screws into at the front of the car. I’m down to using zip ties to hold my splash guard on as the threads on the bar have mostly rusted out. Is it attached to the subframe? I thought it was bolted to the frame rails and stayed with the car when I dropped the subframe a bit to get the diff in. Those ball joints can suck. I ended up taking both front hubs to a local suspension shop and having them pressed out. Dropped them off, got lunch and they were done before I finished chow. Might be worth a look. I’m sure there is a BMW tool for the job.
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Current Original owner 2002 E53 X5 4.4i to 4.6i swap 2025 G06 X5 50e Former 1972 Audi Fox 1986 Saab 900S 1996 BMW Z3 1998 BMW E36 M3 Sedan 2004 BMW E46 M3 2006 Audi A3 Quatro 1993 Mopar 318 Jeep Grand Cherokee 2015 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee Last edited by Henn28; 04-25-2024 at 07:52 AM. |
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Installed an eBay front left door seal. Broke some skin under a fingernail. It hurts. I'm surprised how well the seal fit. It's identical to the OEM seal. High quality. It was a single length unlike OEM seals. I hid the split under the door pinch seam cover. The dash and pinch seam are so tight, it took me an hour to install it.
Edit: I'll take side by side pics of both seals to post. Plus a link to the seller. I'll inspect the other three door seals. I'm sure the driver side was the worst.
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'06 X5 3.0i - bought @143,123 miles (12/26/20) Last edited by X5chemist; 04-25-2024 at 08:49 AM. |
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Current Original owner 2002 E53 X5 4.4i to 4.6i swap 2025 G06 X5 50e Former 1972 Audi Fox 1986 Saab 900S 1996 BMW Z3 1998 BMW E36 M3 Sedan 2004 BMW E46 M3 2006 Audi A3 Quatro 1993 Mopar 318 Jeep Grand Cherokee 2015 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee |
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I did the front tension struts and ball joints last year... I feel your pain Factory6speed... one of the worst jobs I have had to do on my X. Mine were shot though and it made a huge improvement in ride.
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2003 3.0 5MT Topasblau Purchased in 2016 and surprisingly still running 2012 35d Platingrau |
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Replaced the power steering reservoir... did not know there's a filter in that thing which after 23 years and almost 200,000mi was probably a little clogged. PS pump started making growly noises awhile back so we'll see if this helps.
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2001 E53 M54 5MT Oxford green over crusty black leather
2014 F30 N55 6MT mineral gray over red leather |
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Got the front subframe out and pan off. A little carbon-y in there. A tiny bit of sludge in the bottom of the pan but fairly clean for 130k. Could be better. I'll probably try a can of that engine flush soon. I'll clean off what I can here. I rotated it around and the cylinder walls all look perfect. Pretty large job, lots of cleaning ahead for reassembly. The gasket was changed previously it looks like. There was no RTV at all on the front and rear cover seams which is exactly where it was leaking from, like really bad. The flywheel is dry so it is not the rear main like I thought, just the pan everywhere. I did elect to remove the front bumper and get that front pipe bar thing out of the way just to make dealing with the subframe easier. It's held on with 4 13mm nuts you can almost see and get to through the front grill, right above the brake ducts. I tried getting to them without removing the bumper but ultimately had to take it. I'm not sure how difficult it would be with that bar in. The guy said it's hard you have to twist the subframe into it. To lower it, I used a floor jack on the front part (the piece you normally jack up), and a second floor jack in laterally under the passenger side, with a length of 4x4 wood block balanced on the pad and ratchet strapped down, to hold and lower the rear left right section. It worked well. Except then somehow the front two posts didn't lower at all when I released the jack. There's a little metal bushing in there that was of course rusted, and I can't believe it, but some rust was strong enough to hold all that up. Eventually I got a pry bar between those posts and the frame and it came down nicely. It was puzzling, like I missed some bolts. No, rust can hold 150lbs. Friday I did get the passenger side ball joint out finally. The small pointy punch was the MVP. It allowed more swing with the hammer, more momentum. The driver's side one is in progress. Also did / doing: Oil filter housing gasket kit Belts, tensioners, pulleys (minus crank pulley) Water pump, thermostat Fan clutch, fan, shroud Radiator (replacing original 2004!) Upper and lower rad hoses, coolant tank Power steering lines and tank Front axle seals Front lower wishbones, tension struts, ball joints Spark plugs. Found massive amount of oil on threads of #5 and a little on 4 and 6, ordered valve cover gasket. Next Saturday morning I need to use it to haul some stuff. So I have 6 days to get this all done. Don't know if I'm going to make it. Quote:
Yes that's the piece. It's not attached to the subframe, but pokes into it and looks like it would be in the way / possibly create a struggle out of it. Maybe not, but I didn't want to struggle with something heavy.
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'05 E53 3.0 6mt. Sterling gray metallic / black. 132k daily driver '96 E36 328is 5mt. Alpine white / gray. 160k restoration project '17 F30 340ix 6mt. Black sapphire metallic / black. 80k missing engine Last edited by Factory6speed; 04-28-2024 at 04:48 AM. |
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Well the good news is, I'm gonna be around for a while. The bad news is, now I have two problems:
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2003 3.0 5MT Topasblau Purchased in 2016 and surprisingly still running 2012 35d Platingrau |
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