What did you do to / for your E53 today??

[Ricky Bobby]

For the Zionsville unit? Nope. OE radiators are cheaper, but the Zionsville is a bitchin unit for sure

[sandbagger]

if you can find a Mishimoto for it I would not hesitate, put one in my M3 back in 2008 and has been flawless!!

[jsoto]

Can't recall the costs, but the Zions is like 4X the cost of OE....and the OE on mine was changed around 95K just because...

I'd say take that extra money and use it for the hoses and such.
And or, if you're lucky like me, save the extra coin for the unexpected like the high pressure steering hose, I replaced 2X within 15K miles if my memory recalls. I was not a happy camper spending $$ on this $$$ hose

[TiAgX5]

Originally Posted by sandbagger

if you can find a Mishimoto for it I would not hesitate, put one in my M3 back in 2008 and has been flawless!!

I checked Mishimoto first, they only produce rads for 1 & 3 series BMWs.

I plan on design/fabbing an aluminium coolant tank in the spring (CNC machined fittings/TIGed tank/flush sight glass level window (PresSure Products, pic below)/low pressure BMW cap).

[sandbagger]

that is a bummer, they make a great product
Need to email them and see if they are willing or going to in the future?

Originally Posted by TiAgX5

I checked Mishimoto first, they only produce rads for 1 & 3 series BMWs.

[garrett.fell]

I started my rear suspension overhaul project. Got the upper control arm and one guide link done this evening!!




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[g300d]

Aux Fan died. Put in a new Behr.

Still not 100% so put in a new Sachs fan clutch.

Ahhh, BMW cooling systems...

[garrett.fell]

Originally Posted by garrett.fell

I started my rear suspension overhaul project. Got the upper control arm and one guide link done this evening!!




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One side finished up. Maybe I can knock the other side out today. Just need to torque a couple more things then I can release the "preload" I have on the suspension (via floor jack) to simulate ride height (18.5 inches from center of wheel to fender lip).

I'll tell you - getting that lower integral to play nice was not fun. I think I learned the secret after an hour or so of fiddling. You cannot have the suspension arm and the balljoint 100% aligned and ready for the long bolt to slip through. If you do there is not enough room for the integral link to slip-in. Things get more rigid and tight and it just won't go in. It looks like it might, but it won't.

Here are my observations after 110k miles (driver side only)

Integral link - looks okay!
Upper control-arm. Looks okay. Rubber bushing does look slightly distorted though. Just a wee bit. Ball joint side seems okay.
Guidelink - looks okay
Ball joint - worn out. A little floppy and can feel the looseness (click click) in the joint.


Note - that balljoint removal/installation tool is awesome!


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[Ricky Bobby]

Thanks for the updates Garrett, you're doing great! I'm due to do these parts next year, my miles are low but my right rear is already out of spec with camber and at the age of the parts anything with rubber bushings or ball joints is going to be worn.

Interesting on the integral link, I'm wondering if letting the air out of the spring would give more wiggle room to play

[garrett.fell]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

Thanks for the updates Garrett, you're doing great! I'm due to do these parts next year, my miles are low but my right rear is already out of spec with camber and at the age of the parts anything with rubber bushings or ball joints is going to be worn.

Interesting on the integral link, I'm wondering if letting the air out of the spring would give more wiggle room to play

Air suspension has been drained! (Which is a piece of cake btw)

Maybe someone else with more experience with this repair can chime-in but my experience here what I found

If you install the integral link first - it's difficult to slip the suspension arm past the balljoint to line it up. It'll end up hitting the rubber boot and that's not good. The ball joint needs to pivot slightly to allow the arm to pass over it. Maybe if I had a lift it'd be easier? I am working in contorted positions on the floor

The other side of the ball-joint has a little raised collar portion that fits into the end of the integral link. Once the suspension arm is aligned with the balljoint - the balljoint can't pivot anymore which causes issues with getting that collar to fit in the IL squarely The IL needs to swing (arc) into its final place. I found its about 1mm or less too much interference.

The solution was to start the alignment process on the ball-joint suspension arm-side, but just slightly so the balljoint can still pivot. Don't align the holes. Then start the integral link side - then you can coax the mess together with a plastic mallet. I know I fiddled with this for more than an hour last night before figuring that out

It's a little hard to explain without pictures.






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