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“Resealed/rebuilt” vacuum pump today and replaced oil pressure temp sensor. Trying to keep my mind off feeling unwell. Fever and headache/body aches that won’t go away. Got tested yesterday and waiting to see if I got the ‘Rona. Figured I could sweat it out in the garage. |
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I did it too.... after resetting the factory metal on those tail lights and plastic welding them more times over the years than I can count.... I went with Spyder Customs replacement tail lights and absolutely love them! They are (in my option) a minor upgrade in appearance and the very best part, I haven’t had to screw with them once since they were installed which is absolutely awesome!
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a proper fix is not too difficult; you need to drill out the plastic rivets, put in a proper spacer and replace the rivets with some self-tapping screws:
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...3&share_type=t the problem is steel is a terrible contact yet that's what BMW chose to use; it gets dirty and high resistance, it heats up enough to melt the plastic and the spring pressure presses the contact into the plastic reducing the pressure increasing the resistance and accelerating the damage. I think most people try to fix this by either stretching the springs on the bulb holder to increase the pressure (which just pushes harder on the soft plastic), or they add solder bumps which does the same. removing the plastic out of the equation eliminates the problem of the soft plastic; even if the contacts get dirty the steel can handle the heat it's the plastic that cannot.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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a proper fix is not too difficult; you need to drill out the plastic rivets, put in a proper spacer and replace the rivets with some self-tapping screws:
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...3&share_type=t the problem is steel is a terrible contact yet that's what BMW chose to use; it gets dirty and high resistance, it heats up enough to melt the plastic and the spring pressure presses the contact into the plastic reducing the pressure increasing the resistance and accelerating the damage. I think most people try to fix this by either stretching the springs on the bulb holder to increase the pressure (which just pushes harder on the soft plastic), or they add solder bumps which does the same. removing the plastic out of the equation eliminates the problem of the soft plastic; even if the contacts get dirty the steel can handle the heat it's the plastic that cannot.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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Swapped out a bad ballast sunday and replaced the cracked back cover of the headlight that I believe was letting water get into it.
Then replaced the vacuum pump and seals and a noisy idler pulley. Yesterday I removed the GM3 module and shipped it out for repair. Still trying to figure out why the rear wiper goes on intermittently anytime the trunk is open tho. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
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Black on cream 04 4.8iS Black on black 330i ZHP auto Imola on black 01 M3 |
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Yep. Might cut the conduit open and see what I find.
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
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Black on cream 04 4.8iS Black on black 330i ZHP auto Imola on black 01 M3 |
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Quote:
You will never get that conduit sealed up again if you cut it open. Some idiot(prior owner) did that to my Z4 decklid and I want to kill them for it...
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2004 X5(E53) 3.0L 1999 M3(E36) 2003 Z4(E85) 3.0L |
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Quote:
I figured it was part of a looooong harness and I'd just have to deal with a open conduit Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
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Black on cream 04 4.8iS Black on black 330i ZHP auto Imola on black 01 M3 |
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Well it looks like it's a $1200 sub-harness for the entire rear trunk lid.
Not the kind of money I want to spend on something that I'm probably gonna sell at the end of the year. Realoem lists it at $356 but seems u can't get it anywhere close to that. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
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Black on cream 04 4.8iS Black on black 330i ZHP auto Imola on black 01 M3 |
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