How to tell Your Sway Bar/Swing Arm End Links Are Bad

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by hunds02

Going to replace my sway bar end links this week, do these need to be torqued under load (i.e. wheels on the ground)? Or is it only the thrust arm bushings and wishbone bushings? It would be great to know which suspension components need to be torqued under load as I am doing a minor overhaul this week.

Do you have the Bentley manual? It tells you which ones to torque in the air and which ones to torque under load. On the front end the only thing that needs to be torqued under load is the thrust arms. Don't know about the rear. It will be in the Bentley.

[hunds02]

I do have the manual and just checked - these DO need to be torqued under load.
I ordered the Meyle HD sway bar end links and I believe I mistakenly received two for the left side. They are both silver and look identical. They also both fit the same on the driver side.

Can anyone comment what are the differences between the driver and passenger end links? I'll pull the passenger side one off tomorrow and maybe the difference will be more obvious.

Also what about the orientation of the end links when they get installed? How do I know which side goes on top? I think it doesn't matter but want to be sure.

[hunds02]

Upon closer inspection, I noticed one of the stabilizer links have what appear to be rubber washers or backing behind the thin nut. This is consistent with the original driver's side stabilizer link. The other Meyle HD link does not. I should be able to pull the passenger side out tomorrow (rained all day today). Other than that, they seem to be identical.




Note the rubber washer between the thin nut and boot (on the rear part):

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by hunds02

Upon closer inspection, I noticed one of the stabilizer links have what appear to be rubber washers or backing behind the thin nut. This is consistent with the original driver's side stabilizer link. The other Meyle HD link does not. I should be able to pull the passenger side out tomorrow (rained all day today). Other than that, they seem to be identical.




Note the rubber washer between the thin nut and boot (on the rear part):

They should be slightly different. This shows different part numbers for left and right: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

[hunds02]

I called FCP Euro and they will send me a pair with each in its own box, clearly labeled with the part number. I'll update once I get them installed this evening.

[Lamby]

This is a good post and I will be watching this to see the out come, I thought they where identical when I did my replacements. I had Meyle HD parts also and just took one out and then put one in on one side then did the other. It was really straight forward and it didn't even cross my mind that they would be different per side. Surely they would be more clearly labeled or even not fit as snuggly as mine do when installed. Unless by pure fluke I installed them the right part for the right side!

[hunds02]

Update - I received another Meyle HD Sway Bar Link kit and this time they were in separate boxes which indicates the part number. I did one side at a time to avoid accidentally mixing them up. Each sway bar link had a colored dot on one ball joint, I guess this is how they indicate which end gets installed on the strut and sway bar. The side that had a colored dot marked with a sharpie was installed on the top end (strut). If you tried installing the other way, you could technically get it to fit if you manipulate the ball joint to get the right angle (I highly recommend not manipulating or move the ball joint during install to know the correct orientation).

Also per the Bentley manual both sides must be torqued under load. I used rhino ramps and it was a bit of a challenge to get a torque wrench on the upper ball joint. It helps if you have a box gear wrench on one end and a flat bike wrench on the other. I got it very snug that way then finished with the torque wrench. The brake lines will be in the way so I removed them from the grommet to prevent accidentally kinking the cable.

Car is on the ground now and drives very well. Can't say if the improvement is from the sway bar links as I also replaced the CV joints, thrust arms, and thrust arm ball joints.

[TiminIndy]

I think I am going to have my sway bar end links replaced soon. I have been hearing the little clunk like many have described, mostly with slight turns while going over uneven surfaces (backing out of the driveway). I also feel some vibration when braking around 50 mph - not so much in the steering wheel, but I feel it on the pedal.

I think I am going to go with the Lemfoerder end links, for $22 each on FCP. I am debating on whether I should do the control arms (wishbones) at the same time. Last year, I replaced the big control arms (tension struts) due to clunk on sharp turns.

Questions:

1) Would the time/labor be less to do both pairs at the same time, as opposed to doing them separately?

2) Will an alignment be needed when replacing either of these, or both?

3) If I do the wishbones, do I need to order parts 11, 12, & 13 at the same time?



https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...r-31126760275l



10 Wishbone, left
1

31126760275 $269.13


Required for repair

10 Wishbone, right
1

31126760276 $269.13


Required for repair

-- Collar screw M12X1,5X80 ZNS3 1

31303450534 $1.72

-- Self-locking collar nut M12X1,5-10 ZNS3 1

33326760668 $0.62

-- SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT M14X1,5 05 ZNS3 1

31106769443 $1.35

11 STEEL RUBBER MOUNTING
2

31121124622 $30.37

12 Collar screw M12X1,5X80 ZNS3 2

31303450534 $1.72

13 Self-locking collar nut M12X1,5-10 ZNS3 2

33326760668 $0.62

14 SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT M14X1,5 05 ZNS3 4

31106769443 $1.35

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by TiminIndy

I think I am going to have my sway bar end links replaced soon.
Questions:

1) Would the time/labor be less to do both pairs at the same time, as opposed to doing them separately?

2) Will an alignment be needed when replacing either of these, or both?

The sway bar links are an easy DIY job. There is no effect on alignment from these links; the whole reason for the link is to disconnect the moving aligned suspension from the sway bar.

Replacing the lower control arms however does require alignment.

symptoms: if you feel shaking in the pedal or especially the wheel during a moderate brake from 40-50mph, OR a shake in the wheel during a freeway speed lane-change, that is almost certainly control arms.

if you hear 'clunk' frequently while driving over mostly smooth surface, but over minor road level changes like concrete seams, that is for sure the sway bar links.

I changed my wife's SBL in about an hour. I lifted both sides off the ground at the same time so i could easily access everything, including turning the wheel left to right. I had my son use a 2x2 as a pry-bar to help push the sway bar up a smidgen to get it to fit on, also the replacements had a different style of 'flat' on the ball side of the threaded rod, which i could fold the rubber boot out of the way to get a normal wrench on which was nice.

trick; you can 100% verify if the SBL are shot with some electrical tape; I wrapped about 10 wraps of tape around the top and bottom of both SBL and the clunking was entirely eliminated; it gave me a week of peace while the parts were in the mail. I used some very low-cost parts considering the ease of replacing and that they don't influence the alignment.

If you can twist the SBL left and right by hand, they are likely shot, but the c-c-c—clunk that is at every tiny little road imperfection will be the solid evidence (other than the electrical tape test above)

[Lamby]

I also fitted the Lemfoerder end links and look and feel the same as the OEM parts. As for time / labour saving, you are in there, so why not get them done at the same time? Makes sense to me.

The wishbone comes as a complete part with bushing and ball joint at the other end, well it should do, you can press the bush out and just buy a bush but its a false economy if you ask me.

Wheel Alignment will be required however if you finger tighten all the nuts then put the x5 back on the ground or ramps then get under there with your torque wrench and tighten to specs then you will find the suspension will have settled more or less in place and will only be slightly off.

Oh and don't forget to bounce it a couple of time after you lower it.

Good luck and hope it helps.