Removing the axle nut

[jdd]

Originally Posted by TiAgX5

With so many variables, there is no possible response to this statement.

How strong are you? Are you built like Bo Jackson or Bo Derek?

How long is the ratchet handle/breaker bar you plan to use?

Will you stand on the wrench handle to tighten it? If so, how much do you weigh?

And so on......

310 ft/lbs is exactly that. Why not rent the correct tool and get it right. The cost of repairing a possible failure caused by getting it wrong could exceed the cost of the Tq Wrench and/or possible loss of life.

You think professional is expensive? Try novice!

Good response!
As already said 310 ft lbs is exactly that, but to put it into perspective, if you have a breaker bar with a 1 foot handle, you would need to apply 310 lbs to the very end to achieve the correct torque.
As the length of the handle increases the required force applied to the end of the handle decreases.
A breaker bar with a 2 foot handle would require 155 lbs on the very end to achieve 310 ft lbs of torque, and so on. (double the length, halve the weight).
Also, if you use your weight and stand on the end of the breaker bar, the handle must be horizontal for the above to apply.
In addition, bouncing/jumping on the end of the breaker bar will apply significantly more force than just your steady body weight and should be avoided when doing the nut up, although it is sometimes necessary when undoing the nut (depending on how much you weigh).
Although there is likely to be some safety margin, over torqueing can be as dangerous as under torqueing.
If you over torque the nut it will cause stress on the end of the CV that it was not designed to handle, potentially causing it to break which may not happen straight away.
If you are unsure, the safest thing is to hire a torque wrench capable of measuring this amount of torque.

[billdo]

I just did the axle replacement. I sprayed some PB on it the night before and drove a few miles in it. The nut came of super easy. Kind of surprised me. As for tightening. I used a 24" breaker bar and put as much into as I could. I checked it against the other axle to see how many threads were showing and they were both the same. I felt good about it and called it a success.

[hunds02]

I was having a little trouble removing the axle nut today so I can replace the CV joint. Even with a breaker bar and PB blaster I couldn't do it. Then I realized the nut is crimped to prevent it from being removed.

Any tips on how to de-crimp the nut? Car is on jack stands now and will be overnight. I rather not lower it and put tires on as my thrust arms are disconnected (will replace).

[TiAgX5]

No need to de-crimp the nut if you use something along these lines.....

[hunds02]

haha, agreed! Too bad I don't own an air compressor nor any air powered tools...

[upallnight]

A screw driver, punch, or a chisel should uncrimp the nut. Plenty of YouTube videos.

[TiAgX5]

IMHO, DIYers will eventually "give up" DIYing if they don't invest some of the money saved into tools.

Nothing more frustrating then a 3 hr job turning into a 3 day one because tools are lacking.

I upgraded my compressor ($300) and bought the gorilla impact gun ($100) to install a new transfer case chain & seals ($100). This turned a $100 job into a $500 job.

Huge repair cost jump, but the BMW dealer would have charged almost $3000 for a reman TC unit and over $1000 labor.

Future DIYs will be much quicker/less frustrating. Almost enjoyable!

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by TiAgX5

IMHO, DIYers will eventually "give up" DIYing if they don't invest some of the money saved into tools.

Nothing more frustrating then a 3 hr job turning into a 3 day one because tools are lacking.

I upgraded my compressor ($300) and bought the gorilla impact gun ($100) to install a new transfer case chain & seals ($100). This turned a $100 job into a $500 job.

Huge repair cost jump, but the BMW dealer would have charged almost $3000 for a reman TC unit and over $1000 labor.

Future DIYs will be much quicker/less frustrating. Almost enjoyable!

I learn that lesson from my dad who was an ASE certified mechanic. When my dad built a new garage for his house, one of the things my siblings and I got for him was an air compressor from Sears.

I also learn from him to buy quality tools. My brother and I inherited my dad's collection of Mac and Snap-on tools.

[TiAgX5]

I got that mindset from my Dad too, and a ton of US made "top shelf" tools.

[oldskewel]

Originally Posted by jdd

The method I used recently for undoing the CV nut was to remove the wheel and use a punch to knock back the indented part of the nut.
I then removed the centre badge/cap from the wheel and refitted it and lowered the car onto the ground.
I used a standard length 36mm 12 point socket with a short extension and a long breaker bar.
Support the head of the breaker bar at the correct height (I used an adjustable axle stand), making sure the socket is fully engaged over the nut, then apply force to the breaker bar.
I had to actually stand on the end of the breaker bar and bounce a little before it finally started to move.
It’s also a little easier with an assistant sitting in the drivers’ seat with their foot on the brake pedal.
Refit is just the opposite procedure making sure to use a new CV nut.
After tightening remember to use a punch to dent the outer collar of the nut into the groove on the end of the CV joint.

Nice description here. Many subtle tips here, that I'm sure will help for the extra-difficult removals. I'll make a note of this.

Regarding other comments, yes, just a screwdriver + light hammer will bend out the crimp thing. And it's not really to prevent it from being removed, it's to prevent it from removing itself.

Regarding torque, I have a torque multiplier which will scale things up by a factor of 3.3x (as I recall), which is a nice solution for high torque settings. But also ... I have not undone the axle nuts on my x5 yet, but on other cars, when I remove, reinstall, and torque, I (always, I think) find that the crimp ends up at the same spot, regardless of how difficult it was to remove the nut vs. to re-torque it.

So for those without a 310 ft-lb torque wrench, torque multiplier, or extension bar, if your estimate of the right torque causes the nut to line up with the crimp in the original position, that should be taken as a confirmation that things are right. And if not ...

Also, for high torque items like this, the manual will often be specific about surface preparation, for example, surfaces clean and with a light covering of engine oil. Since friction is a major component of the applied torque, things like these instructions that affect applied torque should be followed.