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  #1  
Old 02-27-2012, 10:13 PM
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Door lost all power, pass front, interior lights work

Ok so this one just happened to me. Very strange. Lost all electrical power to the door.

I lowered my window, was driving, stopped, window won't go back up, ok, wtf. Tried door locks, nope, all work, except that door. Mirror won't fold, won't tilt, nothing. Great now.

Ok so I have taken off the panel, the wires look fine.

Took out and cleaned that module where everything plugs into. All looks fine there too.

I tried swapping it with the drivers door module, no go, nothing worked at all. I am not surprised.

So I am now stumped as to what to check.

Looks like that module gets power, as it lights up the led in the door opener handle, and the window switch.

Please advise if you can think/suggest anything. I hope it's not that stupid module. I heard they can be expensive. I hate when non moving parts fail.
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  #2  
Old 02-28-2012, 10:43 AM
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To the top. How does one close a window when it doesn't have power. X is in the garage so no rush, but I need to close this thing. Help please.
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  #3  
Old 02-28-2012, 08:54 PM
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Surprised nobody jumped in here.

The car has door modules to cut down on the wiring - basically your wanting roll up the window is a "request." This method allows the system to monitor stuff like the window pinch-strip, express vs. manual (half-clicked) operation of the window switches. Stuff like that.

Now here's the thing. The door module, like many modules, is a dumbass. It's told everything it needs to know or do by the general module (GM). You cannot swap modules side to side because they are coded by location. The bus is a common line (party line), so the request goes out to all, and it's up to the addressed module to "roger up." Let me guess, you swapped the passenger side module in, but you tried to roll up the window by using the driver's switches? That will never work because your operation of the driver's switch was just a request to the GM, but it can't help you 'cause the module that the general module wants to talk to is sitting over on the bench or wherever you left it.

What I want you to do is this -

1. With the passenger side module in the passenger door, run that window down as normal. Then put the passenger side module back in the driver's door (I'm a bit surprised it connected right up - but I guess there's no real reason why it wouldn't), and OPERATE THE PASSENGER SIDE SWITCH again. It should think the window is down, but just in case, use the half-click manual mode. The bus wires used (the party line) are common throughout the vehicle (ok, within that specific subsystem, but still). The window should go up. The only reason it would not is if the passenger window is actuated by a different set of output pins from its module than the driver's door window is from its module. Regardless, you can put the module back in the passenger door and run that back up.

When I can get home later I'll take a look at the wiring pin outs. We shall see.

I also want you to operate your sunroof. If that works, then it's likely the gm is (well, it definitely is) awake and talking.

Doesn't mean after all this that you know what the problem is, but if your driver's window goes up, then
1) that'll probably seem really weird, and
2) we've narrowed this down quite a bit.

Busy busy, but I'll check in with you on the forum occasionally.

Last edited by civdiv99; 02-29-2012 at 08:25 AM.
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Old 02-28-2012, 10:41 PM
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Happen to me. It was a blown fuse (number 24). It is a 30 amp fuse.
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Old 02-28-2012, 11:05 PM
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Dude, so if you find it 's a fuse after all this...........

Otherwise the driver's window is the exact same pin out, so if it is the module, then plugging in the passenger module will work (if ya use the passenger door switch). Don't parts swap with key on either, btw.
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  #6  
Old 02-29-2012, 11:09 AM
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Thanks for the update guys. I finally managed to get this fixed.

So yea, I checked the fuses the first day as soon as this happened. All were fine. By the way, there are like 15 of them that control all the stuff that the door does. The central lock, the mirror, the window right. Everything else except that one door was fine, even the sunroof.

Friend who has a body shop gave me a window close module thing that he had laying around. He also gave me a new regulator, and a used window motor. Tried new switch right away. Same thing, window doesn't work.

So I took out that foam cover in the door, started unplugging everything. Took out the door harness. I was getting power at the harness, where it connects to the body in the door jamb, but not that switch module. WTF. Dig further. Figured out the power I was getting was not for the switch, but looks like airbag. No power at all going to the switch. Started to check each damn wire for continuity. After about 1 hour of messing around, I found it.

The wires going to the regulator motor, yea one of them looked melted. WTF. At this point I went back to the fuses, something must have blown. Pulled fuse 24 and it was now blown. Replaced fuse. Power on, first time I try to roll the window up, boom, fuse blows again. Shit.

Cut out the damaged wire. Replaced with new wire, solder tape. New fuse again. Same shit, fuse blows instantly once I try to roll the window up. If I don't touch the window button, all other electronics in the door are fine. Wires to the motor are getting really hot by the way.

Here is where Russian engineering comes in.
Same body friend gave me a window motor, and regulator. Regulator was from this door and brand new. Motor, looked to be from another door, as the wiring connector was on the front side of the door. Lucky for me, that when I replaced the wires, I made them about 8" longer because it was not really comfortable working with the original 2" of wire. So the extended wire reached the new plug location.

First I wanted to test. Took old motor, connected to harness, significant vibration from it, it turns, rattles, and I can't stop it by grabbing it. Too much torque. Newer motor turns as well, but much quieter, no vibration. Put new /er motor in, with new regulator, new window plastic clips. Start praying, please don't blow fuse. Well it didn't blow the fuse, but the switch electronics are reversed. Pull switch up, and window goes down. Shit. Must be because motor is from another side or something. Strange though, as it bolts right up. Looks almost same, but the connector is on the other side. This is when I noticed this problem, that they were just slightly different.

Ok, take out plug for motor, cut the splice, reverse the wires, put back in. Hoooray, it all works as usual, window goes down fine, doesn't blow any more fuses.

So I am thinking that my original motor took a dump. When I lowered it, it overheated and somehow damaged the wires. So I took the old motor again, and plugged it in to test it, about 15 seconds of continuous running, the motor was too hot to touch. The newer motor never got that hot, and remember it is also installed and moving the window up and down.

So in conclusion. A blown window motor, can cause severe headache. I managed to clean up the wiring, made a note that the motor harness for the motor is reversed, and glued it to the plug. Another note for the foam, with the same note. Tonight, I will finally close up the door panel. What a mission.

P.S. I swear I can take that regulator out in 5 minutes now. I did it 4 times yesterday.

P.P.S. Sorry for the super long post.

Last edited by SlickGT1; 02-29-2012 at 11:16 AM.
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  #7  
Old 02-29-2012, 11:22 AM
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Forgot to mention. I am going to take apart the old motor and check if the motor can be re-fitted into the matching position. Also want to see why it died. So I will update it here later.
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  #8  
Old 02-29-2012, 11:36 AM
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Dennis, are you sure you're not making these problems pop-up somehow so you have an excuse to mess around with the X?! LOL!

With all the experience with working on your X you could fix anything by now. :p

Glad you figured it all out.
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Old 02-29-2012, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwinsPoppa View Post
Dennis, are you sure you're not making these problems pop-up somehow so you have an excuse to mess around with the X?! LOL!

With all the experience with working on your X you could fix anything by now. :p

Glad you figured it all out.
Lol. Yea I am pretty sure I am not causing this, but according to my wife, and now you, I apparently am. LOL.

I also need to replace those plastic window clips on the driver door to take care of that rattle. By the looks of the design, these are not meant to last very long. Seems like an afterthought really. I now also understand why you should never slam your door when the window is all the way down.

My wife told me again yesterday. That it's always the person that gets my car after me, that has it good, since I fix all the BS.

Going to do the damn mounts this weekend, but going to a shop. Don't have the time for mistakes with this, so going to let the pros take care of it, while I take pics and make sure they don't drop the ball.

Sooner or later I will get this car to my standards.
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Old 08-25-2016, 11:45 AM
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I know this is an old thread but I had the problem this morning. What I found was the power block (the big connector) on the passenger side module wasn't completely seated. Once I did that everything started working fine.
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