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  #1  
Old 04-29-2012, 03:45 PM
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Rear upper control arms shot, what else to change at same time?

This winter my winter tires on the 4.4 started to wear seriously on the inside shoulder. No big issue since they are about to go in the trash but I decided to check the control arms with the air pressure off the rear spings and the whole hub assembly moves a couple of mm and it is clearly the outer knuckles of the control arms. I did not feel any play on the lower triangle or any other place.

However, once I am in there, what else should I count on changing? Anything else that for sure is prone to wear at 100k+ miles?
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  #2  
Old 04-29-2012, 11:44 PM
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I would double check the lower ball joint. Usually, their lifespan is similar to the upper suspension arms and will cause inner tire wear as well when worn.
On my truck, both had some play. I changed 2 arms and 2 ball joint and will have piece of mind for a couple of years.

The ball joints are not expensives. I suggest that you do them at the same time.
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  #3  
Old 04-30-2012, 01:45 PM
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Just ordered the wishbones, the ball joints and new bearings. I'll also order the guide links. Once I get in there I might as well do these. I don't think the intergal links need replacing but if they do then I can take care of it later. The guide links seemed ok but they can make a big difference to the alignment I guess, so will do those as well.
__________________
2003 4.4i black ext./black int./black headliner
2006 4.8iS Le Mans blue/cream int./black headliner, SOLD sadly...
2009 E70 35d, black ext./black int./black headliner (shipped to Europe)

Hmmmm, love those black headliners!

Other hardware:
2005 Tundra crew cab, son's DD and weekend hauler
2015 Cayenne S (wife's new DD and definitely wroooommmmm)
2016 Tundra 1794 edition crew cab, luxo hauler
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  #4  
Old 04-30-2012, 09:37 PM
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TriX5,
If you look at an earlier thread today, this same topic was discussed. I have recently experienced the same exact problem and posted a thread about three weeks ago with the same concerns. It lead me to replacing the rear wishbone and balljoints. Not sure how to link previous threads but here is my post of earlier today. Best of luck!!

"QUOTE" Hey all, I just went thru this on my 03 4.6 w/93K miles. I run 315/35/20 on the rear. Right rear had wear on inner side, the remaining 3 tires had no unusual wear. I took it for an alignment and the camber on the right rear could not be adjusted to spec, close but just out of the accepted margins.

I went on the forums and was advised it was probably ball joints or upper control arm (refered to as the wishbone in parts diagram). I was in denial about this but after lots of prying on the suspension my alignment guy and I determned it could be these two parts so I ordered the wishbone and ball joint for both left and right sides from Rocky Mtn European. I thought since I was messing with one side I might as well do the other. Total parts were $281, alignment $150, labor $377, and two new Vredesteins $500.

For the new allignment we followed recommended specs ie, a full tank of gas, 150 lbs on left and right front seats, 150 lbs in middle back seat and 46 lbs in the cargo area. Everything was able to be adjsuted perfectly. The alignment guy was very pleased with the results and was pretty sure changing the wishbone and ball joint was needed. Hope this helps. "QUOTE"
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  #5  
Old 05-03-2012, 08:31 AM
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Yeah...., I know this was up a 100 times and I have followed all the threads but no one really has gone beyond just replacing thewish bones. You didn't read my question, I was trying to see if there was anything that is likely to need swapping in addition to the wishbones. I don't like to do half the job and then having to go back in every 6 months.....

As it is, the wishbones, wheel bearings and ball joints showed up yesterday. The guide links I expect will come today. On the weekend I will make some time to work on it and hope to have pictures along the way.
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2003 4.4i black ext./black int./black headliner
2006 4.8iS Le Mans blue/cream int./black headliner, SOLD sadly...
2009 E70 35d, black ext./black int./black headliner (shipped to Europe)

Hmmmm, love those black headliners!

Other hardware:
2005 Tundra crew cab, son's DD and weekend hauler
2015 Cayenne S (wife's new DD and definitely wroooommmmm)
2016 Tundra 1794 edition crew cab, luxo hauler
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  #6  
Old 05-03-2012, 10:07 AM
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Make sure you post up pics and your results. I'm sure many will appreciate it.
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  #7  
Old 05-04-2012, 01:55 PM
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Louis, here is my thread from a while back asking the same thing.
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...e-bushing.html
Although #2 was also in the list I replaced only #6 and #11.

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Old 05-04-2012, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TriX5 View Post
This winter my winter tires on the 4.4 started to wear seriously on the inside shoulder. No big issue since they are about to go in the trash but I decided to check the control arms with the air pressure off the rear spings and the whole hub assembly moves a couple of mm and it is clearly the outer knuckles of the control arms. I did not feel any play on the lower triangle or any other place.

However, once I am in there, what else should I count on changing? Anything else that for sure is prone to wear at 100k+ miles?
How do you take the pressure off the back suspension, my tyres are wearing on the inside and would like to check everything
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Old 05-04-2012, 03:49 PM
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from another thread:
Quote:
Originally Posted by TriX5 View Post
This winter my winter tires had a sudden bout of inside shoulder wear whereas this was never a (major) problem on my 4.4. So out came the jack to check.

Checking for wear on the knuckle of the upper CA is not hard with an SLS. Jack up the rear of the car, take out the spare tire (remove ign key to be sure the pump doesn't kick in) and release the airlines going into the accumulators slightly so they bleed off pressure. Grab the rim on either side once the pressure has gone and see if it moves. My 4.8 which I checked last weekend had no movement but the 4.4 was a disaster area. Both upper CAs were completely shot.

I have the whole rear shooting match on order, including new bearings, to fix this.
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  #10  
Old 05-04-2012, 10:32 PM
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Getting started

I got started on Saturday and ran out of time at the point where I had to pull the axle stub back into the hub around 4pm. It is now Sunday evening and I have the hub and axle reinstalled and the control arms back on. Today was pretty much a bust as I could not do anything on it until 8.30pm.

To get started I put a jack under the triangle and support under the jack point. Took the wheel off and then disassembled the brake. Usually I connect the drain of the brake to a collector bottle to catch the liquid coming out of the caliper when I squeeze the piston back. queezing the dirty liquid back up the lines is not a great idea.

After taking off the brake disk off....SURPRISE! The one thing I forgot to take in account was the emergency brake.... To remove the brake shoes I took the left spring of and the retainers as well as the adjustment screw. Then rotate the two holding pegs with a channel lock plier, press in then turn 90 degrees. After that the shoes and the actuator came off easily enough.

Now it was time to ensure all the bolts were all in good shape by undoing the nuts. The control arms have a small hex to hold the stud while unscrewing it. MARK the position of the bold in the guide link with a marker so you can more or less achieve the same position when re-assembling! (At least until it is aligned again) The plastic guide for the brake lines and cables is held on with a small bolt and a pin through the wish bone (the pin is part of the plastic piece and a bit of wrestling is needed).

At this point you need to get your impact wrench out for the axle nut and push out the axle stub from the hub. Once the axle is clear of the hub you can pull out the gargantuan bolt from the hub carrier. At this point the hub carrier is free from the vehicle. Time for a break!

The wheel bearing housing can now be unscrewed from the hub carrier and now you have to press the hub out of the bearing and then remove the bearing race from the hub. Not much fun this part but doable. I wrestled a bit with setting up the press but it went ok. You need a couple of 2.5" U-shaped profiles so that the hub flange clears the press surface.

Next step is pressing out the ball joint from the hub carrier, it was tight with a bit of corrosion making it harder. I did not make an pics at this time as my hands were completely covered in black grease and dirt.... This is really tricky as the hub carrier has an odd shape. The U shape profile fits around the ball joint but stacking a support so that the hub carrier clears the press table surface is complex, especially if you are by yourself. Eventually I got all this done and put the assembly back on car.

Getting the axle back in to the hub turned out to be harder than on the fronts for some odd reason. I had cleaned it with a wire brush and applied lube but it refused to come out of the hub although it had come flush with the seat of the axle nut. Eventually I ground down a nut and fit it on the stub reversed. Then I used an old stub from a failed CV to connect to the stub and hammered it to get it through until I could thread a nut on and use a socket wrench to finish up. I put the new wish bone in and put on the nuts but final tightening needs to wait until the load is back on the airspring to avoid pre-stressing the rubber bushings at the chassis end.

Time for a beer. I hope my new guide links finally show up tomorrow. AutohouseAZ is much slower with delivery then Pelican I have noticed... With a bit of luck the p/s is back together tomorrow and the driver's side is up!
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__________________
2003 4.4i black ext./black int./black headliner
2006 4.8iS Le Mans blue/cream int./black headliner, SOLD sadly...
2009 E70 35d, black ext./black int./black headliner (shipped to Europe)

Hmmmm, love those black headliners!

Other hardware:
2005 Tundra crew cab, son's DD and weekend hauler
2015 Cayenne S (wife's new DD and definitely wroooommmmm)
2016 Tundra 1794 edition crew cab, luxo hauler

Last edited by TriX5; 05-06-2012 at 11:39 PM.
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