Driver side door lock not working after replacing door handle carrier

[bulkwarrior]

Hi, my driver's side door won't open from outside. I searched this forum and found that the door handle carrier needs to be replaced. I followed the DIY fix here posted by personanongrata (http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/...andle-fix.html). Thank you personanongrata!

After 2 hours of fumbling the door handle problem was finally fixed. The door opens fine now. However I got a new problem. The door lock now won't work automatically. When I press my key button, all other 3 door locks but this driver side door. Press the key again, all other 3 door unlocks(but this driver door won't unlock if it's in locked position). If I do it manually by pushing down the little pushpin then the door locks fine. I can also open the door with the key from outside(by inserting the key into the keyhole and turn). I just lost all the remote capability on this driver side door lock. I can manage it but it's inconvenient. I checked the lock actuator and it seems fine from a side peek. I didn't take it off for a more thorough inspection though. Does anybody know what might have I done incorrectly to cause this problem? When I pull the old door handle carrier out I might inadvertently touched something there. The pushpin's still connected to the actuator and everything looks fine.

Another I noticed that might relates to this problem is when the door's open, I can't fully push the pushpin down. It will go halfways then bounce up again. But when I close the door, I can push the pushpin down and lock the door as normal. The other good doors don't have this problem.

Any inputs will be greatly appreciated!

[TwinTurboGTR]

I think if you read further on Non's post, it happened to him as well. The space is tight and it is possible when tilting the old carrier out, mucked up the linkage and is getting pinned. If you try the central locking button, does that work?

Also, the pin won't go down if the door is open. Safety feature.

[bulkwarrior]

Thanks for the reply. I did notice non's comment at the bottom of his post. HOwever it doesn't seem to be the same kind of problem I am having. I also tried the solution he suggested and it didn't help at all. My problem is the keyless function of the driver side door is totally gone. I had to do it manually now. Also the pushpin won't go into locked position when the door is open(all other door's pushpin can go into locked position while those doors are open, and I remember the pushpin can go into locked before I fixed this handle carrier).

[bulkwarrior]

I just drove a little bit, and noticed the "door open" message was on, although all doors are completely closed. I now suspect I might have inadvertently knock loose a wire connecting to the door lock actuator. Does anyone know where the wire is connected at the actuator and where the other end of the wire is? Thanks.

[JonK]

I have had this problem say last 12 month.
Did you disconnect the battery when you were working on unplugging door actuator or windows regulator motor by any chance.

Both of my front door won't respond to either remote door lock and doorlock button on central console. I am suspecting during my repair I have damaged the capacitor one GM3(General Module).

I am still driving around the car without central lock, consistently displaying door open. LMK what you find out.

[Chopper]

Check the linkages are all connected, had the same problem last wk on car id just bought took it back to garage and boy had it fixed in 5min

[TerminatorX5]

there is a hall effect sensor that is indicating when the door is in closed position. if that sensor is "deactivated" by a broken wire, that the status of the door is reported as "open". in that status, the lock will not lock the plunger, as well as if the door is open and you push the plunger manually - this is done to prevent a lockoout, same as in many other cars. So, if the car "thinks" that the door is open, the driver's door will NOT lock.

Now ius good time to locate that sensor - I don't have my comp handy to check the realOEM and the WDS but maybe someone else here with a first hand experience can chime in.

your car operates as designed, everything is OK, except for the door status monitoring sensor. could be a loose pin, a cut wire or even a nick in the wire...

Do your internal lights stay on when the door actually is shut? or the lights think that the door is open and continue to shine?

[TerminatorX5]

according to WDS the door contact signal comes to the 18-pin plug on the driver's door module (the one with the windows and mirror switch). check pin # 11, if the status of the signal on the pin changes as the door closes and opens - if the status does not change, you might have a break in the line or a faulty hall sensor.

from the WDS:

System lock



The system lock contains the following components

• Mechanical safety rotary latch
• Door contact
• Central locking drive
• Lock switch (front doors only)

Electrical components

Switches



The switches are designed as contactless switches with Hall-effect elements. All switches feature a common ground (terminal 31) connection.

• Door contact
  The position of the rotary latch detected by a switch in order to determine the door position (open or closed).
• Door lock switch
  The door lock switches determine the position of the lock cylinder (locked or unlocked)

Drives



The central locking drives are linked to the lock mechanism. The following settings are possible:

• Unlocked:
  In this position, the rotary latch can be opened both via the inner door handle as well as the outer door handle. The locking button is up.
• Locked:
  In this position, the rotary latch can be opened only via the inner door handle; the locking button is down.
  After the inner door handle is pulled the first time, the locking button is pushed up and the rotary latch unlocks. The rotary latch opens the second time the inner door handle is pulled.
  This setting can be achieved both electrically (via the ZV drive) or manually by pressing the locking button.
• Armed:
  The rotary latch cannot be opened in this position. The inner and outer door handles as well as the locking button are mechanically uncoupled.
  This setting can only be achieved electrically with the central locking drives.

The general module is equipped with a repeat inhibit function in order to protect the drives from thermal overload as the result of frequent use.
Mechanical components

Door lock

Only the front doors are equipped with door locks. The door lock on the front passenger's door is also dispensed with if the vehicle is equipped with remote control.
The door can be locked and unlocked mechanically via the door lock. Mechanical unlocking is also possible when the central locking is in armed status.
Child safety lock

The system locks of the rear doors are equipped with a mechanical child safety lock. The doors cannot be opened from the inside when the child safety lock is engaged.
Lockout protector

A mechanical lockout protector which prevents the door locking with the rotary latch open is integrated in the system lock on the driver's door.

[THeMV]

Hello,

In my car I needed to replace the driver door actuator, some plastic thiny broke, so the inside door handle wasn't working anymore.
After replacement the driver door was not working anymore on the key or console button.
I removed fuses 20 and 24, next it was working again.

Hope this helps some one...
Greetings!

[Madams0325]

I am having the exact same problem, after I replaced my driver side handle carrier assembly, the driver side front actuator dose not work with the remote or central lock switch. The lights on my front driver side door switches do not illuminate.