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  #11  
Old 10-22-2012, 06:45 PM
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I got my 2002 4.6 two years ago, and my TC was trashed. I got trany refurbished at $3200 or somthing around there.
My wife has been driving my X lately. And today she described very simular symptoms as OP. No surging at low, consistent speed, like before and she also got "some type of brakes or something it said".... lol, typical wife responce.

Slick GT1... I assume I can run jumpers from battery to my meter while driving to see over voltage???
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  #12  
Old 10-22-2012, 06:53 PM
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I've interrogated wifey (lol) to find out exactly what transpired. She now remembers a "battery" symbol illuminated in the dash.... Hmmm maybe I'm over or under charging too...?
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  #13  
Old 10-22-2012, 09:39 PM
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So I did the test that I found on slickGT1's sig. It was exactly what I needed to know! Thanks for that! I did the volt test.



^ notice that its running with a whooping 10.6v!

So is this as simple as a new altinator? Or do I need a regulator rectifier?

Thanks guys
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:23 AM
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Hi Jordo, long time.

I am going to presume that your car starts fine every time. If so, your problem is at the alternator. I am not sure you will be able to get away with a simple voltage regulator fix. You might be in for an ALT. More so if you had shit leaking on it. From experience, if you had a coolant leak, or any oil leak onto the alt, it gets cooked on the coils and fries them. Take that sucker out and see if you can get someone local to bench test the regulator and the coils. If you just want to buy one, I suggest stay away from reman units. They always die right after the shitty warranty period, and cost around half of a brand new unit.

If you want to buy new, contact this guy. Tell him you are from Xoutpost, <-this is important. His prices can't be beat. He likes honoring "clubs".

Craig Hacker
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  #15  
Old 10-23-2012, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlickGT1 View Post
Hi Jordo, long time.

I am going to presume that your car starts fine every time. If so, your problem is at the alternator. I am not sure you will be able to get away with a simple voltage regulator fix. You might be in for an ALT. More so if you had shit leaking on it. From experience, if you had a coolant leak, or any oil leak onto the alt, it gets cooked on the coils and fries them. Take that sucker out and see if you can get someone local to bench test the regulator and the coils. If you just want to buy one, I suggest stay away from reman units. They always die right after the shitty warranty period, and cost around half of a brand new unit.

If you want to buy new, contact this guy. Tell him you are from Xoutpost, <-this is important. His prices can't be beat. He likes honoring "clubs".

Craig Hacker
Fixed Operations Director
BMW of Bloomfield
Direct 973-780-9551
[email protected]
BMW NJ dealer in Bloomfield New Jersey selling new BMWs, used BMWs in Essex county, north Jersey area

LOL, it has been a while. I got a e36 as my project car, so that pretty much eats up my fourm time, lol.
X does start up each time, so I agree battery is prolly not the issue. After I inspected the alt in the day light... I can see my leaky ass valve covers have been drooling on it.

I HATE doing something twice do to short cuts the first time, so I'll just go new. Imma hit up your guy for parts for sure.

Thanks a TON for your time and effort to not just help me, but everyone who comes across this thread.
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  #16  
Old 10-24-2012, 07:53 AM
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Where is the pic of the 3 series?
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  #17  
Old 10-25-2012, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thetechguy View Post
Also does anyone know if the ZF 5HP24 transmission from a Land Rover Discovery will suit an X5?
The Disco was never fitted with the 5HP24.

It may be worth pointing out that there are 27 variants of the 5HP24 transmission which use five different transmission maincases. A Jaguar or BMW 5HP24 car transmission cannot be made to fit the E53 because the back end of the casing is designed to accommodate attachment to the transfer box. Similarly the Range Rover casing is different to the E53’s because the transfer boxes are different (single range NV125 vs two range NV225). The ‘034’ model of the 5HP24 used in the 4.6iS is uprated to manage higher torques than the ‘029’ model used in the 4.4i. These two transmissions aren't therefore interchangeable either.

Phil
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  #18  
Old 10-27-2012, 06:24 AM
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Okay I have an update,

SlickGT1 I have tried to do the voltage test as by using the method in your signature link, I could not do the test as every time I start the car I get the fail safe message.

I did connect my battery/ alternator tester to the car while running and I got 14.2V, I might try your method again when my car is cold so I can get a better reading.

I also dropped the tranny sump and did a service,and including new oil and filter, 4L of oil came out and 6L went back in so it was low. The power steering like noise is also still there.

I am still getting the fail safe message when the car is warm, the old oil was very black but did not smell burnt, it was the same as any trans that I have serviced over the years.

Funny thing is when I drive the car the warning light goes away every now and again although the trans fail safe message remains on and I am stuck in third gear.

The trans actually shifts better now with new oil,

Anyone got any ideas? I think I might be up for a tranny :-(
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  #19  
Old 10-27-2012, 08:11 PM
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I was able to do the voltage test using the dash method and I got 13.3V ~ 13.5V while driving. Is that an acceptable voltage?
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  #20  
Old 10-27-2012, 08:57 PM
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That seems to be in the acceptable range. Have you tried finding someone to scan your car. By scan I mean GT1/DIS.

Just for reference, my car stays at 13.8-14.1 lights on, radio on, climate, and music for my daughter.

Did you do the test with load. You should.
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