"Monitor Incomplete" getting ready for smog! and cant pass that ,monitor...help!

[Qsilver7]

Also don't forget the 3 minutes of cold idling at 1st start...and 5 minutes of idling...IN GEAR...not in "P" at the end at a complete stop.

[jfoj]

Clear the codes even if there are none.

You only need 2 minutes of idle on cold start, 3 will not hurt anything. The FTP is helpful but even if you follow it 100% it rarely will clear all Monitors in the first drive cycle. The Evap is the most difficult to get to clear and usually take at least 2 or more drive cycles, but if you get down to one Monitor you may be able to get the vehicle inspected.

My guess is the SAP will not pass due to these engines often having problems with the ports in the head clogging and if the pre-cat O2 sensors are originals, one or more may be lazy.

[pwvarley]

Originally Posted by upallnight

City driving with speed under 50 mph or highway driving with speed over 60 mph?

I have done both, for a decent amount of time, still not clearing the last 2....in AZ I just need one more to clear to pass emissions...

[Quicksilver]

Just curious but wouldn't it be better to fix the problems causing the codes,
and thus the failures? Or am i missing something. Aside from driving to the
shop whet the smog test would be done i've never heard about completing
drive cycles to set the readiness bit……...

[pwvarley]

Originally Posted by Quicksilver

Just curious but wouldn't it be better to fix the problems causing the codes,
and thus the failures? Or am i missing something. Aside from driving to the
shop whet the smog test would be done i've never heard about completing
drive cycles to set the readiness bit……...

Completely,

But the X isn't really giving me much to go by for a fix? No SES lights and no hard codes popping up. The pending O2 code hasn't come back since I cleared it and started driving around. But if I knew what needed to be done to fix it, I would....just don't know what It is

[pwvarley]

Originally Posted by jfoj

Clear the codes even if there are none.

You only need 2 minutes of idle on cold start, 3 will not hurt anything. The FTP is helpful but even if you follow it 100% it rarely will clear all Monitors in the first drive cycle. The Evap is the most difficult to get to clear and usually take at least 2 or more drive cycles, but if you get down to one Monitor you may be able to get the vehicle inspected.

My guess is the SAP will not pass due to these engines often having problems with the ports in the head clogging and if the pre-cat O2 sensors are originals, one or more may be lazy.

UPDATE!!!

So I cleared the DTC codes earlier this afternoon, took a 15 minute drive, had 3 monitors showing incomplete.

Took a longer drive first half highway, stopped and waited at curbside for some delicious food, took city streets on the way back, let the car cool down and ate my food....plugged in the scanner and now 7 of 8 Monitors reporting ready!!

The Secondary Air finally cleared, EVAP system hasn't cleared yet, but I can pass emissions without it, Ill monitor it to make sure I resolve any underlying problems, its strange that the EVAP system is the last as its the part I fixed starting this whole process

[jfoj]

The Evap monitor is the hardest/slowest monitor to clear. It will clear in the the next few days if the fuel tank is at least 1/2 full (but I target 3/4 full) and the driving condition are met. The Ambient Air Temp sensor need to be working and the Evap Monitor typically requires at a minimum 2 drive cycles, but can take 6+ depending on the conditions. If there is a problem with the Evap system you will have a code set before the Monitor is set to Ready/Pass/Clear.

I would not worry about anything at this point as long as you get the car inspected before a Pending or hard code is triggered.

The fact you had a Pending O2 sensor code likely means you have a lazy pre-Cat O2 sensor. The most common O2 sensor codes are for heater problems, but these are rarely Pending. O2 sensors are "consumable" and it is recommended they be replaced every 100k miles. I would focus mainly on the pre-Cat O2 sensors as the post-Cat are really for catalytic converter monitoring and can be a PITA to route the wiring.

[pwvarley]

Originally Posted by jfoj

The Evap monitor is the hardest/slowest monitor to clear. It will clear in the the next few days if the fuel tank is at least 1/2 full (but I target 3/4 full) and the driving condition are met. The Ambient Air Temp sensor need to be working and the Evap Monitor typically requires at a minimum 2 drive cycles, but can take 6+ depending on the conditions. If there is a problem with the Evap system you will have a code set before the Monitor is set to Ready/Pass/Clear.

I would not worry about anything at this point as long as you get the car inspected before a Pending or hard code is triggered.

The fact you had a Pending O2 sensor code likely means you have a lazy pre-Cat O2 sensor. The most common O2 sensor codes are for heater problems, but these are rarely Pending. O2 sensors are "consumable" and it is recommended they be replaced every 100k miles. I would focus mainly on the pre-Cat O2 sensors as the post-Cat are really for catalytic converter monitoring and can be a PITA to route the wiring.

Yea, I would like to get them replaced, I do not want to ignore any problem, and I thought it was strange that it was just pending. I searched the computer last night to see if the pending o2 code had come back but it hadn't. But maybe switching them out just because. Would you replace all 4 or just the Pre Cat ones?

I called BMW and they wanted just under $300 dollars for 1 of them. AutoZone carries a Bosche O.E. sensor or AutohausAZ has bosche ones. Any issues not buying it from BMW?

[jfoj]

I suggest Pre-cat O2 sensors as these are really what monitors the fuel mixture as well as monitors the SAP system.

You want Bosch Direct Fit O2 sensors, you do not want to buy them from the dealer. Using online coupons from AutoZone, Advance, Amazon or other suppliers, 4 wire, non Wideband O2 sensors should be between $40-$45 each if you can find decent pricing.

Rock Auto is worth checking as well.

You might try the BMW Pricing Tool, BMW Part Number Price Comparison for Windows & Mac and see if this will work with the Bosch part numbers.

Verify the Bosch part number using this site - https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/

[johngrefe]

I know I'm bumping an old thread, just looking for some pointers.

This is my screen for readiness, I've done 3 drive cycles, but cannot get further than this, any tips?

I have a 2006 4.4 with the N62

https://photos.app.goo.gl/XxTpK27L2uLfJZWNA