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#41
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#42
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time to start wiring up the in-car mobile DVR... this is front facing camera, not connected yet...
next one will be the wiring harness for the DVR... then, connecting camera to DVR... |
#43
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Started working on the V1 installation... so far only wired up remote power/audio module for V1. Removed the SOS button from its location in the overhead console, as I do not use the TCM module any longer, tucked the button into the overhead cavity without disconnecting the button. I stripped the audio module from its case and mounted it onto the blank cover for the microphone opening. since the newly created module could not fit into the SOS opening, I moved the "Passenger Air Bag" into the SOS opening, and installed the audio "module" into the "air bag" opening...
I think, it looks ok... I will post more as it comes up... |
#44
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The audio module mounting looks great. Should be rather functional there in terms if reach too. Curious where you plan to mount the V1 itself?
I have mine on the windshield up very close to mirror but it is still not ideal. Thank you for the inspiring thread here and sharing your progress. Thinking of copying your master power relay idea when I get to inverter. J 2005 4.8is
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2003 E39 530i 1992 MX5 2005 E53 x5 4.8is (sold) 1990 K75S (sold) |
#45
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I like this Term……very secretive….better than my Go Pro Cam
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Call Me For Tires: 732-421-6931 Past 2000 E46 325i 2006 E53 4.4i Sport 2006 X5 4.8is 2011 E90 328xi 2011 E71 50i Fully Loaded :thumb up: Current 2000 E39 528i 2013 F10 M5 2013 F10 535xi 2017 X3 2017 Sedona 2017 Optima 2016 Fiesta |
#46
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Here is the location of the remote display for the V1
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#47
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The best location for the detector would be at the top of the mast... But, unfortunately, i could not find a decent mast that would fit nicely onto the E53... So, the search for best location is still on...
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#48
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Are you close to needing a second battery?
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X5 4.6 2002 Black Sap, Black interior. 2013 X5M Melbourne Red, Bamboo interior Dallas |
#49
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a very valid point though...
the master fuse is rated at 200A and the alternator is rated at 170A... so, I would say that the car can sustain 100 Amps, with a peak at 150A and burning hot at 200A after which, it is dead... (so, we have 1200W sustained, about 2000W peaking) per my very rough estimate, I have added 2 inverters rated at 200 W sustained each (400W each peak), couple headrest monitors at 10W sustained each, will have a running detector at 5W peak, a DVR at 50W (i need to check the specs again), and few cameras at 1-3W each... all of those would add about 500W if all of them are running at full capacity, which is, to power two laptops, watch both monitors, record all 8 cameras, charge 4 cell phones (5W stock chargers for 3 of them, 40 W for mine)... if I will run all 4 seat heaters, AC full blast, steering wheel heater, honk the horn, have front, rear fogs, high and low beams on... At this point i probably will blow a fuse or two, since i will not have enough juice to run this freak show!!! a second battery could be in works... lol.. |
#50
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Here is the continuation for the V1...
part of this install calls for power for the V1. I need to draw power that is on with ignition, and the source of such power in the overhead console is the Garage Door Opener... However, I hate to use the taps, so I have built a Y-splitter using original BMW connectors and Digi-Key pins. here is the list of parts: 61 13 8 377 072 - 3-pin socket housing - 1 piece 61 13 6 931 929 - 3-pin terminal housing -1 piece A28327-ND - socket pins - 3 pins - Digi-Key WM2515-ND - terminal pins - 3 pins - Digi-Key 61 13 1 378 106 - round 2-pin connector housing - 1 piece 61 13 1 378 108 - round 2-pin connector housing - 1 piece 61 13 1 376 193 - pin male w/o wire - 2 pieces 61 13 1 376 202 - pin female w/o wire - 2 pieces Now, since I am not locked in a location within reach for V1 controls and visual, I need to figure out location for the actual unit. I can't do it while I am in VA, as detectors are illegal here, so it needs to wait until I am in PA... I will continue posting... |
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