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#11
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Flickering occurs more during cornering, any reason to believe bulb over ballast based on that?
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Installed! e53 OEM trailer hitch and wiring harness. No longer for sale |
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#12
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Any recommendations on bulbs.
How are these Amazon.com: D2S - Osram Xenarc 66240CBI HID Bulbs: Automotive
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Installed! e53 OEM trailer hitch and wiring harness. No longer for sale |
#13
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CBI's are amazing bulbs, 5K bulb color temp but no loss of lumens compared to a 4300K bulb.
However I would be wary of Amazon for Philips/Osram bulbs. Stick to HIDbulbsRus | Home as he is 100% guaranteed for genuine bulbs, or Headlights, Car Lights, Headlight Bulb, Car Bulbs, Car Light Bulbs | PowerBulbs as well.
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2018 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 68RFE 19k miles -Bright White/Black - Big Horn Sport - Crew Cab Short Bed 2013 X5 35D (CEO's) - Born on 5/17/2013 - 82k miles - Alpine White/Cinnamon Brown/Premium Pkg, Sport Activity/Premium Pkg and Sound/20" Style 214/Running Boards |
#14
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Quote:
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#15
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^ Thanks for the reply. I am now more convinced that my issue is a ballast going bad. I am experiencing the same problems and did the same troubleshooting as you did. The only thing that I have not done yet is the switching of the ballast because it requires the remover of the bumper. I am performing that task today.
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2010 X6 50i 2005 X5 3.Oi, Many Options 2015 HONDA CR-V EX-L 1998 ACURA 2.5TL MODs - Driver's outside mirror light - Voice Recognition Module - Blaupunkt Entertainment System with Digital TV |
#16
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Apologies in advance for the volume of this post
So I took almost all of the bumper fittings out and removed the nearside headlight again to replace the ballast. I left the two 8mm screws in on the offside - there's enough flex in the bumper to not have to fight the plastic fittings at each side of the car.
There aren't a lot of pictures that I could find so here is the story starting with the location of the ballast: I never found a good picture of the inside of the lamp unit, showing the igniter. So here's my attempt! To get the igniter out, release the wire from the side opposite the black cable, and that retaining wire allows the black cable - which seems highly unconvincing as a connection, it feels awfully loose - to fall free. Once done, rotate the igniter a few degrees like you are unscrewing it and out it pops. (The bulb has a pair of wire retainers that need unclipping if you want to take it out as well). Where the headlamp used to be shows the cooling slot for the ballast. Presumably it's also a water/salt intake too: The new ballast is a generic Hella part number 5DV 008 290, bought from a Mercedes stockist in the UK for £70 (US$102 at today's rate). It seems slightly healthier in appearance than the ten year old predecessor: The new ballast fixed the problem with the headlamps. So I wanted to take a closer look at the failure mode. As only one of the T9 case screws came out easily, it was time to unleash the angle grinder to take the heads off the other three and prise the case open - which took some effort. The failure mode is self-evident: Now this, in my mind, is to some degree a classic BMW problem of mixed metals - the Aluminium/Aluminum (delete as applicable) ballast case and the steel retaining screws will encourage corrosion. Add in some salt and moisture, from UK winters, and this will corrode enough to produce salt that will press through the red seal inside the case. That corrosion has in this case spread to the circuit board which is bonded (presumably for thermal reasons) onto the bottom of the ballast case, and it has bridged across enough to influence the performance of edge components, this is the worst affected: I'm pretty impressed that this ballast even worked, albeit for a couple of minutes at a time! Job done - thanks for your patience and apologies again for the heavy imagery in this response. |
#17
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Hey Moments,
Did you have to reset the LCI after replacing the ballast? I replaced mine and it worked at first and now the low bean bulb is out. I put the old one back and it didn't came back on. I replaced a ballast before and it did the same thing. It was a long time ago and I believe that I disconnected the battery in order for the LCI to reset it self.
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2010 X6 50i 2005 X5 3.Oi, Many Options 2015 HONDA CR-V EX-L 1998 ACURA 2.5TL MODs - Driver's outside mirror light - Voice Recognition Module - Blaupunkt Entertainment System with Digital TV |
#18
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I didn't need to reset anything - the check control error cleared down and I left the lights on with a battery charger connected while putting everything back together. I'll scan the LCM later today and clear down the shadow codes, I'm assuming all is well.
There is a TSB on this which is all I can add right now: ==================== SI B 63 07 05 Lights April 2006 Technical Service This Service Information bulletin supersedes S.I. B63 07 05 dated November 2005. [NEW] designates changes to this revision SUBJECT Headlight(s) are Inoperative After Parts Replacement or Coding MODEL E46 (3 Series) with SA 522 (Xenon lights) E53 (X5) with SA 522 (Xenon lights) [NEW] E83 (X3) with SA522 (Xenon lights) [NEW] E85 (Z4) with SA522 (Xenon lights) SITUATION After replacing a headlight(s) assembly, Lamp Module (LCM), Lamp Switch Center (LSZ), Stepper Motor Controller (SMC), Active Headlight Control (AHL) or coding the LCM/LSZ the headlight is inoperative. CAUSE The System has not been initialized. PROCEDURE The headlight has to have a calibration sweep in order for the LCM/LSZ to recognize it. Use the following procedure to calibrate the headlights: ^ Select - Control Module Function Screen ^ Select - Active Headlight Control (AHL) ^ Select - Activate Components ^ Select - Reference run with senior ^ Select - Control module reset WARRANTY INFORMATION Covered under the terms of the BMW New Vehicle Limited Warranty. ==================== This looks to me to be forcibly 'reminding' the LCM of the state it should be in. |
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flicker, headlights, hid, low beam, low-beam |
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