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  #11  
Old 10-18-2013, 12:04 PM
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I meant more which ones are the existing +12v/ve and did he just just plug the jumpers in to the nodes, or splice them etc

TIP: I simply used a small jumper wire and used the existing +12V and –ve available on the big black connector to pulse the actuator.
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  #12  
Old 10-21-2013, 05:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silicabello View Post
I meant more which ones are the existing +12v/ve and did he just just plug the jumpers in to the nodes, or splice them etc

TIP: I simply used a small jumper wire and used the existing +12V and –ve available on the big black connector to pulse the actuator.

Hi Silicabello, apologies for not responding. I had subscribed to this thread but did not receive the last few replies for some reason. It was only when I logge don did I see these responses. Nonetheless let me answer your question;
On the larger ("big") black connector I simply checked (using a multimeter) for a +12v/ -ve node as you call it. simply pushed a wire into these nodes (female plug on black connector).

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On the white connector (feeding the actuator motors) i did make a small splice which I then taped up with insulation tape once done.
I hope this helps you, you are welconme to PM me if you need more detail.
Apologies for the pics, but i tried my best and not too clued up on how to load pics.
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  #13  
Old 10-31-2013, 11:36 AM
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awesome post Mujahid

Many thanks for this. I had same symptoms - front passenger door stopped working (sometimes at first then gradually not at all) with the remote and had to open it from inside but then wouldn't unlock from inside eventually.

Read your 'hot wire' post but also heeded your warning about not doing it unless confident. So I got a replacement (salvaged) module instead but it made no difference when I fitted it. Then wondered if it was the actuator that was faulty?

Anyway, plucked up the courage to try your hot-wire. Got it right second attempt when I realised it was the black AND the white wires together (not the black/white wire) and the blue. Spliced the 3 wires and fitted them to a terminal block (blue in one and the black and the white in the other) then used an electrical cable offcut to connect to the terminal block and then to 12 v power. Also used the big black connector to power it and.....voila! open sesame!

The remote still isn't working but at least the door opens from inside again. I think the salvaged module must have been faulty also.

Thanks a million :-)

------------

Just a wee update peeps. Got a replacement module but it did not fix the fault so will have the actuator swapped over next. In the meantime have had power cable to actuator disconnected to prevent deadlocking again. Lock works fine manually.

My BMW specialist/indie mechanic friend was knocked out by Mujahid's hot wire trick.

Last edited by sruthan; 11-14-2013 at 12:34 PM. Reason: update
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  #14  
Old 10-31-2013, 01:02 PM
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Wow cool trick.
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  #15  
Old 11-01-2013, 02:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Multibeemer View Post
Thanks for this useful post, but I have a question about the premise. If the actuator isn't working, the problem could either be with the actuator itself, or with the door module on the window switch, right? It still makes sense to try to jumper the module first, before taking of the door panel to access the actuator, but a non-functioning actuator is not a guarantee that the problem is with the source of the signal to the actuator, namely the door module, right?
Agree
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  #16  
Old 05-22-2014, 03:49 AM
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This post is very valuable. Just connect +12 to blue wire and ground 0v to black wire and it worked for me! I am very happy, want to be appreciated to Mujahid. Remote still not working but I am think the problem maybe the lock actuator faulty. I will buy the genuine BMW lock actuator for passenger side (left side) on ebay for 420AUD.
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  #17  
Old 08-01-2015, 03:33 PM
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Hi guys,

My name's Arnaud, I'm french, living in french Guadeloupe island in the caribs area (2000 km in the south far from Miami).

I'm the happy owner of a 2005 X5 3.0 D.

Sorry for my english which is not perfect but I'll try to make me understand.

I have exactly the same issue as yours, the passenger door will not open neither from inside nor from outside.
And the driver door won't close...

I have read your solution but I'm not good at all in electricity, I'm very bad to tell the truth and I didn't understand how to do.

Is there one of you who would be able to explain it to me in french language ?

Or will you please add pictures so that I understand better.

How do you push 12v and where on the actuator window and where do I have to push 0v and how ?
0v is 0v so it's not worth plugging any electricity source...?
Sorry I'm very bad in electricity, it's like chinese for me...

Thank you for helping, I'm getting crazy with my doors !
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  #18  
Old 11-15-2015, 08:06 AM
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Anyone have this issue with the rear door? I always use my rear drivers side door when I'm running errands and never have an issue when km by myself. But as soon as someone is in the back seat and they try to get out from inside, the door will not open. It takes alot of cycling lock/unlock and luck to get it working again. It's really embarrassing when I have new friends in my car and the like the bmw, and then it does something like that. Wtf.
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  #19  
Old 03-03-2020, 04:35 PM
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Question on the Black connector

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mujahid View Post
Hi all, first off a big thank you to this forum and its members. The assistance you have provided has been invaluable. And am therefore please to contribute as well.

PASSENGER DOOR WONT OPEN FROM INSIDE OR OUTSIDE
First determine by listening if the actuator is working or not. In my case it was not. So there was no signal from the door module (located on passenger door window switch) to the actuator.
I could therefore not open the door from either the inside or outside. THERE IS NO NEED TO REMOVE DOOR CARD INSITU IN THIS CASE.
What you need to do is “hot wire “ the actuator;
Remove the door switch, using a flat tool, preferably plastic.
Undo all the connectors on the bottom of the unit.

Attachment 60432

The white connector feeds power to the actuator motors.

Attachment 60431
You need to find the BLUE, WHITE and BLACK wires on this connector (PINS 12, 6 & 7)
The BLUE is the common wire with WHITE and BLACK going to the motors in the actuator.
LOCK: +12V to the WHITE/ BLACK wire and –ve/ ground on the BLUE wire
UNLOCK: +12V on the BLUE wire and –ve/ground on the WHITE/ BLACK wire
You have to reverse polarity to LOCK and UNLOCK.

Attachment 60433

TIP: I simply used a small jumper wire and used the existing +12V and –ve available on the big black connector to pulse the actuator.
WARNING: There are BUS cables amongst these – SO PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMPT UNLESS YOU ARE COMPETENT AND ABSOLUTELY SURE OF WHAT YOU ARE DOING!!
PM if I have not been clear on any issue and I can also send you a copy of the schematic.

Hi Mujahid,
Can you let me know what pins you are referring to on the black connector which has the +12v and 0v which I can use?
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  #20  
Old 03-03-2020, 04:43 PM
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You might be waiting a while on your answer from Mujahid since his last posting activity was over 5 years ago.
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