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  #11  
Old 01-06-2018, 10:58 AM
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MTC pipe works fine for over four years now, but only 20k miles during this time.
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  #12  
Old 01-06-2018, 11:27 AM
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The pipes can be refurbished. It only took off about 0.025mm of metal to make it to a mirror finish. A new o-ring will easily deal with that.

Notice I have a large socket and a drill adapter. I spun the pipe in my drill, I set the bottom of the pipe on some scotch bright between my feet and turned myself into a human lathe.

I used sandpaper initially, then scotch bright, then I used a soft fingernail file and that removed any hint of corrosion.

Finally I used rubbing compound to buff to a mirror finish. Better than new and this pipe made it to 180,000 miles it will be it's only rework.
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  #13  
Old 11-30-2018, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
The pipes can be refurbished. It only took off about 0.025mm of metal to make it to a mirror finish. A new o-ring will easily deal with that.

Notice I have a large socket and a drill adapter. I spun the pipe in my drill, I set the bottom of the pipe on some scotch bright between my feet and turned myself into a human lathe.

I used sandpaper initially, then scotch bright, then I used a soft fingernail file and that removed any hint of corrosion.

Finally I used rubbing compound to buff to a mirror finish. Better than new and this pipe made it to 180,000 miles it will be it's only rework.
Andrew, where did you find the new front seal? I can only find the pipe itself that comes with the seal on it. I would love to do the same thing and refurbish the pipe that is in there if I can find a new front seal. Was also wondering if BMW had changed the seal's material to viton or similar so I will only have to do this job once on this truck.

Edit: Just found that MTC makes one as well. Wonder if this one uses better seals?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Cool...QAAOSw2C1al0aO
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  #14  
Old 11-30-2018, 11:47 AM
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Which coolant pipe? N62 content

I can't remember if I did get a new seal. I think I just beefed up the old seal with Teflon. We had a kit for redoing the chain guides it came with a lot of seals.


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  #15  
Old 11-30-2018, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
I can't remember if I did get a new seal. I think I just beefed up the old seal with Teflon. We had a kit for redoing the chain guides it came with a lot of seals.
Hmmm... I might have to go with that MTC pipe over OEM. Can not find any information as to whether or not the seal has been redesigned. Did find one fairly recent post on a mechanic's forum that implied it hadn't, but nothing concrete.

You did this work on an M62?
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  #16  
Old 12-04-2018, 05:02 PM
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I used this one last year. It’s the least amount of disassembly. It just slips into the leaking pipe.

The key is to thoroughly prep the area. Also, it only works on the front seal. If the rear is leaking, you’ll need to do the whole pipe.

https://bimmerfix.com/?product=bimme...EaAofMEALw_wcB
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  #17  
Old 12-04-2018, 07:23 PM
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Which coolant pipe? N62 content

Quote:
Originally Posted by crystalworks View Post
Hmmm... I might have to go with that MTC pipe over OEM. Can not find any information as to whether or not the seal has been redesigned. Did find one fairly recent post on a mechanic's forum that implied it hadn't, but nothing concrete.

You did this work on an M62?


Yes on M62 motor. I'm looking for photo of the seal. I can't remember if I replaced the seal. I do remember that I was concerned the bare aluminum would let corrosion get under the seal from the outside so I actually ended up painting the end of the pipe other than the seal portion.





Found these pics above. I'm reminded that I used rtv outside the seal to keep the environment off of the bare aluminum. I think it's high odds I reused the original seal. It did not leak.
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Old 12-04-2018, 07:34 PM
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Thanks Andrew for the info. Think I'll go with the mtc pipe AND use some permatex upon reassembly as a piece of mind measure. My seal is not leaking on the OE pipe currently. But if I am going to be in there doing vss, timing cover seals, etc... I might as well do it proactively.
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Nav, DSP, Pano, Running Boards, OEM Tow Hitch, Cold Weather Pckg (Purchased 08/15 w/ 90,500 miles)

2010 X5 35d Build 02/10
Nav, HiFi, 6 DVD, Sports Pckg, Cold Weather Pckg, HUD, CAS, Running Boards, Leather Dash, PDC, Pano (Purchased 03/17 w/ 136,120 miles)
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  #19  
Old 12-04-2018, 07:55 PM
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Permatex is what I used I just cleaned and polished the original pipe before reinstalling.


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  #20  
Old 01-02-2019, 03:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stiubhartach View Post
I used this one last year. It’s the least amount of disassembly. It just slips into the leaking pipe.

The key is to thoroughly prep the area. Also, it only works on the front seal. If the rear is leaking, you’ll need to do the whole pipe.

https://bimmerfix.com/?product=bimme...EaAofMEALw_wcB
The rear seal can't "leak" per say on an n62 because both sides of the pipe are inside of the cooling system... It is important that there be an oring there because it keeps the flow of the pipe down the transfer tube but if you look closely there is a bleed hole between the valley and the back cover anyway. So if it leaks slightly due to a compressed oring on the rear oring it won't cause a major problem and won't leak externally.

The front seal is the rough one and a pretty poor design from BMW. The front seal has to seal both the valley pan to the timing cover AND the transfer pipe to the timing cover.

My engine recently met with a different type of disaster where it ended up hydro-locking the engine so I am currently in the process of replacing the engine due to a rod knock....

The problem with the expandable pipe is that it is very hard to clean out the surface where the seal goes without removing the timing cover. I just pulled mine apart and I can see where the shop really didn't do that great of a job. There was lots of corrosion that they failed to clean before installing the seal. I can see it with the engine on the stand but it would be hard to see with the engine in the car. It sealed for them but if it was any worse it might not have.

The bimmerfix solution works well if the seal from the transfer pipe to the timing cover is leaking on the front side of the seal. If the back side of the front seal which seals the valley pan to the timing cover is leaking then it won't work. Fortunately the weak spot on the seal is really on the front side which is why the bimmerfix solution works well.

Jeff at bimmerfix is a great guy to work with and the fix works for most people. I have installed the bimmerfix as a "belt and suspenders" fix with my X5 that had a URO pipe.

One of the companies that makes the expandable pipe should put an oring on their pipe on both the block and timing cover in addition to the stock hole.
This would require them to extend the front pope with a smaller step pipe similar to the bimmerfix extension....

If they did that then it would be a lot better solution! 3 seals rather than one would likely make it fully bulletproof. I think the stock surfaces are smooth enough but in some cases where housings have oxidization the extra orings could still fail so it is hard to be perfect here...

I have a URO pipe laying around so I am really torn between just doing the bimmerfix on the replacement engine I bought.

OR

Cutting out the old pipe and putting the URO pipe in. I can also do the URO pipe with bimmerfix once again as a belt and suspenders approach (requires a smaller bimmerfix stent for the URO pipe) but Jeff provides them on request.

Even with the engine on a stand putting a new stock style pipe in takes a bit of work. I will have to take off the main crank pulley (and I think main bolt) along with the upper timing covers and the oil pan (already plan to reseal that) to do it.

-Rich

Last edited by rbryantaz; 01-02-2019 at 01:50 PM.
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