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  #31  
Old 01-03-2019, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Just saw this: https://youtu.be/AiSx29P6gFo

It's a stent that seals from inside the water pump to the inside of the cooler transfer pipe: absolutely genius. I would so do this first if my M62 N62 was leaking from that pipe front seal.

I watched a couple N62 transfer pipe fixes and yikes how does the factory install the original? Unlike the M62 which basically falls out when you pull the timing cover/water pump mount. I couldn't see the seam for the timing cover.
That is what we have been talking about with the bimmerfix.

I was concerned about how it would help seal the pipe to the block but after thinking about it A LOT I think I have the answer...

While it doesn't seal the pipe to the block what it does is prevent the back side of the stock seal from failing if installed before that sealing surface fails. It does this by preventing the seal from being able to push out the front side (it always seems to fail on the front).

Based on that the bimmerfix method is best done preventatively. I just put one in and you can see where it is a nice tight fit and with the silicone bond it will prevent the seal from expanding and popping out the back side while also sealing the front side.

Name:  bimmerfix replacement engine.jpg
Views: 1574
Size:  82.0 KB

I would have to really consider filling the block side where the pipe goes through with ultra black if I did an expandable pipe and also doing a stent on the front side. That way it is fully sealed and basically bullet proof. For now I just resealed the stock pipe on an engine I am swapping into my rig.

I can always do a URO pipe at a later time if this were to fail.

-Rich
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  #32  
Old 01-03-2019, 06:05 PM
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Exactly my thought. I didn't look into the specifics but if you o-ring seal to the inside of the leaky pipe then you can seal to the inside or face of the original front seal. I would add rtv myself mostly to keep corrosion from working under the seal.
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  #33  
Old 01-04-2021, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryantaz View Post
That is what we have been talking about with the bimmerfix.

I was concerned about how it would help seal the pipe to the block but after thinking about it A LOT I think I have the answer...

While it doesn't seal the pipe to the block what it does is prevent the back side of the stock seal from failing if installed before that sealing surface fails. It does this by preventing the seal from being able to push out the front side (it always seems to fail on the front).

Based on that the bimmerfix method is best done preventatively. I just put one in and you can see where it is a nice tight fit and with the silicone bond it will prevent the seal from expanding and popping out the back side while also sealing the front side.

Attachment 75106

I would have to really consider filling the block side where the pipe goes through with ultra black if I did an expandable pipe and also doing a stent on the front side. That way it is fully sealed and basically bullet proof. For now I just resealed the stock pipe on an engine I am swapping into my rig.

I can always do a URO pipe at a later time if this were to fail.

-Rich
i'm curious, if you perform the bimmerfix mod as preventive, does this mean you do not have to upgrade to the AGA collapsible pipe i see many people talking about?
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  #34  
Old 01-04-2021, 05:03 PM
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The Bimmerfix pipe is not just preventive, it’s a repair for the front seal. The advantage is that you only need to pull the water pump for install.

The collapsible pipe is better if you’re willing to pull the intake manifold, and it repairs both the front and back seal.

Or, you can pull the whole engine and keep the stock pipe and just replace the o ring seals. Until you have to change them again in 8 years.
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  #35  
Old 01-04-2021, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stiubhartach View Post
The Bimmerfix pipe is not just preventive, it’s a repair for the front seal. The advantage is that you only need to pull the water pump for install.

The collapsible pipe is better if you’re willing to pull the intake manifold, and it repairs both the front and back seal.

Or, you can pull the whole engine and keep the stock pipe and just replace the o ring seals. Until you have to change them again in 8 years.
When I looked at it the back seal isn't as critical. If it were to leak a little due to shrinking, plasticizing, etc it wouldn't matter. As long as it "mostly" sealed on that oring it would be fine. I am pretty sure I remember there even being a small hole in the block where it allowed water to flow into the valley right next to the back seal. So it really isn't a full seal, wouldn't cause an external leak.
If the rear oring seal wasn't there it would however allow the pipe to move and destroy the front seal. So it indirectly matters but a perfect seal didn't seem important.

The bimmer fix should work if the seal isn't completely gone but I agree that a new seal is better than relying only on the RTV seal between the stint/front cover/pipe.

I think the bimmerfix is a good product in that based on pictures that I have seen these seals seem to fail when they get pushed out into the water pump. With the bimmerfix stint it should both prevent that (keeping the oring seal intact) and also provide the RTV seal.

So doing it as preventative is much more robust than waiting for the oring to fail because it can prevent the oring from failing by not allowing it to be pushed out from the back side.

I got great support from the bimmerfix guy. I did the fix on my engine with the uro pipe first and then when I changed the engine I needed a new undersized stint to do both fixes on. I called and he provided it right away with no charge and even shipped for free.

-Rich
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  #36  
Old 01-04-2021, 05:59 PM
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Both the seals are equally critical, they’re just o rings on the ends of a pipe. And they both have weep holes to allow seepage to exit the engine. You don’t want leaking coolant to stay in the engine.

But you’re correct that the front one fails more frequently and prevention using the stent pipe is prudent and can stabilize sketchy seals. TheBimmerfix pipe is a good product and I’d start with that if the rear seal isn’t leaking yet.
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  #37  
Old 01-04-2021, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stiubhartach View Post
Both the seals are equally critical, they’re just o rings on the ends of a pipe. And they both have weep holes to allow seepage to exit the engine. You don’t want leaking coolant to stay in the engine.

But you’re correct that the front one fails more frequently and prevention using the stent pipe is prudent and can stabilize sketchy seals. TheBimmerfix pipe is a good product and I’d start with that if the rear seal isn’t leaking yet.
Are you sure that the rear one can really cause an external leak through a weep hole?

I scrapped my original block so I am relying on memory.
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  #38  
Old 01-11-2021, 04:41 PM
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There is an much easier fix for the coolant pipe leak issue. It's called BimmerFix. You install a stent into the timing chain cover. It is much more inexpensive than the other options for stopping the leak.
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  #39  
Old 01-11-2021, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mills2001 View Post
There is an much easier fix for the coolant pipe leak issue. It's called BimmerFix. You install a stent into the timing chain cover. It is much more inexpensive than the other options for stopping the leak.
Yes that is what the last few posts are about.

I also would say that it should be preventative because if the seal is bad enough then the bimmerfix is less likely to work.

Any N62 that I ever own will have a bimmerfix put into it even if it already has a collapsible pipe or a new seal. It can keep the seal from failing by not letting the seal push out into the water pump.

From when I was looking at it...

If you only seal the front housing with the bimmerfix and there is no oring seal at all then it really only seals the pipe to the waterpump. It could still leak between the outside of the pipe and the timing cover and block.

Its then relying on the timing cover gasket to some extent to prevent the leak between the outside of the pipe and the block...

If you do it before the stock seal fails then that isn't a concern. The stock seal would not push out due to the stent holding it in place which makes it much less likely that the back side of the seal will fail (but any seal can fail on a car eventually).

What I recall about the rear cover is that the rear seal is between the pipe and block but the outlet goes into the water housing. There was then a relief hole in the block that bypasses the coolant pipe anyway that lets water into the rear husing around the pipe so if that seal failed it would not leak externally and would just potentially let it bypass more water. If it bypassed all of the water then it probably wouldn't cool well at all due to no pressure differential. My memory is less firm on this but it was my thought at the time from looking it over (I could have missed something).

-Rich

Last edited by rbryantaz; 01-11-2021 at 06:41 PM.
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  #40  
Old 01-11-2021, 09:46 PM
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This is the perfect thread! I was just looking for more info and tips on replacing this on mine.
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