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  #11  
Old 01-09-2014, 01:15 PM
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I'd put it in, drive around for a day or two, and park it the next day after driving it and change the oil hot with a new filter, and I'd replace the oil filter cap at your mileage as well.
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  #12  
Old 01-09-2014, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProfessorX5 View Post
Yeah, I figure ebay is my only hope. :P
Try autohausaz dot com. A good source for bmw maintenance items, and source for my recent order for filters, etc., which included the MOS2 antifriction oil additive. I expect they can ship across the border .....
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  #13  
Old 01-09-2014, 04:50 PM
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Found a place here that carries it!

Hmm.. yeah, I should replace the cap, too.

Should I swap out the CCV and hoses before then, just so I don't go fouling my oil with whatever's gunked up in there?
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  #14  
Old 01-09-2014, 04:52 PM
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Up to you, doing just an oil change, or adding a CCV job is two totally different scenarios. Are you having CCV problems now? I'd run that oil change and engine flush through before changing out the CCV, see if it helps.
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2003 X5 3.0i 5-Speed - Born on 9/18/2003
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2013 X5 35D (CEO's) - Born on 5/17/2013 -
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  #15  
Old 01-09-2014, 05:03 PM
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You have a lot of kms on that vehicle. Do you have service history indicating whether a ccv replacement has been done? Have you lifted the valve cover to check appearance to assess whether its gunky? absent symptoms, particularly this time of year in the cold blue north, I would run the Lubro Moly cleaner through the system [add to a warm crankcase, idle for 10-20 minutes, then drain] then do the oil change w/Lubro Moly additive. And wait for Spring before going further, unless I had a warm, well-lit garage [and plenty of time] in which to work .....
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Old 01-09-2014, 05:06 PM
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and maybe use the high-detergent Pennzoil Euro Ultra oil with the change, to maximize cleaning during the next oil cycle, which you might want to make relatively short ....
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  #17  
Old 01-09-2014, 05:30 PM
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Hmm... good points... I suspect CCV issues because of filler cap mayo lately. The CCV hoses look like they've been around a while. The VCG was done prior to my purchase, but don't know whether the dealer bothered to clean up in there. The oil got dirty real quick after changing it 2k km ago, so I suspect there's some yuckiness going on in there.

The oil in there right now is Castrol Edge 5w40, but I'm looking at other options including the one you've mentioned, as well as LubroMoly and Rotella. Whichever way, I'll change the oil again in the spring just for cleansing purposes.
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  #18  
Old 01-09-2014, 05:42 PM
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i bought 20 liters of LM 5-40 oil in 4 jars, 5 liters each... cost me about $140 delivered... I had two empty 1qt bottles from Castrol synthetic oil, so I poured two qts from one of the LM jars into the small bottles, which gave me about 3 liters left in one jar, took it to local Jiffy Lube, had them drain the old oil, put my OE filter i got from my dealer (about $15), and put about 8 liters of LM into the car... 8 liters is slightly under the full capacity of V8 but is still within the operating range of the engine... In couple of days I've checked the dipstick on hot motor, the oil was in the middle between the notches... checked in couple thousand miles, was at lower notch, added 1 qt from the "saved" bottle, it brought the level to middle mark... checked in couple thousand miles again, at bottom notch - added the second "saved" bottle... will be changing the oil in couple of thousand mile from that point, which puts me at 6000 miles interval... this time I do not have any additives in the engine - i had run LM engine flush on two occasions and the Auto-RX... at the last oil change the Jiffy Lube guys thought that i was dumping fresh oil, as the old oil still looked good...

ordered my LM oil online, was delivered by UPS in 2 days, even though it was the Super Saver...

I can look up the seller on ebay and PM you the name
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  #19  
Old 01-09-2014, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by campy82 View Post
Consensus of engine flushes like these?
Not recommended.

If you use a good quality oil, you don't require additional cleansers. On the other hand, if a vehicle has been badly abused and the engine is dirty, then trying these cleaners is an alternative before opening up the engine, especially since it often isn't worth opening it up.

Downsides are potential reactions and damage to seals, gaskets, and plastics, and the risk that crud that is loosened shifts and does some damage.

Since the cleaners can bring all the contaminants into suspension, the usual practice would be to add them to the old oil, run the engine for 15 minutes or so but don't take it above idle, then drain it out and put fresh oil and a new filter in. I wouldn't leave it in and drive it.
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  #20  
Old 01-09-2014, 06:25 PM
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"Since the cleaners can bring all the contaminants into suspension, the usual practice would be to add them to the old oil, run the engine for 15 minutes or so but don't take it above idle, then drain it out and put fresh oil and a new filter in. I wouldn't leave it in and drive it."

That's the protocol for the lubro moly cleaner product. The oil additive - included in the 'clean' fill - is a moly supplement rather than a cleaner. The higher detergent oils [the Pennzoil Ultra Euro, or even more so, Ricky Bobby's diesel fave, Rotella T-6] add to the cleaning during the next oil cycle. If the vehicle has been abused, really gunking up the engine, agree that these aren't the cure, but that doesn't seem to be the OP's issue.
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