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  #31  
Old 02-06-2014, 04:09 PM
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bcredliner - head work? In my 86 mustang 5.0 it is easy to just tear the engine down and put it back together. I know the BMW engines are well built but not sure once they have been torn down, rode hard and put up wet!

Yes, RACINGBMW there is a chance the engine is shot completely but it was only run without full pressure for about a mile. However, it was enough to take out two lifters and a head so anything is possible.

I am taking a chance with it but I expect to have it gone before that happens. It seems to be running great, but I have not had it more than 24 hours since the end of October so tomorrow will be a good sign if it is still running. HA! Anything that happens soon the shop will have a hard time dismissing as their fault.

Time will tell and hopefully it won't be mine then. Too bad, I really loved this car and searched for some time to find all the options.
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  #32  
Old 02-06-2014, 05:25 PM
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BMW's are fine with being torn down and put back together assuming its done properly. The one thing they don't like is overheating. The aluminum blocks turn to scrap metal if overheated enough; head bolts won't tighten down because metal has softened, and subsequent thread repairs are only a short lived fix, those too will eventually pull out.

I'd just be worried more than I should about the no oil deal. Having run on nothing but synthetic it probably isn't a big deal for a short distance and not heavily loaded. I heard a story from one of my foreman that an E30 M3 hit some debris on the freeway knocking a hole in the oil pan. Customer drove the car to the dealership 20+ miles with the oil lights on, still running ok. When they pulled the damaged pan to replace it, it was basically dry. They pulled the head to inspect the cylinders and didn't find sufficient wear to justify a rebuild. Put it back together, ran great. This was before synthetic oil even...I'd like to think our engines are just as durable...
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  #33  
Old 02-06-2014, 05:29 PM
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You are in Memphis, right? You might check your local BMWCCA chapter or bimmershops.com for a second opinion indy shop, rather than a dealer. Bimmershops lists 3 shops in Memphis. I don't know which if any is a good bimmer engine shop ....
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  #34  
Old 02-06-2014, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racingbmwm3 View Post
BMW's are fine with being torn down and put back together assuming its done properly. The one thing they don't like is overheating. The aluminum blocks turn to scrap metal if overheated enough; head bolts won't tighten down because metal has softened, and subsequent thread repairs are only a short lived fix, those too will eventually pull out.

I'd just be worried more than I should about the no oil deal. Having run on nothing but synthetic it probably isn't a big deal for a short distance and not heavily loaded. I heard a story from one of my foreman that an E30 M3 hit some debris on the freeway knocking a hole in the oil pan. Customer drove the car to the dealership 20+ miles with the oil lights on, still running ok. When they pulled the damaged pan to replace it, it was basically dry. They pulled the head to inspect the cylinders and didn't find sufficient wear to justify a rebuild. Put it back together, ran great. This was before synthetic oil even...I'd like to think our engines are just as durable...

That was an E30 and probably an S14, handbuilt... those were BMWs... the real warriors... what we have now are soft grandchildren of those great warriors - couch videogame warriors... lol...
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  #35  
Old 02-06-2014, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TerminatorX5 View Post
That was an E30 and probably an S14, handbuilt... those were BMWs... the real warriors... what we have now are soft grandchildren of those great warriors - couch videogame warriors... lol...
Yes, an S14. I count the S54, S65, S85 as comparably 'proper' BMW performance engines. Those are from the 'track warrior' side of the family.

S62 is barely an M engine, similar to how the S50/52 was not exactly an M engine. Those are the 'weekend track warrior's.

Our cars are from the much larger 'daily commute warrior' side of family.
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  #36  
Old 02-06-2014, 06:54 PM
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Unless you are set on selling it I would drive it for a 1000 miles and then have another good indy shop do a compression check, a leak down test, a smoke pressure test and a pressure test on the cooling system. By that time you will know if it is using oil and if the oil pressure is up to snuff. That should give you some warm fuzzies that this issue is history.
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  #37  
Old 02-07-2014, 04:06 PM
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Thanks for all the info. I am going to drive it and see how it does. There are a couple of other indy shops other than the one i used that I can go too. I know the old service manager at the stealership and he told me he still knew the mechanics and would make sure they took a good look at it for me if i took it there.

In defense of the indy shop i used, they did stand by their work and finally, i think get it taken care of. Owning a business myself, i was that one customer a year that everything goes wrong.

if it makes it through the weekend that will be a very good sign. Just need it to warm up so i can replace the other air bag that is leaking and change the front breaks.
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  #38  
Old 02-07-2014, 04:42 PM
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.1 decrease 0-60 time = $1000 & DIY
 
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Good luck!
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  #39  
Old 02-07-2014, 06:36 PM
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You've had a rare experience with what is probably an even rarer repair shop- they stood up an were accountable for their error. The best mark of a good business is usually how well they recover from an error. It brings up a good question to be asked when interviewing who can work on your car- do they have mechanical liability insurance to cover these type of things. Only the best of the best will be able to buy this coverage.
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  #40  
Old 03-04-2014, 05:09 PM
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I have put about 100 miles on her since the engine rebuild. No issues other than the transmission but maybe by next week I can really drive her and see how she is.
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