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  #21  
Old 02-24-2014, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stunt View Post
Pulling the transmission is a pre-requisite for getting the engine out, at least according to the Bentley manual. This suits me fine since it has issues too. When I start the car, I almost always get the "TRANS FAILSAFE PROG" message on the dash, and only have 1 forward gear and reverse. When the transmission is warn and I start the engine, I only get that message 50% of the time. I also often get the "kick in the back" on the 2-1 downshift when coming to a full stop at a light.

It all started after I did the transmission fluid drain and filter change last summer. The old oil was pretty nasty and there were some deposits in the pan, but nothing too crazy looking. I did top off the flying once in the fall, it was about a quart low, but that did not fix the problem. So yes, I plan to tear into the transmission as well. I have never done one before, so I'm a little hesitant to do it myself. I'm going to see about getting some quotes from local transmission shops on having it rebuilt. Not sure if they will provide a warranty since I'm the one that will be re-installing it...
I have not been into that section of the Bentley so didn't know it had to come apart. I'd 100% do the rear seal then and have that converter checked since it will be open.

Good luck!
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  #22  
Old 02-24-2014, 02:25 PM
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quick note from the pic i saw, i don't think you want to lay the radiator fans flat, leave them vertical to prevent any viscous fluid leaking out from them or out of position which will ruin them. (not sure if the front Electrical fan has this setup but the other definitely does.)
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  #23  
Old 02-24-2014, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcredliner View Post
Looking forward to your progress.

What capacity is you lift? Is the concrete normal slab thickness?
The lift is rated for 9000 lbs. There's a support brace along the top between the 2 posts and also carries the hydraulic hose to the cylinder ram on the post opposite the one with the motor on it. The steel cables to sync the 2 rams also go through it.

As for slap thickness, it is around 10", so way more than the normal 6". This was not really by choice just because the guys the poured the slap were too lazy to put down enough #57 rock to bring the bottom to within 6" of finished grade.

I have had my Chevy dually on the lift many times. It weigh about 8,200 lbs empty, being crew cab long bed. So the X5 is nothing.
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  #24  
Old 02-24-2014, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OptimusPriM5 View Post
One thing to note on the strengthener plate...make you you order new bolts for that as well if you havent already those are torque to yield. Changed mine last year and found that out from this site as well.
Lol. I'm well aware of this. I have already been through 2 new sets. First time was when I did the transmission oil pan when changing the filter. The 2nd time was when I dropped the engine oil pan to fix the oil drain plug.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that when I order my 3rd set of 6 bolts, it will be the last set!

I too picked up on that from this forum.
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  #25  
Old 02-24-2014, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonycajjo View Post
quick note from the pic i saw, i don't think you want to lay the radiator fans flat, leave them vertical to prevent any viscous fluid leaking out from them or out of position which will ruin them. (not sure if the front Electrical fan has this setup but the other definitely does.)
Thanks! I'll stand it up as soon as I get home tonight.
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  #26  
Old 02-24-2014, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stunt View Post
The lift is rated for 9000 lbs. There's a support brace along the top between the 2 posts and also carries the hydraulic hose to the cylinder ram on the post opposite the one with the motor on it. The steel cables to sync the 2 rams also go through it.

As for slap thickness, it is around 10", so way more than the normal 6". This was not really by choice just because the guys the poured the slap were too lazy to put down enough #57 rock to bring the bottom to within 6" of finished grade.

I have had my Chevy dually on the lift many times. It weigh about 8,200 lbs empty, being crew cab long bed. So the X5 is nothing.
Thanks for info.
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  #27  
Old 02-24-2014, 02:47 PM
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Just got back from Autozone where I ordered this engine support beam for when I drop the transmission:



I could have probably rigged something with a 4x4, but I think this will be much safer.

Also, the Bentley manual calls for disconnecting the fuel line at the fuel filter and putting a camp on it. Recalling how big a pain it was to pull the fuel tank shield to replace the fuel filter, I decided to skip this step. No problem at all disconnecting the fuel line at the engine. There was no residual fuel pressure when I did so. Of course the truck has been sitting for 2 weeks since the last time the ignition had been turned on, so that may have had something to do with it, but that saved a good 30 minutes of labor right there.
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  #28  
Old 02-24-2014, 06:06 PM
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Updated list as follows:
  • Timing Chain Guides: Deflection Rail 11311741777, Guide Rail 11311745406, Chain Tensioner Rail 11311741236, Chain Tensioner Rod 11317531813, O-ring 11421713597
  • Upper timing case cover gaskets 11141741532, 11141741533
  • Upper timing case gasket ring 11141736758
  • Upper timing case O-rings 12141748398
  • Lower timing case cover gasket set 11141436978
  • Lower timing case Dowels (2) 11121726242
  • Vanos Seals
  • Intake Manifold Gasket (4) 11611433328
  • Front Manifold Gasket (Intake to Manifold) 11611729727
  • Rear Manifold Gasket (CCV to Manifold) 11611729728
  • Rear Coolant manifold gasket (2) 11531731833
  • Water Pump Rear Pipe O-rings 11531710048, 11531710055
  • Valley Pan Gasket
  • CCV hoses
  • Oil Seperator 11151705237
  • Oil Return Hose 11151438302
  • Oil Return Hose 11157560068
  • Vent hose 11157556837
  • Vent hose 11157556838
  • Replace VCGs
  • Lubricate steering knuckle
  • Check/Replace Engine Mounts
  • Clean drain tube

Looking at realoem, I'm not sure if I should also be replacing the upper timing chain tensioners (11311435026 and 11311435027), and I'm not sure I'm seeing any Vanos "seals" per se.
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  #29  
Old 02-24-2014, 06:15 PM
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From what I have read these are the way to go when doing Vanos:
G.A.S. BMW VANOS System Products

edit
Sorry not for N62.
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Last edited by e30cabrio; 02-24-2014 at 06:29 PM.
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  #30  
Old 02-24-2014, 06:31 PM
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That's for the M54 kit. Here is the link to Beisan directly with the M62tu kit and full repair instructions. Read the instructions before ordering, then decide what tools you want to purchase/rent at the same time as ordering.
Beisan Systems - Products
Instructions here:
Beisan Systems - Procedures - M62TU Vanos Procedure

I personally wouldn't worry about the upper tensioners, but then again, you will already be there so it can only help extend the amount of time before the front end needs to be looked at again
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