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  #51  
Old 06-13-2014, 12:14 AM
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If you have an air compressor, then make your own cap (Volvo ATE Cap).

And as mentioned above, never allow the reservoir to go empty during bleeding.

I wrote the detailed procedure for my E39 (1998 528i) below:


DIY: 1-man Hydraulic Bleeding Kit for those with Air Compressor!
DIY: 1-man Hydraulic Bleeding Kit for those with Air Compressor! - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums
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  #52  
Old 06-13-2014, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LVP View Post
Should say HACK mechanic for 43 yrs!

If a mechanic pulled my master cyl without first covering the surrounding area with plastic/shop towels I would give him a boot to the shorts!

Brake fluid strips paint off metal.

Doing a DIY vid for noobs needs proper info, like information about torque wrench use (for noobs who think "if I can still turn it, it not tight enough").
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  #53  
Old 06-13-2014, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiAgX5 View Post
Should say HACK mechanic for 43 yrs!

If a mechanic pulled my master cyl without first covering the surrounding area with plastic/shop towels I would give him a boot to the shorts!

Brake fluid strips paint off metal.

Doing a DIY vid for noobs needs proper info, like information about torque wrench use (for noobs who think "if I can still turn it, it not tight enough").
Given the condition of the interior (torn seat, exposed foam) I kinda doubt it if the exterior is in any better shape.

Mechanic for 43 years because people are too cheap to bring it in to a ASE mechanic.
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  #54  
Old 06-13-2014, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
Given the condition of the interior (torn seat, exposed foam) I kinda doubt it if the exterior is in any better shape......
There's NEVER an excuse to give a customers vehicle back in worse condition (paint stripped sheet metal, too cheap to use a 10c plastic sheet).

I wonder how many new DIYers stripped master cyl studs/cracked castings from over-torquing.

Hack DIYING is easy, totally desregards the details, that's where the devil is.
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  #55  
Old 06-13-2014, 05:29 PM
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I laughed at that video - it was classic.

An update for those following:
The indy shop swapped in another master and re-bled. Same issues remain. He has a BMW tech from the dealer over to assess as it had the whole shop scratching their heads. The tech said the shop has done everything the dealer would have done and then some. Apparently there is a line that they feel could have air trapped. Older or newer models (I can't recall which he said) had a bleed section or fitting in that line (I looked at several X5 versions on realoem and couldn't find one that had one, but those diagrams aren't always exactly what you see under the hood). Next week , he's going to insert a fitting to bleed and have a go at it again.

The saga continues. I'll keep updating as I know. Good thing I have a back-up set of wheels……

Cheers.
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  #56  
Old 06-20-2014, 05:58 PM
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Well, get your popcorn out.

A quick recap - I did new pads (OE) and rotors (ECS cross drilled/slotted), pumped clean fluid through with a pressure bleeder. Pedal was mushy, and with vehicle on and pressure on pedal, would sink to the floor. I had to take the car in to get them to do some PITA bushings and the coolant tank that exploded, so I had the indy shop look at the brakes too.

These guys have done BMWs for the past 25 years or so. They did everything - pressure, vacuum, pedal, replaced master, software and every combination of the latter. Pedal still sunk very slowly. This was a "fit it in when you have time" kind of arrangement, so it took 4 weeks to go through all this (plus the bushings, suspension and other stuff).

It really had the guys baffled. They brought in guys from the dealer and no other insight. Here's the head scratcher - they proceeded to do the "vehicle on, pedal test" with any X5 that graced the shop over the 4 weeks. They found the same thing with 5 others. When I picked mine up, I tested the pedal on a 4.8 that just pulled in and another 4.4 - same bloody thing. I can't explain the voodoo magic, but they feel ok (not as solid as before I did all this), so we'll see how they bed in and test out over the next few weeks.

So, to prove this whole mess wrong, go out, fire yours up, apply moderate to firm pressure on the pedal and see if she slowly starts to drift down. It is farther than normal braking, so I don't notice an issue when driving, just when parked and doing this. I'd be interested to see how many experience the same. I did read this on another thread somewhere, and couldn't believe it, but I sat in two others and the mechanic did the same. Head scratcher for sure.

Cheers.
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  #57  
Old 07-07-2018, 03:51 AM
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Wow, my ass crack is sweating.

6 pages and no fix?

I made the mistake of thinking replacing the brake booster (which requires removal and drainage of the mcyl etc) would be straightforward. There is no way to get away from this job without introducing at least some air into the circuit. I thought with the right software (I have both INPA and ISTA) this would be trivial. Boy was I wrong.

After spending a week trying to bleed with 2-man pedal method and getting nowhere (pedal goes RIGHT to floor, virtually no resistance) I sprang for a Schwaben pressure bleeder. Almost right away I got a ton of air (kinda like frothy brake fluid) out of the front right and front left lines, and pedal feel improved considerably. Some air came out of the rears but not much.

Its fairly hard with the car off, but as soon as I start the car (and the vacuum assist kicks in) the pedal sinks almost to the floor. For the first 80% of the travel of the brake pedal, I have NO BRAKES. Then at 85% or so, car starts to slow, and if I press it to 90-95% of travel the brakes will lock. So the brakes work, just not for the first 80-85% of pedal travel!

I am fortunate to have a gravel driveway so I pulled some serious hard brake skids, went back and bled it. Not much (if any) air comes out; pedal is like mush.

Pulling my hair out - where to from here??? I see a couple of you have been to the dealer who couldn't figure this out either!!
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  #58  
Old 07-07-2018, 06:49 AM
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You got air between the abs pump and the brake system. Under normal condition, the ABS pump is not a factor in braking, it is only when one of the wheel sensors signal the ABS computer that it is not in synch with the other wheel sensors, that is when the ABS computer instruct the ABS pump to start pulsing the wheel that is not in synch with the other wheel (Normally a wheel is out of synch when it locks up). That is why to use the ABS system you need to stand on the brake so that the system can work.

You will need to get a scanner that that can auto bleed the ABS module.

Here a video on using an auto bleed scanner. Note that when he auto bleed the module he has his foot to the floor on the brake pedal. Are you guy doing this with INPA?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUqmBqYIEAE
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BMW 525IT Sold
Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold
Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold
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Last edited by upallnight; 07-07-2018 at 06:58 AM.
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  #59  
Old 07-07-2018, 06:54 AM
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Exclamation

Right but if I use the ISTA-D software service functions to run the bleeding routine won't the system cycle the ABS/DSC pumps for me to let me bleed these components as well?

Here's what it looks like in the software:
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  #60  
Old 07-07-2018, 07:02 AM
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When you auto bleed are you putting the brake pedal to the floor?
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Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered
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PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen
Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids
BMW 525IT Sold
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Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD
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