DIY: 2006 X5 3.0i Spark Plugs using NGK Iridium BKR6EIX

[270_BMW]

Just a heads up... NGK says specifically on an aluminum block not to use anti-seize... danger of over-torquing the plugs.

[cn90]

- Look up what torque necessary to strip the cylinder head threads.
Go to junk yard and play with spark plug and threads, it takes way beyond 100 ft*lb to cause any damage.

- Google that topic (what torque can cause cylinder head damage).

- I have been using anti-seize for 20 years using the same torque, zero issues.
If you are worried, you can reduce the torque a bit, let's say the book states 18 ft*lb, then with antiseize, reduce it to 16 ft*lb or something like that.

[270_BMW]

Sounds good! Thanks for the additional info!

[jgold47]

dont quote me but if you go back to the, gappable, copper plug specs for m52/m50 engines which still used copper, I think its the same spec since the +4's are cross compatible.

[tonycajjo]

i think i'm just gonna go with the NGK BKR6EQUP plugs. i dont feel like dealing with ignition issues or fiddling with proper gap on an iridium plug. Putting in any new plug is gonna feel better. I haven't found any real evidence that a plug will make any difference in this engine and with the fuel i'm using.

[StephenVA]

The recommended gap is .32 for fine wire plugs like Iridium. This plug technology has been coming on strong ever since Champion introduced the H.O.T. plugs way back in early 1990s, that were fine wire with the side electrode back filled with copper so the plugs ran hotter at idle (smoother idle, less fouling, etc) and 200 degrees colder at wide open operations (no detonation due to poor cyl fuel mixtures of the day).

The fine wire plugs like the NGK Iridium IX open up the spark area to allow cleaner firing of the fuel mixture in the cylinder. The end results (as the center electrodes do not wear as fast as the older three and four prong plugs due to the precious metals used) are better tip in acceleration, smoother idle, and some better performance and economy.

With that said ANY plug/brand/configuration that is the right heat range, that fits the hole and will not hit the piston is better than that worn out OE plug at 100K.

Review the plug manufacturer's websites for more info. There are LOTS of errors on vendor websites who distribute or retail plugs. Go to the source of info. Our owners manuals are indeed 15 year old now so they can only show what was available in the year or two before production started.
NGK NGK Spark Plugs USA
Bosch Home | Bosch Auto Parts
Champion Champion Spark Plugs
Stay away from the wacko plug brands you will be happier

For the V8 the NGK Iridium IX installed, provide all the improvements as advertised.

SPECIAL NOTE: Buy a plug gaping tool as plugs are gaped at the factory to something that MAY NOT be your settings and plugs are DROPPED all along the way so who knows what it is when you open the box.

From NGK website
The Spark Plug Serious Enthusiasts Rely On

Designed specifically for the performance enthusiast. Iridium IX® offers extreme ignitability, improved throttle response and superior anti fouling

Fine Iridium tip ensures high durability and a consistently stable spark
Iridium alloy has extremely high melting point, perfect for today’s high-tech, high-performance engines
Trivalent Metal Plating - superior anti-corrosion and anti-seizing properties
Outstanding acceleration, high fuel efficiency and durability
Ultimate design, technology and performance.

[tonycajjo]

I'll give the NGK BKR6EIX plugs a shot. they are less expensive as well.

[StephenVA]

Tip and Trick for those who have the REPLACEABLE coil to plug boots. Replace them at 80-100K (OR 10 years) as the resistance will grow until the plug will not fire as the boot resistance exceeds the coil's output. They just twist and pull off. They are nothing but a really short plug wire. Later models have molded boots that do NOT come off. Images below...

The first indication is poor idle and miss fires in high load situations (part throttle hill climbs)

Cheap part but make sure you match up coil brand/manufacture to the boot you are buying. (Bremi/Bosch)

More images BMW E53 X5 M54 3.0L Engine Ignition - ECS Tuning

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by StephenVA

Tip and Trick for those who have the REPLACEABLE coil to plug boots. Replace them at 80-100K (OR 10 years) as the resistance will grow until the plug will not fire as the boot resistance exceeds the coil's output. They just twist and pull off. They are nothing but a really short plug wire. Later models have molded boots that do NOT come off. Images below...

The first indication is poor idle and miss fires in high load situations (part throttle hill climbs)

Cheap part but make sure you match up coil brand/manufacture to the boot you are buying. (Bremi/Bosch)

More images BMW E53 X5 M54 3.0L Engine Ignition - ECS Tuning

Not sure what your saying here. Are you saying to replace all 6 COPS?

[cn90]

- The rubber boots crack after 150K or so, and they are cheap.
- The ignition coils: replace them only when they go bad. Best is to buy a few used coils on ebay and leave them in the trunk as spare. You can swap them in the middle of nowhere w/o any special tool.