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  #1  
Old 12-22-2014, 01:05 PM
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Rear differential: 3.0 manual vs. automatic difference

Is the only difference in these units the output shafts? They are different part numbers for certain. But the ratios are the same...and they appear to bolt up to the transfer case output driveshaft the same.

If using one for the other is only a matter of output shafts, that would be convenient for replacement.
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Old 12-29-2014, 07:56 PM
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I was going to have a 3.0 auto diff shipped with flanges to see if I could get it to bolt up, but the guy I won the eBay auction from is trying to be helpful and find the "right part" and hasn't shopped the unit.
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Old 12-30-2014, 12:57 PM
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that sux.

I'd almost just open an ebay dispute to cancel the transaction so you can try to purchase a different item #...or at least persuade him to just ship you what you won.

been driving mine for two weeks now with no issue with the cv joint popping back out.

*runs and hides and crosses fingers and knocks on wood*
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Old 12-31-2014, 02:41 PM
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They shipped, but it is not likely to get here for this weekend. We shall see. Apparently to protect themselves from people who knowingly or unknowingly waste their time and money ordering parts that don't fit, they have to have the last 7 of your VIN.

But, as I told him, an output flange ordered from ECS with the last seven of my VIN didn't fit in the least...so who even knows what's under there.

I could even just put the guts of the *new* one in mine, and use the flanges that come with it and hope they bolt to my axle shafts. I don't know. If I can't get this thing roadworthy soon I'll have to just get a new car, which I hate doing.

I hope to have the answer to this thread when I try to put an auto unit into my manual and see what sort of awesome havoc that causes.
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Old 12-31-2014, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lo_jack View Post
Is the only difference in these units the output shafts? They are different part numbers for certain. But the ratios are the same...and they appear to bolt up to the transfer case output driveshaft the same.

If using one for the other is only a matter of output shafts, that would be convenient for replacement.
I thought the ratios were different between the auto & manual equipped X5s. The manual 3.0 I owned had 4.10 gearing; pretty sure I remember seeing somewhere on this forum that the autos generally had 3.64 or something like that. Some guys with manual transmissions have swapped in front & rear diffs salvaged from automatic X5s to get a different ratio, so I think either should bolt up. but it's the ratio that is different.

Here's a thread that talks about swapping differentials, although the diffs that the poster used came from a 4.4 engined X5. http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...l-swap-go.html
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Last edited by davintosh; 12-31-2014 at 05:05 PM.
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Old 12-31-2014, 06:45 PM
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Automatic 4.4's have 3.64 gearing. All 3.0 regardless of transmission have 4.10 gearing, supposedly for better acceleration. Members with 3.0's have done 4.4 X5 diffs swaps to get the lower gearing and gain some serious mpg
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Old 01-02-2015, 01:16 AM
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Yes I read all of those threads, and tried to reach out directly to Green Dragon (his PMs are full).

I also know that all the ratios for each engine are different. All 3.0s are 4.10 ratio. So that's no problem.

However....

The autos and manuals have different bolt circles for the output shafts. The axle shafts themselves are maybe an 1/8 of an inch different in length (autos are longer units). Still, nothing there that is a problem...if you have the right axleshafts and output shafts. Axles are $50.

But the thing I am worried about now is why are there different parts in the first place? I have a bad feeling that the diff units might have slightly different length input shafts, in which case an auto will not bolt up to a manual.

From looking at Realoem, it looks like the driveshafts are different, but I can't tell that the differential housings are any different. So the outputs are slightly different for some unknown reason- but you can make that work.

If the difference in length of the system is made up for at all in the input yoke and not just the driveshaft (from auto to manual) then this isn't going to work.
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Old 01-02-2015, 11:47 AM
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See this thread and pm sedc, as he was the first one to do it successfully. GD is following in his footsteps.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...ted-slips.html

Specifically, post #17. You'll notice a familiar face asking a similar question on post #16
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Old 01-02-2015, 12:22 PM
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I read and reread that thread too, but it was not definitive on some of the details that were fringe for that project. The part that worries me most he addressed with "may have to change pinion flange."

I am prepared to change outputs, as he mentioned: the housing I am getting comes with the original outputs, and since those have a different bolt circle than manual CVs as far as I can tell...I have some of those too.

The pinion flange thing we shall see about. Realoem says the difference in driveshaft length from manual to auto is 4mm - 1273 to 1277, the longer being the manual. That might be close enough to get rolling and put a true fix on post hoc and still be rolling. But it might not.
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Old 01-21-2015, 06:28 PM
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Just a little update, since I swapped my differential, among other things. I have yet to actually drive it...the battery is dead. But everything is back together and torqued down.

1) The auto and manual 3.0 output flanges seem to vary only slightly.
A: total length is marginally different (a few MM).
B: the bolt pattern (measured from directly opposing holes) is a few MM off. The auto is slightly narrower, which means it will not bolt to a manual CV joint, and the reinforcement brackets do not swap.
C: The six oxide bolts that connect the halfshaft to the output flange are different. Autos have internal hex heads and manuals have external torx heads. Torque specs are different.

2) The manual flanges will go right into the auto diff, and my car now has one of each in it, since I had an episode with one of the new auto CV bearings puking its cage and ball bearings all over the garage floor. I got one from ECS that was supposed to be VIN matched to my car, which was really huge (length and splined diameter) and did not fit either differential.

3) The main driveshaft bolted straight up to the auto diff.
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