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#1
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While Removing Vanos...Cracked Head....Need Advice
Could you take a look at the attached pictures and recommend if there's anything I can do other than replacing? Thank you, |
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#2
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If you don't replace it, I don't see any way you wont have constant oil leaks and be plagued with more problems.
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02 e53 X5 3.0i Manual Trans 13 e70 X5 xDrive35i 04 Honda S2000 |
#3
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clean it really well and hit it with some jb weld, squish some into the crack if you can. I'd put the bolt in that hole and build it back up with jb weld as well and then remove the bolt once its good and cured. then I'd just be careful with it when you install the bolt.
use silicon on gasket at that mating surface side and give it a shot. if it leaks, then I'd tackle the head replacement. at least you could drive the car even with the leak while you source another head. |
#4
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Ouch!
You can get a used head for about $300 (I use car-parts.com to find used parts). I wouldn't take chances with a temp repair. The new gaskets and head bolts will cost another $100-$150 or so (just a guess). Its hard to say exactly, but I think you are risking a pretty big failure if a temp repair fails and the VANOS pops out while you are running. It is pressurized with engine oil, so the worst case is something like pumping all the oil out of your engine...
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David.X5 2001 X5 4.4i Sport SOLD! at 160k miles |
#5
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Sounds like a good way to start a fire...
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02 e53 X5 3.0i Manual Trans 13 e70 X5 xDrive35i 04 Honda S2000 |
#6
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A talented welder might be able to grind out the crack and TIG weld it back into shape. You need to remove material in order for a decent weld penetration though, and it would depend solely on the composition of the alloy. Then the gasket face will either need to be machined (surface mill) or lapped manually.
And it might all come to zero if the alloy does not take the weld. Replacement head is the only reliable option. Products like "JB Weld" cannot be "squished" into the crack, because there is no void for them to fill. The fracture has not left vacant space - any product pushed into the area between the two pieces will only ever result in the broken piece sitting proud.
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Cheers, Anthony |
#7
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Quote:
My guess it will be cheaper and less problems in the long run if just get that used head now. Might be worthwhile to get an opinion from well recommended independent shop that specializes in BMWs. My guess is they have had experience with something like your issue.
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X5 4.6 2002 Black Sap, Black interior. 2013 X5M Melbourne Red, Bamboo interior Dallas |
#8
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Ouch, sorry to hear. It can be welded... but you are going to have to pull it off. The machine shop I use here has welded heads for me before with good results. Even bolt mounting eyes/tabs/ears.
It would be an excuse to have your valve guides and seals done at the same time by the machinist. When you put it back together it will run like new. Would cost ~$400 +parts here though... so it's not a cheap set of jobs.
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2005 X5 4.4i Build 04/05 Maintenance/Build Log Nav, Pano, Sport (Purchased 06/14 w/ 109,000 miles) (Sold 8/15 w/121,000 miles) 2006 X5 4.8is Build 11/05 Maintenance/Build Log Nav, DSP, Pano, Running Boards, OEM Tow Hitch, Cold Weather Pckg (Purchased 08/15 w/ 90,500 miles) 2010 X5 35d Build 02/10 Nav, HiFi, 6 DVD, Sports Pckg, Cold Weather Pckg, HUD, CAS, Running Boards, Leather Dash, PDC, Pano (Purchased 03/17 w/ 136,120 miles) |
#9
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+1 for taking it to your local engine or head rebuilder before throwing down for the used head which even might have problems too. Those guys have usually seen and tried just about everything, so it can't hurt to ask.
I would take them the pictures first, and see if they even want to try it, and then like said above, you'll have a head as good as new.
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Too many to list a vehicle history. Currently: '01 X5 4.4 And others... |
#10
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Thanks everyone for the comments and feedback.
I'm leaning towards removing the head and sending to machine shop, having them repair/weld the crack, resurface the valve guides and do the seals, and machine the head face....basically fixing the crack and reconditioning the rest of the head. I'm planning to use Auto Head Performance. They've worked exclusively on BMW heads for the last 14 years - unless I can find an equalivalent machine shop in the Dayton/Cincinnati area, which could save me about $150-$200 in shipping cost. Has anyone used one they would recommend? I'm working on putting together my list for tools/parts required now. Will start removing the Intake Manifold tonight. If anyone has a link/DIY/Pics that they would be willing to share - please send. |
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