P0300, P0302, P0304, P0306, Engine running rough with little power

[jfoj]

Although it may be a PITA to actually pull a few coils, it would let you know if there is oil or water is the spark plug well. This can cause problems. Did you guys just have some really, really hard rain about a week ago?

I do not know this is your problem, but something to consider??

Xoutpost.com - powered by BMW X-sav Enthusiasts!

If you search around, you will see this can be a problem with the E70 and the 6 cylinder engines.

[Ozer]

Not sure if this will help but try connecting a separate engine to ground cable to bypass the original ground wire (in case its worn down) I had a no start or slow start issue and doing the ground cable fixed it.

[X5Cat]

Originally Posted by Perrier

I have experienced similar codes and after a lot of money spent on replacing possibly failing parts I found the following, and corrected both the misfires on multiple cyl and the Evap error code:

Opened the spark plug cover and found water and oil around the spark plugs. This was due to failure of two gaskets, the valve cover gasket caused oil leak, and the spark plug cover gasket allowed water splashes to get through to the plugs. I replaced the gaskets, cleaned the plugs and connectors. Started the car and it ran smooth and the codes reset themselves.

For the Evap code, I put some silicone spray on the gas tank cap and closed it tightly. Reset the code, and it hasn't come back (approx 5months ago)

Originally Posted by jfoj

Forgot about the problem with the E70 and the plastic cowling in front of the windshield that can allow water to drip on the engine. The 6 cylinder/Diesels seem to have problems where there can be problems with the connectors on the fuel injectors and maybe even the coils/spark plug wells on the rear half of the engine. If you search here a bit I think you will find info on this.

Thanks, guys, this sounds like the sort of really good firsthand experience stuff that may just help me nail down the culprit!

Also, ard, thanks for shedding more light on the adapter stuff for me. No, I don't want to waste a lot of time on it, but I do want to understand the setup.

[X5Cat]

Originally Posted by jfoj

Although it may be a PITA to actually pull a few coils, it would let you know if there is oil or water is the spark plug well. This can cause problems. Did you guys just have some really, really hard rain about a week ago?

We had a couple of inches of rain on Nov. 8 & 9, before she traveled on the 12th. Less than 0.1" in Baton Rouge when she arrived there on the 12th. For the year, though, we've had over 70", which is high even for Mobile. Maybe there is an accumulation of seepage. The car is normally garage sheltered, but she takes it for washes now & then, although not for several days before the problems started.

I plan to dive into it tonight and access the plugs, maybe see signs of water or oil where they shouldn't be. Good chance to look for problem and install the new plugs all at once. Would have done it this past weekend but having to work on a house I'm trying to sell (recently moved & changed jobs -- have a big juggling act on my hands).

[X5Cat]

Hey, anyone have the specified plug gap for the '09 3.0? I like to check the new plugs before I install, even if they are supposed to be pre-gapped.

[X5Cat]

Oh, and torque/tightening instructions for the plugs as well, as long as I am begging.

[X5Cat]

Well, I went ahead and used finger tight plus 1/2 turn since these are gasket seat spark plugs. As far as the gap, I found 0.044 on the NGK site. The existing plugs I measured to be about 0.055. The new ones were supposed to be pre-gapped but they all measured about 0.040 by my gauge. I installed them as they were, without re-gapping. Cranked it up when I finished and the car still runs about the same. I didn't read the codes again but I imagine they are about the same, too. Can't say that I'm really surprised.

Wasn't able to see much concerning a possible gasket vacuum leak. All plug wells were clean & dry except No. 4, which was sopping with oil, but the oil wasn't high enough to reach the boot of the coil. The coil was clean & dry. No oil on the tip side of the plug (in combustion chamber). I'll post a photo later of the plugs after removal. Nos. 1, 2, 3, & 5 were black, with No. 2 being a little less so than the others. Nos. 4 & 6 were much whiter.

Guess I have to figure out now how to identify a vacuum leak, or just take a chance ripping the valve cover off for exploratory surgery.

[jfoj]

One thing to check/rule out which is pretty easy, check the vehicle charging system. Most of the BMW engines use a Multiple Spark Discharge or multiple trigger of the spark plug for each firing cycle. If the charging system is low, the DME will disable this feature.

Most of the BMW charging systems operate between 13.8-14.2 Volts that I have seen. Unfortunately the stupid E70 does a VERY poor job, if at all, about notifying the driver that there is any sort of charging problem.

You should be able to bring up and display the Voltage in the cluster, but it is also wise to verify the charging Voltage at the battery terminals and the under hood jump start connections.

This explains the Hidden Menu - http://www.scoopz.com/m5board/E60_Hi...structions.pdf

[X5Cat]

Photos of plugs after removal last night. No. 4 also shown as it was removed drenched in oil (but oil not up to coil boot, and oil not inside engine).

[jfoj]

#4 & #6 in general appear to be Lean based on the color, but this is not always 100% given. The others look very carboned up.

The oil in the plug well means you will need to replace the valve cover gasket at some point, but for now you have no more oil in the plug well and as you mentioned it was maybe not quite high enough to cause problems.

Would really like to see Fuel Trim values and you may want to consider a smoke test as well. Have you ordered an OBDII interface?