Removed the X5 for motor work.

[wippe]

Hi All,
I've separated the 2010 E70 from the N62 engine/trans/subframe.

The BMW dealer concluded that my car was not worthy of repair, "may need new engine assembly".
They want to replace my engine with a similar mileage engine. With a short warranty. Maybe they don't have the time to diagnose? Don't want to get dirty? Don't want to tie up a lift? etc, etc.....

I've decided to do the work myself. Whatever that might be.

"Programming of car did not fix rough running- swapped plugs and coils from cylinders 6 and 8 and misfires stayed in 6 and 8 cylinders"

"Also bank 2 exhaust cam faults will not reset- possible out of timing."
0029cc
0029d2
0029d4
002b65 note: i replaced this before dealer.
002ded
002e2b note: I replaced this before dealer.

Before engine removal:
So, I have been chasing multiple misfires.
Replaced plugs, 4 coils, coolant stint, fixed massive oil leak behind alternator, repaired crank case vents, removed and cleaned solenoids.

I have Rheingold on Windows 7, connectivity through OBDII and MOST.
Printed a 5 page report, but don't know how to use any of it fluently.

Now I have the engine assembly out, removed drivers side VC. (I don't see excessive wear)
For the purpose of replacing gaskets. Upper timing gasket as well.
I have read about the intermediate lever failures.
Is there a way to visually determine if they are worn? Eccentric shaft?
Engine had a rattle sound that was not consistent with RPM or throttle position. Maybe if you had a handful of rocks in a shoebox, and shook it once, at decel.
No power at low end WOT. Runs strong above 3500.
No oil leaks
No oil burning from exhaust.

Check engine light.
Flashing engine light.
Car on lift light.

57,000 miles
While engine is out:
4 O2 sensors
4 Vanos solenoids
Idler pulleys
Spark plugs and tubes.
Gaskets
Coils
Injectors
Cam Sensors
Starter


Is this list to aggressive ?
Can I save the valve seals for another (engine removal)day?
Missing anything?

I can't bring myself to torch it yet.

[gregg3gs]

I plan on doing this exact thing.

If possible please post pictures and procedure for what you had to do to get it out.
Thanks.

[wippe]

I'll start with the hydraulic cart/table.
This was the only part of the project I was unsure about, and I had an idea that I would have to modify whatever type of reasonably priced table I could find.
It is from northerntool.com ; 2200 lbs capacity 20x40 surface, extends 39" above floor. $650 with freight(i think).
I fabricated brackets to attach the engine assembly to the cart, using existing bolt holes on the car and C clamps to the table.
Although not as massive as what you might find in a proper BMW shop, it is fully capable of what I needed it to do.

I have no BMW training.
I have about 8 hrs in removing the engine assembly, including fab work for cart.
This is AFTER removing all of the Tupperware and sheet metal pans on bottom.
The only part, so far, that I would have liked another set of hands would have been with the exhaust. All one piece.

All electrical connections are under the pass side plastics.

Fuel line.

Oil lines to oil cooler.

Radiator hoses. Need to drain.

Heater core hoses.

A/C.

Driveshaft and ele connector.

Steering universal joint.

Power steering hoses. Need to drain.

Vacuum line that runs to the rear of vehicle. Vacuum line to brake booster.

6 bolts securing front sub-frame. 6 bolts securing trans cross member.

Consider this a rough draft.
These photos didn't work out like I thought they would.
I'll work on it when more time permits.

The orange ratchet straps provide strain relief for the CV joints/axels.

[gregg3gs]

No worries.
This gives me a good idea of the undertaking.

Do you thins dropping the engine onto pallets would work?
(I thought of getting about five pallets and stacking them on top of each other)

Post more pics in time as you like, certainly appreciate your work.

[wippe]

Pallets could work. Certainly not ideal, but if you had some in perfect condition as to minimize wobble or listing, go for it.
Keeping the car subframe and pallets parallel is important.

Jack stands would allow better access to the subframe bolts, but would prevent you from using a pallet jack to roll the assembly out.

[SeanC]

Originally Posted by gregg3gs

I plan on doing this exact thing.

If possible please post pictures and procedure for what you had to do to get it out.
Thanks.

Are your symptoms similar? What's your current mileage?

This scares me. What could possibly go wrong in an N62 at 57k miles that would require a complete removal of the motor?

[the_ulf]

Originally Posted by SeanC

What could possibly go wrong in an N62?

...where do i begin?
be prepared for anything

[gregg3gs]

Originally Posted by SeanC

Are your symptoms similar? What's your current mileage?

This scares me. What could possibly go wrong in an N62 at 57k miles that would require a complete removal of the motor?

Hahaha, as above... everything.

Let me start off with this:
I am at 170K miles
- car smokes after 3 minutes of idling (bad valve seals)
- poor quality gasket design... every gasket in the engine (gasket hardens and leaks by 100K)
- alternator fails by 125K
- ac compressor fails by 160K
- valley gasket fails by 100K
- oil pressure sensor fails by 100K
- oil pump gasket fails before 100K

... this is just in the engine bay

Let's walk around the car (in my case):
- airbags fail three times by 170K
- rear dif broke by 120K
- transfer case broke by 160K
- transmission leaks internally (I got this fixed before it destroyed the computer) at 120K
- I think I am loosing one of the cats now
- dip mirror was gone since I got the car at 65K
- inside ac blower fan failed by 150K
- dual climate mixing valve by 160K


That is it for now...

[SeanC]

Originally Posted by the_ulf

...where do i begin?

be prepared for anything

I hear ya, but I want to believe that OP's is a special case since he's only at 57k. I've had my own share of problems, but engine always stayed in its place.

[SeanC]

Originally Posted by gregg3gs

Hahaha, as above... everything.

Let me start off with this:
I am at 170K miles
- car smokes after 3 minutes of idling (bad valve seals)
- poor quality gasket design... every gasket in the engine (gasket hardens and leaks by 100K)
- alternator fails by 125K
- ac compressor fails by 160K
- valley gasket fails by 100K
- oil pressure sensor fails by 100K
- oil pump gasket fails before 100K

... this is just in the engine bay

Let's walk around the car (in my case):
- airbags fail three times by 170K
- rear dif broke by 120K
- transfer case broke by 160K
- transmission leaks internally (I got this fixed before it destroyed the computer) at 120K
- I think I am loosing one of the cats now
- dip mirror was gone since I got the car at 65K
- inside ac blower fan failed by 150K
- dual climate mixing valve by 160K


That is it for now...

Makes me want to list my problems so far at 84k. I keep an excel worksheet so maybe I'll post that instead.