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  #121  
Old 02-18-2019, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyro235 View Post
You towed an enclosed Vnose that weighed 9k lbs? What kind of tongue weight were you pulling with? Do you have the air suspension in the rear, and what hitch setup do you use? That's way overweight for the ratings, but how'd it do?
Long story. A friend sells me his decked out race car trailer. Claims it weight 3000lbs (per the mfg website). I didn't have a tongue scale yet, so I just guessed at it when I put a 3100lb car into it for a trip. A month later I was coming back from delivering a car for a friend and I stopped by a CAT scale. That's when I found out the trailer was about 5400lbs empty. I figure with all my gear and the car it was 9000lbs. Turns out all the cabinetry, the 5kw generator, the extra lights, winch, extra height interior, fridge, work table with a big arse vise, AC outlets, jack, Nitrogen bottle, monster fold out ramp extension, walk on roof with removable railing, carpeted walls, e-track everywhere, yada yada, added 2500lbs to the base trailer. I estimate my tongue weight was around 1000lbs. Yes, my car as air suspension in the back, so there was no way to tell I was over by the ride height. I did have a WD hitch on it, and when I was at the CAT scales, it showed the WD was transfering about 325lbs from the rear to the front.

It actually towed just fine, but note that I'm a pretty conservative when I'm towing. I never go over 80mph and do my best to maintain momentum rather than mash the gas and brake. I had no problems zipping up some decent hills (I-84 through CT) and braking was what I expected with a big trailer (4wheel electric brakes). Had I not gone to the CAT scale, I might not have ever known the rig was so heavy.

FWIW, I got better mileage with that monster trailer (+2mpg) than I do now with my new bare-bones trailer (which really does weigh 3000lbs before loading the car). The new trailer is the same model from the same company (ATC, Quest) but is 6" shorter (eg standard interior height) and a flat front whereas the heavy one was a really deep V-nose. Next trailer I get will be an ATC (wonderful quality) but with a V-nose again.

FWIW, my hitch wasn't damaged in anyway but towing that monster for a summer. My bumper cutout for my hitch has about 1/4" clearance and that spacing didn't change at all. I did go back and check the hitch mount nuts and they were all still tight.
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  #122  
Old 03-30-2019, 09:38 PM
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2012 50i - towed about 1300 miles from Tx to Az-boat and trailer weigh 5120. Averaged 10.5 mpg but wife was actually towing it and would slowly speed up to 80mph range until she was outrunning me in F350 DRW/42 ft 5th wheel and call her to SLOW DOWN. Iíve towed it another 500 miles and it tows great with the only complaint being the narrow FOV mirrors. Of course it gets bumped around more by winds/bad roads than the truck. GOODYEAR Endurance tires are great and speed rated at 87mph for the wifeís heavy foot or passing lines of semiís on 2 laners.
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  #123  
Old 03-31-2019, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by mx21 View Post

the only complaint being the narrow FOV mirrors.

Get some European style panoramic mirrors. Absolutely amazing.
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  #124  
Old 03-31-2019, 12:59 AM
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ďnarrow FOV mirrors.Ē
Stock mirrors useless with my race trailer.

Best mirrors are the OEM trailer mirrors (google EMUK BMW E70).
These are just barely enough for an 8.5í wide toy hauler. Set these to show where the trailer wheels are (covers the sides of the trailer but only about 15-18ft worth of trailer. I still need a wide angle at the back of the trailer to have full coverage.
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  #125  
Old 03-31-2019, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by mx21 View Post
2012 50i - towed about 1300 miles from Tx to Az-boat and trailer weigh 5120. Averaged 10.5 mpg but wife was actually towing it and would slowly speed up to 80mph range until she was outrunning me in F350 DRW/42 ft 5th wheel and call her to SLOW DOWN. Iíve towed it another 500 miles and it tows great with the only complaint being the narrow FOV mirrors. Of course it gets bumped around more by winds/bad roads than the truck. GOODYEAR Endurance tires are great and speed rated at 87mph for the wifeís heavy foot or passing lines of semiís on 2 laners.

I too drive my X5 while towing a 22ft travel trailer at 80mph (sometimes more) while towing. Most of the time I'm at 70-75mph and I've switched to hartland tires on my TT which are speed rated at 87mph as well.

I agree the mirrors are not ideal and could use an upgrade. I find myself leaning to see around the sides of the trailer.

I'll say that with an anti-sway hitch on my X5 its pretty darn stable. In fact one time my X5's alternator died, and we had to have my father in law tow our TT home from Austin to Houston. He towed without the anti-sway hitch with his 2017 2500HD duramax, and it definitely was tossed around a lot more than the X5 (we were all surprised), so in this case the hitch design makes a big difference.

So much of it is in the details of the setup, trailer loading, trailer center of gravity, tires on TT, suspension (a lot of trailers have very primitive suspension), aerodynamics, etc.


Now I know that trucks as tow vehicles can be a very emotional point, and I'm not trying to hit that, just sharing my experience.

Not a direct comparison, but I have a 2000 DRW F-450, and I don't like going above 70mph because of how much vagueness is in the steering and the fight it is to keep it in its lane from cross winds. I recently had all the ball joints replaced, steering box and alignment done, and well, it still has the capability to be steered down the road, but precision is not great (or a feature), I think the steering has ~1/4" of play that does nothing (better than the 1/4-1/2 turn before). It reminds me of driving an old u-haul box truck. its not a confidence inspiring vehicle to drive fast (nor does it want to go fast).

Last edited by Thecastle; 03-31-2019 at 10:04 AM.
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  #126  
Old 03-31-2019, 12:34 PM
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I recommend buying a $125 Sherline trailer tongue weight scale to setup your trailer for proper towing. Itís a cheap way to make sure you have a safe setup. I keep mine in the trailer in case I need to setup a new payload.
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  #127  
Old 03-31-2019, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by bfeng View Post
I recommend buying a $125 Sherline trailer tongue weight scale to setup your trailer for proper towing. Itís a cheap way to make sure you have a safe setup. I keep mine in the trailer in case I need to setup a new payload.
Agreed, I have one! There is no way to visually tell you have overloaded your trailer or tow vehicle. I suspect this is a major cause of blow outs and bad handling.

the cat scale is how I discovered I was way, way, over my tongue weight maximum, that and a trip to the cat scales. Probably at about 860lbs. 1st warning was at the cat scales where I measured I was exceeding the rear axle max weight at about 3800lbs. (3500lbs is the max weight rating, and the tires are good for about 4000lbs).
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  #128  
Old 03-31-2019, 10:49 PM
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For $135 you can cat scale about a dozen times and get full weight and tongue/trailer etc. You have to spend the extra $2 for a re-weigh and do a little math. If you have a friendly clerk they will let you decouple on the scale
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  #129  
Old 04-01-2019, 01:12 AM
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ď scales are cheap,Ē

Sure, I usually only haul 3 different cars so my floors marked out for two accessory loads (w & w/o full race gear). But sometimes I help friends out (shows and races), so I donít always have a chance to load up and then adjust at a CAT scale later. If I had an F250 dually with 2000lbs tongue weight capacity and 6000lbs of towing headroom, Iíd be fine going to the scales every now and then. But with our little Xís trailering a full size sports car in a toy hauler can put you near the limit. Iíd rather have the flexibility of checking my loading when and where ever rather than having to drive 14 miles to our nearest CAT scale everytime I was unsure. And hey, $125 is cheap and convenient insurance, right?
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  #130  
Old 04-01-2019, 01:16 AM
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But yes I have done CAT before to figure how how tongue weight is getting distributed to the two axles and yes of course they will let you decouple so you can check F/R/T weights (for under $20). Iím not saying the scales donít serve an important purpose. Iím just saying $125 to have a T-weight scale in the trailer is cheap, smart, and safer. Than guessing. For those of you who use traditional WD, you can approximate tongue weight from how much you have to crank up on the arms as the arms are rated at lbs per inch of defection and you remember HS geometry, right?
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