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#131
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#132
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Overall, super satisfied. I'm using a prodigy RF brake controller which was having some pulsing issues that were really annoying, and I believe it stems from the small amount of up-down slack in my channel mounted adjustable tongue on my trailer. I'm going to look into having it welded solid, as I don't need to adjust it. the play messes with the accelerometers that are sensing the tiniest change in orientation, and telling the trailer that I let up on the brakes when I haven't, making them pulse like slow anti-locks.
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'10 X5 35d- 279k mi, deleted and DUDMD stage 2, daily and tow vehicle '01 330i- Drift car: SLR Super angle, BC coils- keep it simple '07 335i 6mt - Sold @ 171k miles- stage 2 daily commuter for 2 years |
#133
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X5 towing experience and fuel economy
I can't tolerate the motion of the typical trailer ball. Especially when I have the back rack in the receiver.
I drilled a hole out the side and threaded for a 1/2-13 bolt and put a bolt in to remove all motion on my trailer ball. Highly recommended. That same idea would work for your tongue, faster and easier than welding and reversible just in case.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) Last edited by andrewwynn; 04-01-2019 at 11:59 AM. |
#134
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That's a pretty good idea, I'll have to look at the actual channel attachment's spacing and see if that kind of idea would be possible.
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'10 X5 35d- 279k mi, deleted and DUDMD stage 2, daily and tow vehicle '01 330i- Drift car: SLR Super angle, BC coils- keep it simple '07 335i 6mt - Sold @ 171k miles- stage 2 daily commuter for 2 years |
#135
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If the holes are standard of hitch pin they make hitch pins that bind to prevent rattle could also work.
The trick is you need to bind the two sleeved parts, a through bolt doesn't work. Drill a couple 3/8" holes a couple feet apart from the top if the tongue is a pair of sliding box channel. Drill and tap the second layer of the inner box and install a couple 3/8 grade 8 bolts. I would use 3/8 to get more threads into the metal. 3/8" bolt torqued to 45 ft·lb is about 7000# clamping force. 1/2" at 90 ft·lb is about 14400 # clamping force. Another method is to drill all the way through both boxes, then drill a 1/2" hole through the bottom of the bottom box and use a sleeve around the bolt at the bottom to put the clamp force on the bottom of the inner box.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#136
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I have a couple ball holders and they all rattled a bit in the OE hitch. I wrapped the front and rear with one layer of 1” wide friction tape (a bit like racers tsps). The fit is just tight enough that I have to push and wiggle a little to get the holder into the receiver. No more rattling and creaking. The 1-layer lasts for 3-4 trips and then starts to get loose. I just perk it off and put a new piece on tape one and all’s well. Removing the bell mount takes a bit of jiggling and tugging. If the OE receiver had allowed use of one of those $15 U-bolt thingies, that would’ve been better.
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#137
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X5 towing experience and fuel economy
Softride Quiet Ride Locking Tightening Hitch Pin; Anti-Rattle for Receiver Hitches, Bike Racks, or Boat Trailers; Silence the "clanking" noise that occurs while towing (25219) http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000T5BI8Y
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) Last edited by andrewwynn; 04-01-2019 at 09:06 PM. |
#138
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Does that thing work? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Black on cream 04 4.8iS Black on black 330i ZHP auto Imola on black 01 M3 |
#139
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Just wait till that rusts shut it you lose your key.
I don’t use a $250 ball carrier (weighsafe, etc), so I don’t need a lock. a bit of friction tape wrapped around the 2” ball carrier tube works fine for me. It is enough to stop all creaking and rattling and I always have racer tape in the trailer. |
#140
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the bolt looks great for security. I’d prefer it over that fancy no rattle pin.
Last edited by bfeng; 04-14-2019 at 04:52 PM. |
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