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#1
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Pulley Squeaking when Turning On the A/C
I own a 2010 E70 X5 4.8i. Last couple of weeks i have been getting a loud squeaking noise coming from the pulley/belts area every time i turn on the A/C when i turn on the car. The squeaking appears to stop once i turn off the A/C or after about 10 minutes of driving. Anyone have any idea what it could be? I tried using held conditioner but it didn't seem to do anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
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#2
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It might be the bearing! Keep in mind, it's 7 years old even though it wouldn't seem old to us.
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DIY_Nation_TH https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-u...O40J6wl1hzOVdw 2012 BMW X5M E70 4.4TT |
#3
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I'm having the exact same issue right now. I know what caused mine though... I took the X muddin' a short while ago and got EVERYTHING in the engine bay covered in mud
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2007 E70 X5 4.8i Sport Package 8x,xxx Miles "My Precious" (Smeagol voice) ![]() |
#4
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On the 35d, the harmonic balancer starts to get sloppy with age and cause belt squealing, and even failure.
They changed the ac belt size to a bit smaller one also on 35d to prevent squeal. If the 4.8 has an ac stretch belt too, it might be worth replacing it, if it feels loose or looks worn. |
#5
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Quote:
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#6
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N62 doesn't use stretch belts and the AC belt tensioner is a bastard to release
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discs 'n drums 'n body roll |
#7
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Edit:
The compressor. Since i can immediately stop the horrific screeching by turning off the AC. It leads me to believe that the origin of the noise is the compressor itself.
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2007 E70 X5 4.8i Sport Package 8x,xxx Miles "My Precious" (Smeagol voice) ![]() Last edited by BustedKnuckles; 07-07-2017 at 08:12 PM. |
#8
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Some of the guys on another forum suggested replacing the belt, Tension Pulley and Idler Pulley. Could this be the culprit?
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#9
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Might as well drop this here.....
2012 diesel 165k miles. Came back from a trip, unloaded. 45 minutes later wife jumps in to drive down to the barn and comes inside to report: "Heavy steering, red 'charge' light on dash, and it smells funny" "oh, lost the serpentine belt"...so I walk out. Start it. Yes, all those things happen- pop the hood. Belt is in place, but is not moving- engine is running. "oh. must be broken, just laying there not moving" Trun in off, check belt. Belt is good to go, nice and tight. Hmm. Fire it up, turn OFF the AC. Belt is now turning. Turn on the AC, belt stops. Double hmmm. Ahh. Harmonic balancer sheared off, enough resistance to spin under slight load, but AC is too much and it stops the belt. Sourced a local pully for $640. Stretch bolts. Found a Lisle tool. Purchased two new belts.... (that AC belt was dealer only, here in northern CA. Nobody had it!) Had at it The guys at tunemyeuro have a good YT on doing the job.... as with all these jobs, do it once and you are 3 times faster. 1. Finding the hole to lock the flywheel is a PITA. Once you know it, you can do it blind. A fiberoptic camera on an ipad did the trick. I used a heavy allen wrench, like 3/8" or 7/16"?? Nice fit, not cray snug. They make a proper tool for this, just a pin that is sized to the hold...12mm I bet? 2. Popping off all the electrical clips is the usual sweaty affair. Push? Squeeze" Pull then squeeze? Did it click yet? now? more? is it actually broken?! The big connector for the fan motor for example. 3. The clips that hold the fan in place are simple, effectove and easy. ONCE YOUVE SEEN THEM. Study them. Also, on the left (US driver) side, this mounting tab on the fan is actually on a 'folding' tab. Once you release it, fold it towards the center of the car, then flat- it lets you get the whole thing out. 4. I did not remove the intake hose from the intercooler- just pushed it to the side and forward. 5. The Lisle tool works, but I think you turn the motor backwards a bit. I did NOT have that sweet little 'crankshaft tool'. $40 to 80. It has 4 holes that sit 'over' the 4 torx bolts, with a single 1/2" drive.... I made two tools since I didnt want to wait a week. Neither worked. Finally I took TWO e12 sockets and attached TWO ratchets at the same time- this way the torque I needed to apply to turn the motor was UNDER the yield torque of either of the two bolts. Yeah, it felts sketch, but I'll be damned, it worked find. I had one rigid handle and one flex head, and THAT was a total PITA. Flopping around.... (I was contemplating getting two more E12s and welding them all up into a quad-head franken thing, with a half a stubby 1/2" extension and the E12s around this.. welding chromed stuff isnt fun, but it was on the list. ![]() Oh. DO take the flywheel lock pin out before trying to turn the motor. Just an FYI, not saying I did that. There is a really fancy belt tool thats 100-140. That was also a week out. Kommen makes one. Funny, I discovered I have a recall on the belt tensioner bolt. So they are gonna do it over this coming week. I mean I almost think I should not bother- its done 165k in 10 years, Im guessing I have one of the good ones! ![]() |
#10
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You should be able to locate the source of the noise with an auto stethoscope. Just touch it on the the compressor and near the idler pulley, around the front of the engine. Closer you get the louder it will be.
If you doh't have a stethoscope a long extension will work, however, stethoscopes are inexpensive and widely available.
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![]() Dallas |
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