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  #51  
Old 04-12-2018, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by byM5 View Post
I'll probably do oil seals, coolant pipe, oil transfer gasket, valve covers, rms, and rear coolant cover because it's out of car.
Secondary air system cleaning would also be much easier to perform with the engine out. BTW, impressive persistence - good on you. Keep us in the loop with your progress!
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  #52  
Old 04-12-2018, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by LightlyToasted View Post
Secondary air system cleaning would also be much easier to perform with the engine out. BTW, impressive persistence - good on you. Keep us in the loop with your progress!
Thank you for the suggestion. I will do that one too. Although I'm not sure these cars have it. I was looking for it with my heads off and couldn't find it.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks everyone for the positive comments and suggestions!!!
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  #53  
Old 04-12-2018, 09:48 AM
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Remember when I was trying to turn over the car during this job and ran into a very firm obstruction to TDC? That is #1 TDC

Do you guys think that a coolant filled chamber forced to torn with a breaker bar slowly would have caused this crack?

If the bottom end doesn't ususally have problems (and I'm sure plenty of people overheated and statistically there have been few bottom end problems),
What are the chances this is self induced punishment??
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  #54  
Old 04-12-2018, 10:06 AM
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You had plugs out, right, which would allow any fluid some form of venting? I can't image hand cranking causing a crack on a cool (not operating temp or below freezing) engine.

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  #55  
Old 04-12-2018, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by byM5 View Post
I'll probably do oil seals, coolant pipe, oil transfer gasket, valve covers, rms, and rear coolant cover because it's out of car.

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I'd take a good look at the motor mounts while the engine is out as well.
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  #56  
Old 04-12-2018, 11:20 AM
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Would you guys reuse the new valve seals?

I'm leaning toward just spending the $50 and putting in new.
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  #57  
Old 04-12-2018, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Toothbrush View Post
You had plugs out, right, which would allow any fluid some form of venting? I can't image hand cranking causing a crack on a cool (not operating temp or below freezing) engine.

I like your toothbrush!!!

I used quite a few of them while decarbonizing and degasketing.

When I was done with 1 and 2 I replaced spark plugs. When I ran into the hard stop, I removed them and the engine still had some resistance. It wasn't until I pulled bank 2 plugs that it moved freely again. Currently bank 2 head is untouched except valve seals.

I think someone is going to say there is another crack in bank 2.
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  #58  
Old 04-12-2018, 12:10 PM
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I know hindsight is always 20-20, and I post this only to show others who may not be aware of this technique, but I thought I would post a link to the one tool that could have saved a massive amount of effort:

https://store.snapon.com/Leak-Tester...k-P642924.aspx

When you have either a cracked block, head, or a sometimes a bad head gasket, what happens is that combustion gasses get into the coolant. This can be detected with this simple device. Then you know for sure it's time to pull the head(s).
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  #59  
Old 04-12-2018, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Skyline View Post
Also, most junkyards offer some sort of limited guarantee on their engines. You can certainly do a leakdown test before installing the motor once you have it. You could possibly do a compression test if you could rig the starter. If the junkyard still has it in a car, all the better; you can hear it run. I doubt most yards would let you do any tests on the motor, but you could ask. If I had access to an engine in a car, I'd be happy with a good compression test, and one of those coolant tests that can determine if combustion gasses are in the coolant.

I wouldn't swap heads if you get a motor with 60k miles. You could drive it for several years before having to do the valve seals, and you may have parted ways with the car before that point.

I was suggesting swapping heads as from what I understand he just had a valve job and decarbonizing done on his heads.

All junkyards warranty the engine as replacement only and for a short period of time. Not selling you a bad engine is part reputation, and part the reality that there's a lot of labor involved for them to remove an engine. There is no shortage of X5's in junkyards so they will sell you one from a car that came in totalled in a wreck where it's fair to assume it was running, the mileage is known, and had passed smog at most 2 years ago. Cars that are sold to them with expired registration or from the impound lot they just assume something is wrong with the engine and might pull the heads off to sell but with engines as popular as ours most likely straight to the crusher.
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  #60  
Old 04-13-2018, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by byM5 View Post
Would you guys reuse the new valve seals?

I'm leaning toward just spending the $50 and putting in new.
IMO, having read through the thread, I would reuse the whole head you've worked on. But if not, then I'd reuse the valve stem seals. If you installed them carefully and with assembly grease, they're probably just fine. Check for nicks, but they should be usable.
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