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#1
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I bought new Lemforder arms and had them drop shipped to him, he then presses in the new monoballs and forwards the complete arms to you. I recommend his service. |
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#2
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And looking forward to see how your diesel wagon project comes out.
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#3
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Things are looking up for the X5. With a winter trip on the horizon it's finally time to install the 3.15 differential, to match my rear and complete the 3.64 to 3.15 conversion. I have been running the rear 3.15 for about 9 months in RWD mode and it's great, now time to finalize and flash back to AWD. There are some other parts which will be installed in addition:
- Upgraded Level 10/Sutphin Tuning Torque Converter - 3.15 front diff (to match rear 3.15 and reactivate 4WD) - Brake pads - All new suspension F/R to compliment the just-installed monoball thrust arms. - Mayle HD wishbones w/ adjustable camber - Replacement AC belt - Replacement pano roof surround - Diesel Extreme injector cleaner - Oil change Items not pictured: - Replacement exterior driver door handle - Repair pano roof partitions - Repair Vacuum pump seal (still leaking) I am excited to observe the difference going from RWD with the sloppy and bullied stock torque converter back to AWD with the upgraded converter. My Dragy data shows about .5g during a launch with my current setup and that is with the tires hooking up well, not absolute grip but not bad all things considered. The Dragy data from another tuned diesel X5 with similar mods shows 1.1g from a dig which is awesome. With my 3.15 gearing and larger tires I am assuming my performance won't be as ferocious but it will still be a hoot. Response/driveability around town should also be much more pleasant. Finally put the ZL1/Hankook combo on a scale. The tall tires have a very obvious weight penalty and offset the light ~27lb 20x11 ZL1 wheels. Hike in the rain with the doggos. |
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#4
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Before my winter road trip I was able to get some maintenance items addressed but not all. Torque converter and suspension still on to do list. Here is what has been accomplished.
- Front 3.15 installed, 4WD flashed - Leaking vacuum pump cover resolved, hopefully for good this time - Leaking coolant line deleted - New brake pads - Oil change - 2020 iDrive maps update - Driver door handle replaced "Wrench Mode" 3.15 front diff serviced with fresh fluid, axle seal, and o-ring The front diff swap was fairly straight forward, however some bonehead wrenching added a lot of unnecessary frustration. When lowering the subframe I assume my mistake was not dropping it little by little evenly which made the the subframe get hung up on the locating pins on the frame and it wouldn't hang freely. It took me WAY TOO LONG to figure this out but once I did a gentle tap on the subframe from a sledge hammer and iron rod from above freed up the subframe. By this point I had already removed the driver engine mount and mount bracket which was easy enough BUT getting the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the engine block turned out to be a blind, awkward, and frustrating endeavor. patience and presistence prevailed but hours or time were lost. Live and learn .....or make mistakes, forget, and repeat. lol The front diff does NOT come out this way ...it comes out this way Driveway divas My multi-use BMW special tool, great for propping up the passenger side front axle during front diff removal and great for supporting the subframe. While under the vehicle I noticed some dried coolant on the top of the engine splash panel. Turns out it was caused by my own carelessness when deleting my EGR cooler and looping my coolant system, tension pushed the hose up towards the belt which was able to rub (I assume under high engine load), it looks like I caught it just in time since this could ruin a road trip very quickly. The damaged coolant line is one that Ts into another coolant pipe between the radiator and the engine and then runs down and up behind the low pressure turbo and goes into the engine block. Doing further research it looks like the 335D doesn't have this coolant line at all, the engine block may not even have the cooling port. Instead of replacing the damaged coolant line I deleted it all together by buying a coolant blind plug for the front connection and a Vibrant reinforced coolant cap for the rear connection. If/when I remove the low pressure turbo at that time I will remove the engine block coolant connection and convert it to a plug by welding it shut. Front connection BEFORE Front connection AFTER w/ blind plug Coolant line out HPS caps Rear connection BEFORE Rear connection AFTER My ATM ASV elbow had a fine oil residue on it. It was a bit odd since the silicone was covered in it but there was no obvious leak points at connections. I removed, cleaned, and inspected the elbow and found this on the on the underside where the silicone bends. I haven't noticed any drop in boost or weird boost-leak noises (but I haven't data logged) but I assume there is a tiny hole allowing the oil vapor to escape. I haven't had the best luck with the ATM charge pipe connections so this is more motivation to build a custom charge pipe setup. Vacuum pump cap was continuing to leak after a new set of o-rings so I cleaned everything and applied thin layer of silicone for added security. Driver door handle had an annoying paint chip ever since we got the vehicle and I finally found a comfort access door handle in PGM for a reasonable price on eBay. It's not flawless but it's in much better condition than the old handle. Clearance between ASV elbow and radiator shroud was too close for comfort so clearanced it a bit BEFORE AFTER With the front diff installed I flashed back to 4WD While updating the maps it was a 1+ hour upload so I hooked up the beast, this things can hold a perfect 14.3v for a full vehicle (all modules) overnight flash so it's not breaking a sweat here My Hawk ceramic pads were squealing like mofos and the after hearing my complains the company sent me a set of 5.0 pads to try out. Their rep recommended I bed them aggressively and get them hot enough to smell. No problem, after a good thrashing they were smoking and I used an infrared thermometer to check rotor temps (400f) Potato pic If these 5.0 pads don't work well (and don't squeal) then I have some EBC reds to try. Cleaned and fitted with the cargo box and bike rack! The cargo box is a life saver. It fit 2 snowboards, boots, bindings, snow gear, snow shoes, hiking shoes. MTB gear, helmets, bike rack, misc clothing, bike tools, misc tools, and more. |
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#5
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The X5 was put to work in the month of December; road tripping through California, driving up (and down) to Tahoe in snow, many mountain biking trips and lot's of aggressive driving on tight mountain roads!
![]() After the trip the X5 received various upgrades with the focus being on the interior. Here are some pics from the winter trip.... Dawn patrol in Napa Valley Aggressive mountain driving was aggressive. This was from driving the Oakvilla Grade which connects Napa Valley to Santa Rosa. A rough and tight road. Had to dial it back a bit. Not the best pic but my first roller in the X5! Visiting my good friend up in Truckee. He hates that I call the X5 a "truck" since he owns a Duramax buuuut I tell him, "it's got a tailgate, it's a truck!" lol Always fun to see the people who have no idea what they are doing and try to navigate snow in FWD economy cars on crap tires. Bikes and Beer in Berkeley Fun fact about the 1Up bike rack is it has 3 positions: down to carry bikes, up for storage, and a 45 degree option which allows just enough clearance for the tailgate to come down. Nice More dawn patrol Onto the upgrades! My X5 came with heated wheel but I ditched the feature since I found a nice deal on a Napa M sport wheel with paddles. I finally came across a deal on a heated X5M wheel in nice condition. The X5M uses the same paddles as the E9X M3 so there are more aftermarket options for paddles and I went with a generic set of aluminum paddles. The look is a bit aggressive but I wanted a longer paddle and these are aesthetically more pleasing than some of the other options. Annoyingly the OEM paddles were not communicating through the steering wheel controls so they needed to be spliced into the wiring up stream. I pulled some OEM connectors from the junkyard so the paddles are PNP. Before/After Installing P3 vent gauge which has a bunch of useful metrics The access panel on the side of the dash is a great place to tuck the controller. I FINALLY got around to upgrading the interior lights to LED. As most of you E70 owners are aware, the console trim wears poorly and I couldn't justify the $120 price for a new OEM piece and stumbled upon this cover on Amazon. Fit/finish looked good and for $23 it was worth testing out. Time to update the Nav screen and interior trim. Screen is a WAKAA and I sourced some OEM Shadow Brushed Aluminum trim from Latvia. Little hack when working on the back of the door panels: do this! End result. I love it. Next and maybe the last big interior mod will be Merino leather dash doors and hopefully I can find a pair of Merino comfort seats. I have the massaging/cooled seats and the leather sucks (so does the cooling). |
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#6
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Killer content as always! How is that Wakaa unit working out for you?
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#7
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It works but not as I would hope. Connectivity is a pain as it doesn't auto connect and you manually have to select via BT or 1/2 of that time have to "forget" the BT device and rediscover it and accept 3 prompts on your phone, it's a bit of fumbling every time that shouldn't happen. I also get some random audio cuts. There are some other odd things like buttons controlling the incorrect thing when you are in the BMW interface but those are the main complaints.
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#8
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__________________
2004 BMW M3 Individual 2009 BMW E70 X5 35d 2011 BMW E70 X5 35d - Totaled 2009 BMW M3 E90 - SOLD 2006 E53 X5 4.8iS - SOLD 2002 E46 M3 Convertible - SOLD 2006 E46 M3 ZCP - SOLD 2011 E70 X5 35d - SOLD 2000 E39 ///M5 - SOLD 2003 E53 X5 4.6iS - SOLD 2006 E83 X3 3.0i MSport - SOLD 2000 E46 323Ci - SOLD |
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#9
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Fantastic work! I've been debating both the upgrade screen and that vent gauge ever since I got my X5 in Summer 19 and I think you'll be the reason I pull the trigger. Some of these companies need to start paying you for marketing for them!
Question for you, since I see an Engine support bar: Some of the people in the NABDO groups frown upon using an engine support bar, but I've got deletes planned for this weekend on a lift and will need some way to support the engine with the mount arm out and the subframe dropped. Do you feel that the engine bar adequately supports the engine when you're working? I'll be on a lift without a jack handy, so trying to cover my bases here. Thanks! Edit: Could you please post a picture of where the support bar sits? Last edited by RaleighDiesel; 03-23-2021 at 12:56 PM. Reason: added a question |
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#10
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^I didn't trust an engine support during my ongoing transmission replacement. The plastic fenders as a support scared me. I am using an engine hoist instead but since your going to be on a lift... Won't help you much.
__________________
2005 X5 4.4i Build 04/05 Maintenance/Build Log Nav, Pano, Sport (Purchased 06/14 w/ 109,000 miles) (Sold 8/15 w/121,000 miles) 2006 X5 4.8is Build 11/05 Maintenance/Build Log Nav, DSP, Pano, Running Boards, OEM Tow Hitch, Cold Weather Pckg (Purchased 08/15 w/ 90,500 miles) 2010 X5 35d Build 02/10 Nav, HiFi, 6 DVD, Sports Pckg, Cold Weather Pckg, HUD, CAS, Running Boards, Leather Dash, PDC, Pano (Purchased 03/17 w/ 136,120 miles) |
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