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  #1  
Old 01-23-2020, 10:53 AM
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replaced glow plugs and glow plug controler, now CEL p0670

Ok so replaced all 6 GP as i was having a CEL P0676 for #6 GP, After reading around consensus was to replace all 6 gp as well as GP controller, so i did so. bought bosch glow plugs on ebay as they were cheaper, and a new Beru GSE108 unit from fcp ( should of bought everything from fcp i know).... My old controller was fine never thru a code and was a beru/bmw controller. When i unlock the car and hit the start button i see preheating on the screen... then after i drive shortly after CEL? so not sure what the issue is here . Did i receive a bad controller? If it was a GP issue i would have codes for that correct? debating throwing my old controller on to see what it does, just not looking forward to removing manifold again to test it out while i wait for new unit ...
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Old 01-23-2020, 08:20 PM
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Replaced my GP module (bought OE from dealer) with a couple long socket extensions and magnetic 10 mm socket. The connectors have to be removed before unscrewing the nuts. No need to remove the manifold. A bit fiddly but definitely doable. Check the Youtube video for this.
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Old 10-25-2020, 01:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TriX5 View Post
Replaced my GP module (bought OE from dealer) with a couple long socket extensions and magnetic 10 mm socket. The connectors have to be removed before unscrewing the nuts. No need to remove the manifold. A bit fiddly but definitely doable. Check the Youtube video for this.
I watched the video but still Couldnít do it.

I couldnít remove the bog connector. Try as I might, I could Not squeeze the back side locking tab hard enough to get it to release. I removed the intake (30 min), and was able to them un-nut the module and turn it upside down so the connector was facing up. Then i could reached in there with a double jointed 12Ē long needle nose plier to squeeze the tabs. I heard both sides click and that damn connector finally came off. Maybe Iím a wussy, but without squeezing with the pliers there was no way I could squeeze that connector locking tab hard enough.

If you donít have a magnetic socket, stick a strong magnet to the side of your socket extension. This usually gives you enough mag force so nuts and bolts stick to the socket. This saves time and aggravation removing the lower 7 intake nuts. This can also be done to make a screwdriver magnetic when you need.

BTW, there is a connector at the rear bottom corner of the intake manifold thatís tough to get off. Itís the type where you squeeze both sides to release the locking side levers, problem is one side is inaccessible because itís hard up against a manifold protrusion. There is maybe 1/8Ē of space to get your finger in mail there to squeeze that side of the clip. The only thing that worked for me was a small right angle pick that fit in the clearance. I Pulled on the pick to squeeze the tab and the connect slid off.

Boy what a miserable job. Plus, I found a few of the rubber seals for the intake lower stud holes missing and a few other fasternera that werenít put back over the many years and many many repairs at an indy and dealer (recalls and warranty).
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Old 10-25-2020, 02:01 PM
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Sorry to hear it was harder than expected. Getting to the unit is quite tricky and requires loosening a few things that are in the way. Getting the intake off is not too bad. And yes, some of these connectors are a real bear to remove.

The washers seem to be a regular item lost. Here is the ebay listing. Not sure how critical they are to the mounting of the IM but I like to keep mine complete if I can.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intake-Mani...72.m2749.l2649
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2003 4.4i black ext./black int./black headliner (kid's runabout)

Hmmmm, love those black headliners!

Sold but not forgotten:
2009 E70 35d, black ext./black int./black headliner (sold 2021)
2006 4.8iS Le Mans blue/cream int./black headliner, SOLD in 2012 sadly...

Other hardware:
2015 Cayenne S (wife's new DD and definitely wroooommmmm)
2016 Tundra 1794 edition crew cab, luxo hauler
2005 Tundra crew cab, weekend hauler. Sold after 150k very happy miles.
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Old 10-25-2020, 03:48 PM
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I had severely scraped and bloodied hands from this job. And had to call in the wife with her tiny hands in the end to clip the connector back on. Next time, I will not only remove the IM but also the coolant pipe that blocks access. Just not worth the hassle to save $15 in coolant and an hour of time. YMMV though.
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Old 10-25-2020, 06:49 PM
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Thats how I did mine, removed the IM and the coolant pipe. Man hands.....
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Old 10-25-2020, 08:29 PM
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Yup, I should have removed that coolant pipe. But I’m also glad some of
You are adept enough to get the short cut to work.

Thanks very much for the reference to the intake bolt washers. I couldn’t find this in realoem.com. Now I can get some front he dealer tomorrow and wrap up this job.
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Old 08-25-2021, 10:58 AM
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Remove the intake manifold and coolant pipe (3bolts), then it’s easy. 20 minute job to get it off. Tried the other way but ended up with bruised and bloody hands.

Anybody else have P0670 code after replacing the glow plug module and plugs? Before I replaced it the error was P0675 (glow plug #5).

I probed the module connector plug with a multimeter and it has power, LIN signal, and continuity to the plugs. The dealer said replace the whole engine wiring loom (it has changed from 1 single loom to a different design with separate cables. My car has the older single harness which costs $600 without labor).
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Old 08-27-2021, 04:47 PM
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ok so the saga continues.
Disconnecting the glow plug module produces the P0670 code twice. As well as the expected other codes (loss of signal etc).
Decided to check the wiring harness by finding a wiring diagram from the dealer. They didnt have the pin numbers, but they had wire colors/size, so found the wires connected to the EEC by checking with the continuity meter.
The continuity meter gave normal sound, but on a hunch decided to check resistance. For the 3 main wires (module power, ground, LIN signal):
30ohm, 0.7ohm, 0.7ohm. So bingo.

To be sure I connected the glow plug module directly to the EEC, and the P0670 codes disappeared. (Note 15 other codes appeared but they're just related to the disconnected sensors on that same cable harness)

For anyone else doing it, it's the red with yellow-trace (red and yellow stripe) wire on the EEC plug (3rd connector from the right side I think). And on the glow plug module connector it's pin #5 (5th from left, top row. There's also tiny numbers inside the plug)

Next saga is how to replace this single frickin wire at the back of the engine without paying for a new wire harness.

Anybody else have to do that? Did you just add a byass wire, or did you repair the cable harness by removing?
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Last edited by X535Dpieceofcrap; 08-28-2021 at 08:53 AM.
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Old 08-27-2021, 04:53 PM
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BTW there are several different P0670 fail codes.
Most OBD computers only show 1 code as they dont show the extra digit e.g. P06701

My cheap OBD shows the description though "open circuit".


Here are the basic codes in German
17054 429E P0670 Gluhzeitsteuergerat 1,Gluhstromkreis elektrischer Fehler im Stromkreis
17055 429F P0671 Gluhkerze Zylinder 1-Q10 elektrischer Fehler im Stromkreis
17056 42A0 P0672 Gluhkerze Zylinder 2-Q11 elektrischer Fehler im Stromkreis
17057 42A1 P0673 Gluhkerze Zylinder 3-Q12 elektrischer Fehler im Stromkreis
17058 42A2 P0674 Gluhkerze Zylinder 4-Q13 elektrischer Fehler im Stromkreis
17059 42A3 P0675 Gluhkerze Zylinder 5-Q14 elektrischer Fehler im Stromkreis
17060 42A4 P0676 Gluhkerze Zylinder 6-Q15 elektrischer Fehler im Stromkreis
17061 42A5 P0677 Gluhkerze Zylinder 7-Q16 elektrischer Fehler im Stromkreis
17062 42A6 P0678 Gluhkerze Zylinder 8-Q17 elektrischer Fehler im Stromkreis
17063 42A7 P0679 Gluhkerze Zylinder 9-Q18 elektrischer Fehler im Stromkreis
17064 42A8 P0680 Gluhkerze Zylinder 10-Q19 elektrischer Fehler im Stromkreis
17065 42A9 P0681 Gluhkerze Zylinder 11-Q20 elektrischer Fehler im Stromkreis
17066 42AA P0682 Gluhkerze Zylinder 12-Q21 elektrischer Fehler im Stromkreis
17068 42AC P0684 Gluhzeitsteuergerat 1=>-J179 unplausibles Signal



From a Chevrolet manual I found the full codes (it uses the same/similar glow plug module)

DTC P064C (00): Glow Plug Control Module Performance
DTC P0670 (01): Glow Plug Control Module Control Circuit (Short to Battery)
DTC P0670 (02): Glow Plug Control Module Control Circuit (Short to Ground)
DTC P0670 (04): Glow Plug Control Module Control Circuit (Open Circuit)
DTC P0670 (54): Glow Plug Control Module Control Circuit (Temperature High)
DTC P0671 (02): Glow Plug 1 Control Circuit (Short to Ground)
DTC P0671 (04): Glow Plug 1 Control Circuit (Open Circuit)
DTC P0672 (02): Glow Plug 2 Control Circuit (Short to Ground)
DTC P0672 (04): Glow Plug 2 Control Circuit (Open Circuit)
DTC P0673 (02): Glow Plug 3 Control Circuit (Short to Ground)
DTC P0673 (04): Glow Plug 3 Control Circuit (Open Circuit)
DTC P0674 (02): Glow Plug 4 Control Circuit (Short to Ground)
DTC P0674 (04): Glow Plug 4 Control Circuit (Open Circuit)
DTC P0683 (00): Glow Plug Control Module Communication Circuit
DTC P0683 (3A): Glow Plug Control Module Communication Circuit (Incorrect Component Installed)
DTC P0683 (71): Glow Plug Control Module Communication Circuit (Invalid Serial Data Received)
DTC P161E (00): Glow Plug Positive Voltage Circuit


Full reference here for the meanings of these codes:
Service Manual2007 Captiva Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P064C, P0670, P0671, P0672, P0673, P0674, P0683, P161E


So the glow plug module computer was still working as it was getting power, but the voltage would have been below 8.5V which is the trigger for open circuit.

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