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  #1  
Old 09-18-2020, 07:40 PM
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EGR Codes - Which of Two Valves?

Greetings, all; hoping I can find some help here.



My 2010 X5 35d has been dollaring me to death getting diagnostics done for various things, and I'm really hoping to figure this one out on my own. We've had it for just about exactly 2 years, it's got somewhere around 125,000 miles on it, and only about 20k of those are under my ownership. As long as we've had the vehicle, it's had check engine light on again, off again, pretty much constantly, and also the center display tells me there's an engine malfunction and I'm in reduced power mode about once a week... about 50% of the time it actually does reduce the power and the other 50% it just seems to say it's going to but never does.


As a result of paying for diagnostics (repeatedly) and based on what they told me, I've already replaced the MAF sensor, MAP sensor, throttle body assembly, and EGR Pressure Feedback (DPFE) sensor.

The very first long drive after I replaced all of the above and reset the codes, I was given four new codes (standard cheap ODBII code reader):
P045E Exhaust Gas Recirculation "B" Control Stuck Open
P045F Exhaust Gas Recircuation "B" Control Stuck Closed
P0471 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Range/Performance
P0402 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Excessive Detected

From all those I am willing to assume one of my EGR valves is sticking or not functioning correctly.

The question I'm hoping y'all can answer is this: is it possible, from the codes above, to tell which of the two EGR's needs to be replaced? It has two, a "high pressure" and a "low pressure" and to be quite honest I am not sure which one is which. I know that one of them (which I tend to think of as the "upper" EGR) is between the throttle body and the intake manifold on the driver's side (USA) near the very top of the engine bay, and a second one is located way down low somewhere in the exhaust. But I am confused on whether the one between the TB and the intake is the "high" or the "low" pressure and I have no idea which of the two these codes are likely complaining about.

Second question: are either of these parts that require adaptation or coding to work with the vehicle or can I just plug and play if I replace it/them? I don't think getting the ISTA/P software is an option... I've read threads until I'm cross-eyed about installing it but they all seem to involve using hacked/illicit versions of the software and I just am not ready to get into that yet.


For the cost of another diagnostic at the shop, taking a day off work, and driving 3 hours round trip to do it, I can just about roll the dice and replace both EGR's without knowing which one needs it but if it's possible to tell which one is good and which one is bad from the codes above, or through some diagnostic process I can do without having the official BMW software, I'd sure love to know about it. I don't begrudge the shop their diagnostic; it's not a simple process and they've figured some things out for me that no one else could, but at the same time I am really trying to manage expenses on this thing and anything I can do at home, I need to do so.

I know that eliminating the whole system is a possibility, and I was originally going to go that route (Yes, I know the federal law, etc), but I've been stymied in that direction as well. I did my research and was just about committed to the Rawtek kit and the associate Malone tune that comes with it, but it's come to light that although you can install the tune yourself at home, if you get much of an increase in power output at all then you need to have the transmission software adjusted as well which is not a DIY job from what I understand, and none of the "affiliated" shops even remotely close to where I live will look at it; they're all VW/Audi exclusivists. I may eventually see if they'll do a tune that does not add horsepower and thus doesn't threaten the transmission but just deletes the codes and things associated with the removals, but... this thing's been sitting for a couple months in the yard only taking short trips because I'm nervous going far when it wants to enter engine malfunction reduced power mode all the time, and I just need this thing moving and right now throwing a few hundred at it in EGR's makes more sense than committing to the whole delete expense at this time.

Thanks in advance!


(TLDR: Do the ODBII codes above tell anyone definitively which EGR I need, the high pressure or the low or both, and which one is the one between the throttle body and the intake; high, or low pressure?)
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  #2  
Old 09-18-2020, 07:50 PM
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Answered one of my own questions; stumbled across someone else's post which had a link to "newtis" and figured out that the upper one near the throttle body is the high pressure; the lower one that is more inline with the exhaust is the low pressure. It's always the "last place you look"...



Still leaves one to go; do the ODBII codes indicate which of the two has malfunctioned?
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Old 09-19-2020, 12:12 AM
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There is another valve in the EGR cooler. Check if it moves freely. On a recent major maintenance exercise I found mine was stuck open. Hard to get your hand in but with a bit of effort it should move towards the driver’s side.
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Old 09-19-2020, 12:17 AM
ard ard is offline
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consider looking at the Diesel subforum over on Bimmerfest as well.


Buying a code reader or computer that has BMW specific codes is highly recommended. Especially with diesels that may not be fully 'covered' by a generic 'OBD Compliant' reader.
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Old 09-19-2020, 12:52 AM
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ISTA is pretty easy to install once you have a good download. Bimmergeeks has a good download and I hear protocols is pretty good too. Easy to install. In regards to tuning, you certain can get decent power upgrade. Some 335d folks are running dual cp3 pumps and I hear getting some serious HP and gobs of torque. Sellers suggest dual pumps can get 1000+ HP, although I haven't seen dual pumps on the x5 yet. For transmission tuning, you can certainly DIY and is very easy as well. Look at xhp, you can purchase their tunes, or create your own within certain parameters. There's also DWR, but I personally run Supthins transmission tune and had been great.
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Old 09-19-2020, 12:53 AM
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*protool, not protocol. Autocorrect...
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