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Old 04-26-2021, 11:09 AM
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Throttle body problems on X5 Diesel.

Rewriting this post to better explain my issues. 2011 X5d
Problems: intermittent hesitation then limp mode while driving. Also on the second replacement throttle body. Throttle body wonít close when the vehicle is turned off.
Iíve done the throttle body adaptation reset in the car along with doing a reset through the Carly App. Hasnít worked so far, leads me to think that itís not the throttle body and something else is causing the issue.

Also checked vacuum lines, there good.
Current codes (Carly App)Iím getting: 004BFO Nox Sensor, throttle codes 00483D & 004687

Any ideas are very welcome.

Last edited by cunningham929; 05-03-2021 at 10:59 PM. Reason: Rewrote to ask better questions
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Old 07-21-2021, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cunningham929 View Post
.... throttle codes 00483D & 004687

Any ideas are very welcome.

I'm also experiencing the same issues. It's worse when water is present, however. I'm thinking it might be a frayed wire somewhere that's arcing and becomes worse when water is present. I've also replaced the throttle body and performed the adaptation to no avail. Were you able to figure yours out yet?

As an FYI ... its common for the throttle body's to fill up with oil through the butterfly shaft so I'm going to open mine up tonight to see if it's dry or full of oil.

Last edited by djbmw1; 07-21-2021 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 07-21-2021, 08:22 PM
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E70 35d Diesel Throttle Body Repair

Your throttle body actuator is likely saturated with oil. Scan your car and see if you also have a glow plug/glow plug module issue as well that would also cause excess oil to enter the throttle body and, when you do the repair below to your actuator, be sure to also change your glow plugs and glow plug module.

First,.. remove your throttle body actuator and open up the protective cover. For an original BMW actuator, you will need to lightly hammer/tap a flat head in between the cover and the body and start prying/making room. On an aftermarket cover you can usually use pliers to peel back the corners as it's all thin sheet metal. Be sure to peel back the edges JUST ENOUGH to gain access as you will want to re-bend these once you're done.

Once opened, you'll likely have oil inside. Spend a good amount of time cleaning out ALL oil with carb cleaner, compressed air, paper towels, Qtips, etc.

Next, bring it over to your soldering station and be sure to use a magnifier lens or microscope. I'll let the pictures detail the rest:









I used a single strand of copper from a 10awg wire. You need to have a steady hand and be comfortable with soldering tiny components like this... but it'll get the job done!

PS.. to close it all up I first drilled a TINY hole at the bottom of the cover so that, if any oil gets inside in the future, it should have SOME chance to get out. Yes, this increases my chances of internal corrosion from moisture... but I figure it already has a decent coating of oil on it to prevent that :-)

I then used RTV to re-seal the cover... and bent back all of the edges. Allow to cure and re-install.
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