Cranks but no start

[twarr1]

2007 E70 3.0, cranks but doesn’t start.
History - for the last few months the car would ‘hiccup’ occasionally especially when hot. Then, when cold, < 32F, the engine wouldn’t accelerate after starting for about 30 seconds, then it would smooth out and ran fine. Codes retrieved were MAP sensor and the constant P0012.
A few days ago in a very cold morning I started the car and it ran very rough for a few seconds and died. Wouldn’t restart at all. It cranks over fine but doesn’t seem to even try to start. The only thing I noticed the previous time I started it to let it warm up, there seemed to be a vibration in the exhaust. I wrote it off as maybe snow packed under the car along with the very strong wind.
I charged the battery, replaced the MAP sensor and still nothing. Opened INPA and of course there were about 15 codes from running the battery down to 8 volts. I cleared the codes, and tried starting - just cranked. No new codes. Crankshaft sensor shows ~ 200 rpm while cranking. VANOS actual and set points match. Fuel pump runs. I also ran ISTA-D and it showed a 2AB4 DME checksum error. Cleared it and hasn’t come back.
Any ideas? Did it jump time? I would think if it did it would crank fast due to no compression. Did the catalytic converter collapse and plug the exhaust? Is that even plausible? Do I need to reset the EWS/DME code? I’m charging the battery again now and plan to check all the fuses including the fusible links on the battery, but really I’m at a loss how to proceed.
Sorry for the long post, I’m mostly writing this to document this fiasco. Any wisdom or ideas are appreciated! Thanks ��

[ard]

Originally Posted by twarr1

2007 E70 3.0, cranks but doesn’t start.
History - for the last few months the car would ‘hiccup’ occasionally especially when hot. Then, when cold, < 32F, the engine wouldn’t accelerate after starting for about 30 seconds, then it would smooth out and ran fine. Codes retrieved were MAP sensor and the constant P0012.
A few days ago in a very cold morning I started the car and it ran very rough for a few seconds and died. Wouldn’t restart at all. It cranks over fine but doesn’t seem to even try to start. The only thing I noticed the previous time I started it to let it warm up, there seemed to be a vibration in the exhaust. I wrote it off as maybe snow packed under the car along with the very strong wind.
I charged the battery, replaced the MAP sensor and still nothing. Opened INPA and of course there were about 15 codes from running the battery down to 8 volts. I cleared the codes, and tried starting - just cranked. No new codes. Crankshaft sensor shows ~ 200 rpm while cranking. VANOS actual and set points match. Fuel pump runs. I also ran ISTA-D and it showed a 2AB4 DME checksum error. Cleared it and hasn’t come back.
Any ideas? Did it jump time? I would think if it did it would crank fast due to no compression. Did the catalytic converter collapse and plug the exhaust? Is that even plausible? Do I need to reset the EWS/DME code? I’m charging the battery again now and plan to check all the fuses including the fusible links on the battery, but really I’m at a loss how to proceed.
Sorry for the long post, I’m mostly writing this to document this fiasco. Any wisdom or ideas are appreciated! Thanks ��

Wait. Have only just read this the 4th time and picked up on this...


WHAT ews/dme code?????????????? You mentioned nothing about this.


Yes, run the battery down, keep tryong to strat and you can lock up the DME so it protects the car from theft.


You still have another issue, but likely you have tripped the anti-theft

[twarr1]

Thank you for your reply. It’s my understanding cars built after April ‘07 have EWS4 and don’t have the rolling code so don’t need the CAS/EWS reset or alignment. (I mistaking my wrote EWS/DME in the original post). I’ve definitely tried starting it over 10 times. I’ve had the battery out twice to recharge. What do I need to do?

[twarr1]

Update 1
Sprayed starting fluid in intake - no backfire, sputtering, nothing
Crankshaft rpm - ~200 rpm (INPA)
Checked spark - good
Fuel pressure - good. 597 kPa
Compression - ~90 psi
EWS4 Challenge/Response - successful (according to INPA)
EWS Actual Locking Status - 1 - I don’t know what this means. Good or bad?
Eccentric shaft motor - Used INPA to learn stops, ran from 0 to 180 degrees then selected “Back to DME”. DME set it to 47 degrees.
VANOS Actual and set point - Same

Next step - I’m not sure. Hopefully somebody has an idea? Thanks.

[pshovest]

I would check fuel pressure at rail w/gauge and not depend on pressure sensor. Harbor freight has a $30 fuel pressure tester.
Odd that engine doesn't run w/starting fluid if you have spark. Are you spraying for at least 5 seconds while cranking?
90 psi is low compression. Is engine flooded? Are plugs wet w/fuel? Is there any fuel odor at all on plugs? A flooded engine will wash oil from cylinder walls and reduce compression.
Scan for errors with ISTA and post.
Run ISTA test plan for codes.
An intake leak that causes air to bypass the MAF will prevent DME from injecting the correct amount of fuel and can prevent starting. Remove all ductwork between throttle body and MAF and inspect for leaks/cracks.
Engine will run w/o MAF. With ignition off, disconnect MAF and try to start.

[twarr1]

Originally Posted by pshovest

I would check fuel pressure at rail w/gauge and not depend on pressure sensor. Harbor freight has a $30 fuel pressure tester.
Odd that engine doesn't run w/starting fluid if you have spark. Are you spraying for at least 5 seconds while cranking?
90 psi is low compression. Is engine flooded? Are plugs wet w/fuel? Is there any fuel odor at all on plugs? A flooded engine will wash oil from cylinder walls and reduce compression.
Scan for errors with ISTA and post.
Run ISTA test plan for codes.
An intake leak that causes air to bypass the MAF will prevent DME from injecting the correct amount of fuel and can prevent starting. Remove all ductwork between throttle body and MAF and inspect for leaks/cracks.
Engine will run w/o MAF. With ignition off, disconnect MAF and try to start.

Thanks for the reply! I’ll pick up a pressure tester tomorrow.
I tried the starting fluid before checking spark, I fully expected no spark and was somewhat surprised to see a strong, blue spark. Why doesn’t it ignited the starting fluid? I would think even if it were out of time it would backfire or something unless the starting fluid is going in the intake valve and straight out the exhaust valve.
I thought 90 psi might be a little low but the engine is high mileage. (It may be further evidence of a jumped timing chain).
The plugs are black and smell of starting fluid. I couldn’t detect any raw fuel.
I inspected the air ducting when I replaced the MAF sensor, it appears fine.
After clearing codes from the run down battery, nothing of consequence came back, just fog sensor and no communication with TEL/MULF.

[twarr1]

I ran a compression test with throttle wo. 30-90 psi. Looks like a timing problem. I had the car towed to an independent BMW tech. I’ll follow up with their diagnosis.

[jimoreno]

Those compression numbers sound very low to me. Sounds like a major issue if you get that in all cylinders.

[twarr1]

Yes, the compression is very low. I didn’t set the eccentric to 176 degrees so they should’ve been even higher than normal. Even with cold, washed out cylinders I was expecting > 120 psi minimum.

[twarr1]

I had the X5 taken to an Indy shop, they said bad timing chain (based on low compression, they didn’t pull valve cover) and quoted $4500 labor to R&R engine plus cost of replacement. I trailered the car home so I can properly work on it. Removed the valve cover and installed the camshaft timing tool to find that everything is perfectly aligned! The VANOS bolts are intact, timing chain is tight and guides are in good shape.
More mystery. Now looking at blown head gasket, but there are no detectable symptoms other than the low compression.