Home Forums Articles How To's FAQ Register
Go Back   Xoutpost.com > BMW SAV Forums > X5 (E70) Forum
Fluid Motor Union
User Name
Password
Member List Premier Membership Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Xoutpost server transfer and maintenance is occurring....
Xoutpost is currently undergoing a planned server migration.... stay tuned for new developments.... sincerely, the management


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #41  
Old 06-04-2008, 11:22 PM
skarletknite's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: ny
Posts: 226
skarletknite is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian5
I've tried my remote for my V1 in a number of different locations. I don't see that having it on the right side of the mirrow will work at all.
1. It's no longer hidden from the rear
2. It's really inconvenient to keep looking up at the right of the mirror.

I currently have mine positioned just below the NAV DVD on the left. My remote has been "operated on" so it's pretty thin. Still trying to figure my preferred position. Lower down and out of the direct sunlight seems to work best.
not sure what you mean, it is hidden...i have seen it in person, its totally stealth, no wires or hardware visible anywhere. it works quite well. as for having to look up to the mirror obviously personal preference, but i prefer seeing no hardware anywhere inside my e70. there is also an audible alert, so you dont have to look at anything. i found that a blinking red light in the mirror was very noticible out of my peripheral vision, so i would never have to take my eyes off the road.
Reply With Quote

Sponsored Links

  #42  
Old 06-05-2008, 06:22 AM
brian5's Avatar
Premier Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: CT, USA
Posts: 2,925
brian5 is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by skarletknite
not sure what you mean, it is hidden...i have seen it in person, its totally stealth, no wires or hardware visible anywhere. it works quite well. as for having to look up to the mirror obviously personal preference, but i prefer seeing no hardware anywhere inside my e70. there is also an audible alert, so you dont have to look at anything. i found that a blinking red light in the mirror was very noticible out of my peripheral vision, so i would never have to take my eyes off the road.
Hey, it's not a big deal. If it works for you, then that's good.

1. Regarding not being hidden from the rear, my Navigation letter in my mirror is not hidden right now. It is VERY obvious from the rear. Having V1 arrows and dots would also be visible to followers. (I'm not talking about the wiring.)
2. I know there's an audible alert; I wasn't implying that one should look at the remote all the time. The point is that one of the good things about the V1 is the arrows so it would be really handy to have it be in your peripheral vision without having to turn your head away from road...
Reply With Quote
  #43  
Old 06-05-2008, 12:33 PM
drod's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: New York!!
Posts: 821
drod is on a distinguished road
what did something like that cost you???

what type of work was done to get that installed like that???

just curious...

I'm a DIYer but i wouldn't do it if it required alot of soldering and custom fabrication of the mirror...
__________________
2012 X5 50i M-Sport
2014 X3 35i M-Sport
Reply With Quote
  #44  
Old 09-03-2008, 07:18 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 6
X5Mod is on a distinguished road
Direct Wire in an E70

Yes, I have hardwired a Passport 8500 in BOTH a 2005 X5 and in my (two week old) 2008 X5. It really can be done without a lot of effort. The hardwire is to a switched power supply, so if you somehow leave the unit on, it won't be able to drain the battery. I also had no interferance with this hardwire and any of the other electronics in the car. My vehicles are leased, and when I turned over the 2005 X5, I simply disconnected the unit and removed it to use it again in the 2008 X5. The 2005 X5 hardwire install was easier than that of the 2008.

Unlike other jobs I've done, I took no photographs, but can lead you through the install. I'll write up a complete description....details to follow.

To do this install you'll need the following (assuming an 8500, althogh any other detector is essentially the same):

1. Direct Wire SmartCord or Direct Wire Cord
(SEE: http://www.escortradar.com/shop.htm ). NOTE: If you decide to use the SmartCord, you will need more time to complete the project as you'll need to artfully cut a hole in the plastic that also houses the lights, switches for the sunroof, etc. If you want to do this right, be prepared to spend a 45 minutes to an hour progressively cutting/shaping the oval hole needed. The "Direct Wire" connection doesn't require this step.
2. Plastic Spatula (like for mixing paint, etc.) about 1" in width. Nice for atraumatically prying out lights, other plastic fittings. I use a set of " Standard Medium Strength Plastic " fromwww.bojoinc.com .
3. Drill or dremel moto tool
4. Assorted round files
5. 320 grit (or so) sandpaper
6. Torx screwdrivers

The key elements in this install are:
1. Removing the headliner plastic cover containing the lights, switches, etc. to gain access to the electric power for the detector.
2. Identifying the 12 volt SWITCHED wire to connect to the unit.
3. Cutting a small groove/trough in the front drivers side of the above plastic cover to allow you when the entire project is done, to pull out the cable that connects to the radar detector (whether you've mounted it by suction cup to the windshield or with a clip to the visor) AND THEN EASILY stuff it back inside so that all that is visible is the RJ connector projecting out of the plastic cover (it's barely visible from inside and outside the car).

Finally, if you did like I did and need to reset the sunroof (because you opened it up during the install, didn't close it, disconnected the sunroof switch and then reconnected the switch - DOH!), I can also tell you how to do that (it takes 4 minutes - can't imagine what dealer would charge !).

More details to follow. I'll try to take some pics.

Last edited by X5Mod; 09-05-2008 at 02:34 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #45  
Old 10-15-2008, 08:25 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Canada
Posts: 22
Darkz is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by X5Mod
Yes, I have hardwired a Passport 8500 in BOTH a 2005 X5 and in my (two week old) 2008 X5. It really can be done without a lot of effort. The hardwire is to a switched power supply, so if you somehow leave the unit on, it won't be able to drain the battery. I also had no interferance with this hardwire and any of the other electronics in the car. My vehicles are leased, and when I turned over the 2005 X5, I simply disconnected the unit and removed it to use it again in the 2008 X5. The 2005 X5 hardwire install was easier than that of the 2008.

Unlike other jobs I've done, I took no photographs, but can lead you through the install. I'll write up a complete description....details to follow.

To do this install you'll need the following (assuming an 8500, althogh any other detector is essentially the same):

1. Direct Wire SmartCord or Direct Wire Cord
(SEE: http://www.escortradar.com/shop.htm ). NOTE: If you decide to use the SmartCord, you will need more time to complete the project as you'll need to artfully cut a hole in the plastic that also houses the lights, switches for the sunroof, etc. If you want to do this right, be prepared to spend a 45 minutes to an hour progressively cutting/shaping the oval hole needed. The "Direct Wire" connection doesn't require this step.
2. Plastic Spatula (like for mixing paint, etc.) about 1" in width. Nice for atraumatically prying out lights, other plastic fittings. I use a set of " Standard Medium Strength Plastic " fromwww.bojoinc.com .
3. Drill or dremel moto tool
4. Assorted round files
5. 320 grit (or so) sandpaper
6. Torx screwdrivers

The key elements in this install are:
1. Removing the headliner plastic cover containing the lights, switches, etc. to gain access to the electric power for the detector.
2. Identifying the 12 volt SWITCHED wire to connect to the unit.
3. Cutting a small groove/trough in the front drivers side of the above plastic cover to allow you when the entire project is done, to pull out the cable that connects to the radar detector (whether you've mounted it by suction cup to the windshield or with a clip to the visor) AND THEN EASILY stuff it back inside so that all that is visible is the RJ connector projecting out of the plastic cover (it's barely visible from inside and outside the car).

Finally, if you did like I did and need to reset the sunroof (because you opened it up during the install, didn't close it, disconnected the sunroof switch and then reconnected the switch - DOH!), I can also tell you how to do that (it takes 4 minutes - can't imagine what dealer would charge !).

More details to follow. I'll try to take some pics.
not sure if i missed any during my readings, could you tell me which SWTICH power wire you used in your E70? what color is that wire? thank you.
Reply With Quote
  #46  
Old 10-15-2008, 08:56 PM
brian5's Avatar
Premier Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: CT, USA
Posts: 2,925
brian5 is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkz
not sure if i missed any during my readings, could you tell me which SWTICH power wire you used in your E70? what color is that wire? thank you.
Lots of posts on that Try this one
Reply With Quote
  #47  
Old 10-16-2008, 01:55 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 6
X5Mod is on a distinguished road
The use of this DIY is for reference only; I disclaim all LIABILITY FOR DIRECT, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES OR INJURIES THAT RESULT FROM ANY USE OF THE EXAMPLES, INSTRUCTIONS OR OTHER INFORMATION IN THIS DIY.



DIY Hardwire Radar Install in Center Headliner

SPECS:
X5 2008 E70
3.0 si
Panoramic Roof
Passport 8500


INTRODUCTION:

CLOSE THE PANORAMIC ROOF COMPLETELY BEFORE YOU START AND DO NOT OPEN IT DURING THIS INSTALL – if you do, you’ll have to electronically reset the roof – no big deal, I can tell you how I did it.

This is the second switched hardwired radar detector install I’ve done (meaning: NO voltage is provided to the radar unit when the ignition is switched OFF, it only receives voltage when the ignition is switched ON) – the other was on an earlier X5 2005 E53. I had no problems with the switched hardwired E53 install (after 3 years of use) and thus far (after about three months) no problems with the E70 install as well. It takes a little effort and if you don’t use the X, can probably be done in less than a few hours (if it’s your first time).

By way of comparison, on 7/12/2008, QMan posted his DIY for a hardwire radar detector:
I just installed my radar detector and after quite a bit of investigation I did find a wire in the center console. It turns on when you open the door, not when you turn the key, BUT CLOSE ENOUGH. If you look at the Start/Stop button's illumination, it makes that behavior. Been using it for a week know and I am happy with it. There is a ton of circuitry in that center console. I marked up the image in this thread to identify the wire. But, I would still verify this wire's behavior beforehand.

In contradistinction, the DIY I describe ONLY works when the ignition is switched ON .

When being used, I clip the radar detector to the visor, but this set up could be easily used with the alternative suction cup attachment. Unlike the E53 install, I had to make a very minor modification in the left front edge of the center headliner console, that allows the cable (that connects to the radar unit) to “retract” into the headliner (you very easily manually feed it back into the headliner space) making it essentially invisible when the radar detector is not attached (and safely put away in the glove box).

The only other cutting of plastic was because I used the Direct Wire Smart Cord (see: http://www.escortradar.com/shop.htm ). Because of this, I had to carefully (!) cut out with a Dremel tool an oval hole in the center headliner console to accommodate the Direct Wire Muting Unit (see image). I then sparingly applied a small bead of epoxy around the Muting Unit on the inside of the headliner to secure the Muting Unit. I’m pleased at how the finished product looks. By no means are you obligated to use this Direct Wire Muting Unit, and instead can simply use the Hardwire Cord to hardwire the cable to a ground and 12Volt switched source. Your time to do the install will be considerably less if you don’t use the Direct Wire Muting Unit.











PROCEDURE:

1. Remove the center headliner light console (“console”):
Understand that the console is “hinged” at its rear end farthest from the windshield (see images). Conversely you unclip the console from the edge closest to the windshield. It is held in place on the headliner by two clips, that can be pried off by inserting a spatula or other plastic blade under the edge of the console. **NOTE**: there is plastic trim piece that overlies this area and if you can remove it, you’ll be able to see the clips I mention (see also the images to see where the clips are located).







Once the console has been unclipped, detach it from its electrical connectors – they’re standard connectors that come out with little difficulty. Since each is a different size, there’s little chance you’ll reconnect them incorrectly if you don’t remember what their proper connection ordering is.

You need to get the console out of the way so you can then: (1) take the console out of the vehicle so you can trim a small amount of plastic from the edge (so the cable can move freely in and out), (2) access the 12volt wire to connect, (3) access the grounding screw to establish a ground.


1. Trim Headliner on left side (driver’s side).
The purpose of doing this is to allow the cable to be pulled out to connect to radar unit and then be EASILY pushed back into the space above the console when the radar unit is no longer in use. I used a rat-tail file to slowly and carefully remove a hemi-circle shaped piece of plastic. Note that you need to file BOTH the black AND grey plastic portion of the console. (see images).

2. Identify the 12 volt switched wire.
The best I can describe this is the wire you’re going to use is NOT found on any of the connectors to console as described above. Instead it is a Green/White wire found bundle wrapped with others and lying in front above the headliner, towards the windshield. (see images for the location of the wire). You’ll have to conservatively unwrap the wire from the bundle to make it more accessible. The next part described is confirmatory and may not be necessary.



Once you’ve identified this wire, I suggest you use a voltmeter to test it with the IGNITION ON and THE CAR MOTOR RUNNING (i.e. the car is parked with the parking brake on and car is “running”) to confirm the wire is 12 volts switched. NOTE that it can be difficult to get a good connection from the voltmeter to the 12 volt wire – I used an alligator clip firmly attached to the wire when I confirmed it was the one I wanted to use. REMEMBER: You need to establish a good ground otherwise it will appear that it doesn’t have the necessary voltage (trust me). After this, turn off the engine and switch off ignition. .

3. Identify the ground.
I used the torx screw as in the image as the grounding source. Loosen screw, slide ground lead under, tighten screw down tight (!).



4. Reconnect the electrical connectors on the headliner, replace the headliner light console, making sure that the cable isn’t being pinched and can FREELY move in and out.
Reply With Quote
  #48  
Old 10-16-2008, 11:22 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Canada
Posts: 22
Darkz is on a distinguished road
nice post man! appreciated!
Reply With Quote
  #49  
Old 11-15-2008, 06:21 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 133
Mabuhay is on a distinguished road
Fedmax,

In reading your Valentine 1 install, how did you remove the center interior trim? I am afraid that I will break some plastic trims. I removed one screw towards the front of the car, but the piece still will not come out.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Armand
Attached Images
 
__________________
2004 Porsche 911 C4S X51, Seal Grey / Black
2006 Porsche Boxster S, Guards Red / Sand Beige
2008 BMW X5 4.8i, Black Sapphire / Saddle Brown
2001 Audi A4 1.8tq, Laser Red / Black, APR Stage 2, H&R Coilovers
2002 Suzuki GSX600 Katana, Yellow
Reply With Quote
  #50  
Old 11-15-2008, 06:32 PM
Denalio's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,331
Denalio is on a distinguished road
After you remove the torx screw at the front you will have to gently pull the panel to unlock the plastic expansion clips ( I think there are three). Then pull the panel towards the front of the vehicle to disengage the slide locking clips.
__________________
2013 BMW X6M-current
2013 Audi S4-current
2007 BMW X5 4.8i (E70)-sold
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On





All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:05 PM.
vBulletin, Copyright 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. SEO by vBSEO 3.6.0
© 2017 Xoutpost.com. All rights reserved. Xoutpost.com is a private enthusiast site not associated with BMW AG.
The BMW name, marks, M stripe logo, and Roundel logo as well as X3, X5 and X6 designations used in the pages of this Web Site are the property of BMW AG.
This web site is not sponsored or affiliated in any way with BMW AG or any of its subsidiaries.