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  #11  
Old 06-03-2010, 01:02 PM
z2g z2g is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viperfreak2 View Post
Buy a small, rolling air-compressor, blow dry it.
Funny you said that....I actually have an electric leaf blower that I bought specifically for washing my cars. I don't use it for my black cars though. It dries up the water too quickly and creates hard water streaks.

I think I'll start washing and drying my X5 in sections. Usually, I wash the entire car and then dry the entire car. I'll wash, then dry each section individually to avoid the water marks.
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  #12  
Old 06-03-2010, 01:23 PM
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Microscratches do not need to be a part of life. It all starts with preparation.

To remove them, you'll need to use an orbital buffer. A professional detailer will be needed for this and it should cost no more than $200.00.

Steps to avoid the scratches in the future:
1) wash the car with water (need not be distilled)
2) use separate towels (terry cloth) and a separate bucket to clean the wheels first
3) use another set ( of microfiber towels and another bucket) to clean the lower portion of the car using a high quality car wash.
4) Use a final set of microfiber and yet another bucket to wash the remainder.
5) Rinse and dry with clean microfiber towels moving in one direction only. Never dry in a circular fashion.
4) wax with a high quality wax that contains no polishing compounds, whatsoever.

Though, if you've not clayed your car, you'll need to do that before even starting the orbital buffer. Given your expertise, I would leave that up to the professional detailer. It's easy to avoid scratches on even the most delicate finishes. Swirl marks are evidence of improper cleaning, nothing else. They are caused by humans, not mother nature.

The best place to read more is Autopia Computer Products Inc. or you can purchase several books from that site. It's also a great place to buy product. Remember the brake dust is made up of microscopic iron particles coming from your rotors and pads. They are very sharp and will scratch your paint on contact, if you use the same towels for wheels that you do for paint.

That right there is the most common cause of swirls.

Best of luck and don't freak. I could remove them and provide you with a factory fresh finish in less than 1 hr. if with a $100.00 orbital buffer and some high quality product, as can any professional detailer.

(used to own a shop, back when I was a kid)
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  #13  
Old 06-03-2010, 01:26 PM
z2g z2g is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ABMW View Post
Microscratches do not need to be a part of life. It all starts with preparation.

To remove them, you'll need to use an orbital buffer. A professional detailer will be needed for this and it should cost no more than $200.00.

Steps to avoid the scratches in the future:
1) wash the car with water (need not be distilled)
2) use separate towels (terry cloth) and a separate bucket to clean the wheels first
3) use another set ( of microfiber towels and another bucket) to clean the lower portion of the car using a high quality car wash.
4) Use a final set of microfiber and yet another bucket to wash the remainder.
5) Rinse and dry with clean microfiber towels moving in one direction only. Never dry in a circular fashion.
4) wax with a high quality wax that contains no polishing compounds, whatsoever.

Though, if you've not clayed your car, you'll need to do that before even starting the orbital buffer. Given your expertise, I would leave that up to the professional detailer. It's easy to avoid scratches on even the most delicate finishes. Swirl marks are evidence of improper cleaning, nothing else. They are caused by humans, not mother nature.

The best place to read more is Autopia Computer Products Inc. or you can purchase several books from that site. It's also a great place to buy product. Remember the brake dust is made up of microscopic iron particles coming from your rotors and pads. They are very sharp and will scratch your paint on contact, if you use the same towels for wheels that you do for paint.

That right there is the most common cause of swirls.

Best of luck and don't freak. I could remove them and provide you with a factory fresh finish in less than 1 hr. if with a $100.00 orbital buffer and some high quality product, as can any professional detailer.

(used to own a shop, back when I was a kid)
Thanks! Great info.
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  #14  
Old 06-03-2010, 01:32 PM
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that should be autopia.org arghh SORRY guys and gals for that bad link!
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  #15  
Old 06-03-2010, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ABMW View Post
Microscratches do not need to be a part of life. It all starts with preparation.

To remove them, you'll need to use an orbital buffer. A professional detailer will be needed for this and it should cost no more than $200.00.

Steps to avoid the scratches in the future:
1) wash the car with water (need not be distilled)
2) use separate towels (terry cloth) and a separate bucket to clean the wheels first
3) use another set ( of microfiber towels and another bucket) to clean the lower portion of the car using a high quality car wash.
4) Use a final set of microfiber and yet another bucket to wash the remainder.
5) Rinse and dry with clean microfiber towels moving in one direction only. Never dry in a circular fashion.
4) wax with a high quality wax that contains no polishing compounds, whatsoever.

Though, if you've not clayed your car, you'll need to do that before even starting the orbital buffer. Given your expertise, I would leave that up to the professional detailer. It's easy to avoid scratches on even the most delicate finishes. Swirl marks are evidence of improper cleaning, nothing else. They are caused by humans, not mother nature.

The best place to read more is Autopia Computer Products Inc. or you can purchase several books from that site. It's also a great place to buy product. Remember the brake dust is made up of microscopic iron particles coming from your rotors and pads. They are very sharp and will scratch your paint on contact, if you use the same towels for wheels that you do for paint.

That right there is the most common cause of swirls.

Best of luck and don't freak. I could remove them and provide you with a factory fresh finish in less than 1 hr. if with a $100.00 orbital buffer and some high quality product, as can any professional detailer.

(used to own a shop, back when I was a kid)
Good advice.

IMO, **ANY** towel can cause microscratches. If you rinse with hard water, stuff in the water will deposit in the towel AND on the surface- when you use a towel to avoid water spots you've just distributed the residue that would be in a spot over a larger area to make it less noticeable.

With a black car, it is almost a requirement to have DI water.

Arguably, you can do a clean/clay/buff/wax with DI- the trick is to protect and maintain a pristine surface until you can protect it with wax- and then be a *bit* more relaxed once there is some wax (or Zaino) on the surface. Then 'maintenance washes' can be with regular water, but you will have slight dulling if the water is hard.



To add, I wash a car in 5 stages-

Stage 1: first soap up the whole car. You can use a foam gun, or just take a sponge and fling soap/foam from the bucket (I've never seen the need for the foam gun myself.)

Stage 2: Wheels and wheel wells. After doing the wheels and wheel wells, I rinse the whole car- the foam has sat on the dirt for a few minutes at least.

Stage 3: I then wash the roof and windows- allowing the foam to run down. Once this is done I again rinse.

Stage 4: Next with a fresh mitt I do all the "high visual areas: hood, sides above the fold.... then sides to the belt molding, then rear upper. Rinse.

Stage 5: Then the lower part of the car.

I'd NEVER, EVER own a black car! The darkest I have is a Slate gray TT and that makes me crazy...even the bronze on the X5 I can see microscratches if I look...so I try not to.

A
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  #16  
Old 06-03-2010, 02:11 PM
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I used to do a lot of detailing, and there are schools of thought that good, soft WHITE 100% cotton towels are all that you should ever use to dry or remove wax/polish etc from a vehicle.

Here's an intersting (and long) link from a site i used to buy stuff from...no affiliation just some good "how to" articles here....

How To Articles - Car Care Specialties

Until now, all my cars have been dark...swirls and scratches are part of the price you pay....when I moved to Florida it just became too much to keep wax on a dark car long enough so I've slowly migrated to white...still it has it's own issues as well.
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  #17  
Old 06-04-2010, 08:16 AM
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Best color I've ever had: Blue water metallic. Almost never washed the car, never noticed any scratches, always looked good, even during winter. Worst color: Black Saphire. Oy.

I've had 30 in the last 15 years, so I've been through every color in rapid order.
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  #18  
Old 06-04-2010, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Viperfreak2 View Post
Best color I've ever had: Blue water metallic. Almost never washed the car, never noticed any scratches, always looked good, even during winter. .

My DD is an Bluewater M5. Paint is very, very nice- but plenty of road rash after 128k miles. Hides it well....
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  #19  
Old 06-04-2010, 01:23 PM
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I never get to keep a car much over 8,000-10,000 miles. That's the good side, the bad side is I cannot modify ANYTHING, ever.
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