What have you done to your E70 today?

[Toothbrush]

Originally Posted by Nanniepoo

Ironically enough this all started with noticing some oil drips on pavement when I went to check oil before letting wife drive.

This is a requirement for these vehicles - checking it out before letting someone else drive it. Pretty sure there's a Service Bulletin for this specifically somewhere.

[Daytonawim]

Had some brake vibrations around 80 km/h, so I changed the front tension struts ( used Meyle HD) it looks fine now.

Was an easy job, it took me 2 hours and I did it slowly, everything was very easy to remove.

From the old ones looks the balljoints in good condition ( after 220 k km) maybee I will replace the bussings for original ones I put them on the shelf.


Last week I did the rear brakes, used OEM parts disks and pads, was also fairly easy.

[Daytonawim]

Had some brake vibrations around 80 km/h, so I changed the front tension struts ( used Meyle HD) it looks fine now.

Was an easy job, it took me 2 hours and I did it slowly, everything was very easy to remove.

From the old ones looks the balljoints in good condition ( after 220 k km) maybee I will replace the bussings for original ones I put them on the shelf.


Last week I did the rear brakes, used OEM parts disks and pads, was also fairly easy.

[80stech]

That's good to hear about the tension struts I was going to do mine as well and was thinking of doing only the bushings but I have done that before on the E53 and was a total pita trying to change bushings while leaving the ball joint connected. I ordered the bushing and the arm in the end because I didn't want to be stuck if the bushing change didn't go well or the ball joint was worn out. It looks like the E70 ball joints are fairly large so good to hear that you have the 220k on them and still good! I have only 110K on mine but I think I will do same as you and change the struts and re-bush the old original ones. This would be a good time to buy the specialized kit for doing the strut bushings on the car but the darn thing is too pricey for using only a time or two.

[Daytonawim]

U are right, replacing the bushings while the joint is on, is horrible, also the busching must be placed on the right way, otherwise it’s gone after a few thousand miles.

The joint nuts are a bit difficult to loosen, you need an socket 27 with 24 tooth.
I used an 2 kg brass hammer, two wacks with and the joint was free. ( both sides)

And don’t forget only tighten the ( new) bolts on the busching side after you put the car on his wheels, drive it for a few meters then torque to 100nm and then 90 degrees,

The joint is 80 nm ( also new bolt)

But if you could buy a set at FCP, you get lifetime free replace.

I ordered a compleet front set of all arms for 500 euro’s (got 50% reduction ) otherwise 1000 euro’s.

[andrewwynn]

New serpentine belt after about 4000 miles! Apparently the idler pulley deformed and a sharp point developed, started to cut the 8th rib off!

If you change a serp, take the time to clean out all the grooves on the pulleys! The PS and the AC pulleys were very loaded with old belt material!

Also, for anybody with N55 plant, if you ever removed the fan you know what a pain in the ass getting the fan past the lower hose is—been wanting to do this for almost two years:




I cut the spar that tries to cut the lower hose every time in/out and it dropped in with gravity didn't even have to push. I only tapered the end I didn't remove the spar. I can't believe that is factory design.

Prob 60-70% of the original strength and there are 5 more so I have zero concern of loss of strength.

[andrewwynn]

I "used it". 50 gallon gas water heater. I had to move my seat up about 2 inches.

[Zdubx5]

Today Changed both upper and lower radiator hoses as well as the coolant temperature sensor in my 2013 X5 e70 n55.

[andrewwynn]

Replaced the seal on my oil level sensor. It was hard like plastic and leaving a puddle about 8-10" diameter holy hell!

I used the vacuum cleaner assist method: using a roll of electrical tape my M18 Milwaukee vacuum fits into the middle and the suction alone holds the tape roll tight.

I had a friend guide the hose just in case the drop in vacuum when I pulled the sensor off would release the roll.

It was terrifying watching the oil try its best to come out 5-8x a second, it's very loud I wish i took video.

I've used the vacuum method on both our N55 motors to change the drain plugs to models with built in valve but the sensor hole is 6-8x as large. I've seen videos of it done but they used a much larger shop vac vs. my battery 2gal model.

I also use the vac when changing oil to remove the oil filter cap. In the past when i didn't i always get oil down the side of the filter housing.

I also changed the o-ring on the coolant hose that goes toward the oil filter housing. It was leaking like crazy.

Tapatalk is not uploading photos at the moment I'll try to add later.

My son left the oil cap off my car and dumped 1/2 qt of oil over half the engine bay and of course enough got onto the serp belt it started to disintegrate. I had a spare but it made a disaster out of the three idler pulleys!

A mini angle grinder with a cup wire wheel and held at just the right angle made fairly quick work of took m taking the mm thick layer of rubber off the three pulleys. At least this time no v belts in every groove of the grooved pulleys.

[andrewwynn]

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