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  #41  
Old 02-23-2015, 06:25 AM
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Repete is on a distinguished road
Well I completed this job yesterday, with much thanks to Gregg's write up. So I'd like to add a few points from my experience for those taking this on. In addition to the valley pan (which was obviously the problem) and coolant pipe (URO) I also replaced the water pump/thermostat, both belts, various seals and the simple cabin air filters.

I deduced I had the valley pan leak as I found the coolant leaking down onto the bell housing and leaving traces of blue coolant down the sides. There was no coolant out of the front weep hole of the timing cover. Also when I removed the rubber 'drain plugs' on the bottom of the bell housing it was dry. If there had been signs of coolant coming out here, the problem would be the much more involved gasket inside the trans/engine connection.

While the write up was very helpful, an Ipad on the workbench was great. I found the water-pump and belts replacement much more difficult and time consuming than the simple instructions above might have suggested.

My first unexpected problem was the tensioner pulley for the accessory belt, very difficult to get to the upside-down torx bolt (T45 I believe). So I drove a mis-sized nut onto the treads on the tip of the bolt from the top that allowed me to simply loosen and tighten the bolt from the top side (righty-loosely, lefty-tighty). Needless to say I left this cross-threaded nut in place for any future jobs. I did still need to break it free initially using the torx head from with an upside-down ratchet from the topside.

Second speed bump was getting the harmonic balancer off but this is probably due to the Canadian corrosion. With enough penetrating spray, tapping and prying I finally got it off and put some anti-seize on during reassembly. Considering how difficult it was to remove, I thought maybe the large center bolt had to come off too, but I read it does not. For reassembly there is a small key pin that needs to be lined up.

Third, to replace the serpentine belt you need to remove the guard/cover over the power-steering pump, 3x10mm nuts to be removed. Not too bad, but I found it was easiest to get the bottom nut off from under the car with a wrench. The torx head bolts don't need to come out.

The DIY didn't mention when to drain the coolant (using the blue drain on the rad) but I did it right before taking off the water pump. There was still a lot of fluid that spilled out, I'm sure there is a better way but I just used a lot of towels and buckets to limit my environmental damage.

I had disconnected the oil sensor as suggested but wasted a lot of time trying to 'rout' the wire out but could not figure how to get it out, let alone back in place. I had considered cutting the wire but found I could work around it. In fact I think you could probably leave most if not all of the 5 passenger side electrical wires (that pass under the fuel crossover pipe) in place. The manifold comes out forward and I rotated it to the left out of the way but still in the engine bay to complete the rest of the job. So no need to remove the oil sensor wire in my experience.

The coolant pipe job was straight forward though I didn't need to drill the hole to get the front pipe out. I put a section of paperboard (cereal box) under the pipe to catch all the debris. I did find that one of the tips on the plastic "Y-connector" was broken and could have also been a contributing factor to the leak. I glued and wired it back to together as best as possible and will have to order a new one asap.

Also you might try removing the 3 rear wires after lifting the manifold up and forward some. I did this on reassembly and there was enough length in the wires for a couple inches of additional working space.

I thought it would take me about 8 hours, told my wife it was going to take about 12 hrs and in the end it was a 15 hr marathon to complete the jobs. But there were a number of items that were time thieves for me, not including bouts of parenting my 3 young children.

Tools I found most useful:
- work/trouble light
- flex extensions for sockets
- magnet to place nuts into place
- sharp pics for seal removals
- large selection of torx sockets and drivers

Thanks gregg3gs for the DIY pics. Good luck!
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  #42  
Old 02-23-2015, 09:59 AM
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Good job getting it done. I agree with you about belt tensioner...has the be the stupidest design ever. I was able to completely remove the adjusting bolt/tensioner. I then cut a slot on the end (top side when installed) of the adjuster bolt. This allows me to use a screw driver (from the top side) to tighten/loosen the bolt in the future.

For people that don't know what we are talking about, the head of bolt is blocked by other hardware difficult to move/remove (I forget what it is that is block access), so getting a torx socket on it is difficult at best.
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  #43  
Old 03-25-2015, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cravin View Post
So much for my being proud of myself for replacing the side view mirror on the Jeep yesterday.
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  #44  
Old 03-25-2015, 06:09 PM
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The AC tensioner on the 4.8, it's a b$%@#. The way you get to the screw is with a 1/4 inch drive torx bit, swivel, and a couple extensions. You squeeze in between the crossmember. It can be done. If you haven't invested in the ultimate set of 1/4 inch tools, you are SOL working in and around the engine bay.
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  #45  
Old 03-25-2015, 06:55 PM
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wsmeyer is on a distinguished road
Add me to the group that dremeled a slot in the bottom of the screw for a flat blade screwdriver.
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  #46  
Old 07-03-2015, 03:13 AM
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Originally Posted by BMWjason View Post
Nice Job. Now throw the 2.0 bar coolant cap in the trash and replace it with 1.4 bar cap from a 1 or 3 series, buy it from the dealer, not the aftermarket, the inside of the cap will be yellow, and the package should say made in Austria, it is manufactured by Behr. Do not use aftermarket cap. The rear bellhousing coolant pan will be the next leak if you fail to do this. Summertime is hard on these cooling systems and the 29 PSI of pressure. I have been running the 1.4 bar cap for 6 months in Florida with no issues.
Any updates from people who have switched to the 1.4 bar cap from the 2007 BMW 335i bought directly from the BMW dealership?

Considering replacing the cap on my '08 4.8i X5 now that I've had the new collapsible coolant pipe installed and the coolant flushed.
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  #47  
Old 07-03-2015, 10:04 AM
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dig for valley pipe coolant leak

Very good info thanks!
Fyi No brag but I am quite possibly the world's most interesting man
And one thing I do is diy to get "diy credits" with with HER.
I therefore collect info like this as It can lead to honeymoon behavior from her.
Thanks again ;-)
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  #48  
Old 07-03-2015, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron07x5 View Post
I therefore collect info like this as It can lead to honeymoon behavior from her.
Thanks again ;-)
It could swing either way, you know....
As we all have learned, with DIY you can gain a huge advantage or get in a really big trouble
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  #49  
Old 11-11-2015, 07:29 PM
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is it easy to replace alternator bracket seal at the same time of doing coolant pipe?
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  #50  
Old 11-11-2015, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by runnerX View Post
is it easy to replace alternator bracket seal at the same time of doing coolant pipe?
Two separate jobs with very little overlap in work.
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