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mam4.6 12-02-2014 01:47 PM

Vacation project-product list help...
 
I'm looking forward to a long Christmas-New Year vacation, and want to do quite a bit of detail work on my X and my work truck, which literally gets TONS of road grime on! My brother wants help with his black Escalade if we get time. I used to do quite a bit of ''amateur detailing'' in my teenage years for pocket money. :) I've been doing quite a bit of reading in the detailing forum here, and discovered I'm quite a cave man when it comes to ''shine time.''

Here's what I've been using, (go ahead, hate on me, I'm here to learn!)

Bleche-Wite on wheels and tires (harsh chems, terrible, I know)

MEGUIARS Gold Class-
car shampo
clay bar
wax

foam applicator

Micro-fiber towels

Black Magic Gel Tire Shine
apply-let set-wipe down


I'd like to support DD as much as possible with my future car care products. This is what I came up with so far- not in this order, this is just a product list-

1st time only-wash with dish soap to strip all previous waxes, and then never again.

Adam's Car Shampoo w/ Uber wool mit

Autoglym Intense Tar Remover

Nanoskin Auto Scrub for decon

Tarminator for wheels and tires

Adam's Super VRT dressing

Sonax PNS to seal wheels

SF4500 for interior

3-M cutting and polishing for paint correction

Opti-Coat to seal- literally don't have time to wax every couple months, this seems like a good alternative...

Adams Americana on top

I need a deep-cleaner for the Shadow-line trim, more than just a polish. What do you reccomend?

When I got my roof resprayed, looks like someone let a sander slide all the way down the windshield, right in front of the driver's seat. Can't see it unless the sun hits just right, but it looks terrible when it does. Overlapping half-circles, all the way down. Can I polish this out? With what?

Ready, GO! Let the ridiculing/suggestions fly...

Ricky Bobby 12-03-2014 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mam4.6 (Post 1018457)

Here's what I've been using, (go ahead, hate on me, I'm here to learn!)

Bleche-Wite on wheels and tires (harsh chems, terrible, I know)
Terrible, throw it out now. Use Adam's APC or Optimum Power Clean, at least those won't give you cancer. I would use either of them at full strength, on tires only.

You use Bleche-Wite on wheels too? Stop immediately. You can dilute APC 1:6 for wheel cleaning if you want, but I would just use an iron fighting cleaner like Sonax Full Effect Plus to deep clean the wheels, then when they are clean, use some Polymer Net Shield for protection, and you'll only have to maintain them with soapy water and brushes! I get about 4 months out of a coat of sealant on wheels, so I only "deep clean" wheels 3 times a year max.

MEGUIARS Gold Class-
car shampo
clay bar
wax
Meg's shampoo and Clay is ok, I'd say use it up if its on your shelf (also use it on wheels as I mentioned above). If you are buying from Phil, buy the Adam's Car Shampoo, its my favorite because its sudsy, slick, and smells awesome, he sells it in a kit. The Clay you can buy from Phil too, the uber yellow clay works well.

Meg's wax? Which one are you using now. Most of the OTC waxes have fillers in them, I can recommend you a better LSP most likely.

foam applicator - Get a few of them, and a couple Hex grip applicators and MF applicators for applying sealants/etc, I keep an applicator dedicated to each product to avoid cross contamination, and clean them out with APC and hot water after each use.

Micro-fiber towels - This is where I don't cheap out, buy the good towels from Phil @ DD and stock up, and buy the MF detergent as well so you can use them for years. His ultra plush towels are great for removing waxes after polishing.

Black Magic Gel Tire Shine
apply-let set-wipe down
Again I don't trust many of the products in the big box stores, my buddy used Lucas Tire Shine and stained his paint because of the chemicals in there. I use Adam's Super VRT as a tire and trim (black plastic) dressing, but if you like shine, I would recommend Adam's Tire Shine. At least its safe. I apply on tires and trim with a foam applicator so no overspray or splatter.


I'd like to support DD as much as possible with my future car care products. This is what I came up with so far- not in this order, this is just a product list-

1st time only-wash with dish soap to strip all previous waxes, and then never again. I would just add 2-3 oz of APC to the Meg's car shampoo bucket as a strip wash, I hate using dish soap.

Adam's Car Shampoo w/ Uber wool mitt Use the two bucket method (DD sells grit guard buckets) and a third bucket dedicated to wheel/tire cleaning - I call this the 3 bucket method or 3BM. Get a gallon of the shampoo with the Uber Wool Mitt, and use the mitt only on the top and up to the beltline of the car, get the Uber Yellow Sponge to put in your bucket and use it on the lower beltline below, for the rest of the car. Always use 2 wash medias.

Autoglym Intense Tar Remover Never used it but for Tar/Bugs I buy Stoner Tarminator from Phil.

Nanoskin Auto Scrub for decon - Fine grade mitt works great, use it according to directions. I prefer to follow up with clay after using the mitt.

Tarminator for wheels and tires - Only on heavy grime with a cheap MF towel to spray on and wipe off old dressings, otherwise for normal use use an APC and brushes.

Adam's Super VRT dressing - Yes

Sonax PNS to seal wheels Yes and you can use it on door jambs, and paint too! It works great!

SF4500 for interior - This is a final ultra fine polish? Not sure

3-M cutting and polishing for paint correction - I don't have experience with the 3M line but I use Menzerna FG400 for correcting and if needed I follow up with Menzerna SF4000 or Sonax Perfect Finish 4/6 as a final polish.

Opti-Coat to seal- literally don't have time to wax every couple months, this seems like a good alternative... - If you do your correction properly you can apply Opti Coat, see my note below though.

Adams Americana on top - I wouldn't top Opti Coat with Americana because of the solvent content in paste waxes. I would only top with PNS, but honestly, with 2 quick coats of PNS you will get 6 months of protection so I don't know why you wouldn't just stick with PNS or a high quality liquid sealant.

I need a deep-cleaner for the Shadow-line trim, more than just a polish. What do you reccomend? - See my notes about Menzerna FG400 and SF4000 above. The Shadowline trim needs to be compounded and polished just like the paint, use 4" pads on your DA polisher and go to town, it will take a while and you probably won't get them 100%, but mine are about 90% now. Years of abuse from previous owner. A deep cleaner is not going to do anything (if you're referring to what I think which is a cleaner wax), you probably have some embedded and etched stains and such which need to be corrected out.

When I got my roof resprayed, looks like someone let a sander slide all the way down the windshield, right in front of the driver's seat. Can't see it unless the sun hits just right, but it looks terrible when it does. Overlapping half-circles, all the way down. Can I polish this out? With what?
- For Glass, you can do a test spot with a polishing pad and a compound for paint, since glass is harder than paint it shouldn't scratch. Note I said to test it first. I've polished glass with metal polish, and paint polish, and it makes it better, but if you have deep scratches you'd need to use Car Pro CeriGlass which is a Cerium Oxide polish which is the only thing that can truly cut and polish glass. Try least aggressive method first.

Ready, GO! Let the ridiculing/suggestions fly...

Hope I started you out nicely :)

E38flagship 12-03-2014 02:00 PM

When your cutting run your buffer at low speeds the lower the speed the less swirls you will get, you see people running buffers at high speed and that's just the worst

mam4.6 12-03-2014 02:01 PM

Started me out VERY nicely, J, I was hoping you would help me out! You seem to take care of your X, and know what your doing.

I'm hoping to start on my brother's Esky first, before mine. His paint literally looks like it was never cleaned or waxed. Contamination and serious swirls. Hoping to decon it and then hit it with the FG400. Looks like Phil gets some pretty amazing results with it. What pad would you reccomend using? Also need to get rid of a couple fine (but visible) scratches in my paint. Reccomendations on pad/polish for that?

I might end up finishing up with PNS if I can get 6 months out of it. Probably would be easier and quicker than trying to get it perfect with Opti-Coat.

I'll probably only use Adam's dressing on tires. I use an applicator to dress my tires, let it penetrate a couple hours, then wipe down. I just wanted them nice and black.

I'll give the Menzerna a go on my trim. I had had it looking good soon after I got it. When it went to the mechanic for awhile I'm guessing he left it outside for some time in the rain, looked terrible when I got it back.

I'll check exactly what wax I'm using when I get home from work.

Disregard the interior cleaner, had something else in mind.

Thanks again!

mam4.6 12-03-2014 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by E38flagship (Post 1018590)
When your cutting run your buffer at low speeds the lower the speed the less swirls you will get, you see people running buffers at high speed and that's just the worst

Thanks, will definitely keep it in mind...

Any suggestions on running buffer left/right, up/down, or in circles?

Ricky Bobby 12-03-2014 02:26 PM

If you're a beginner I wouldn't recommend a buffer (rotary).

I would recommend getting the Griots 6" DA from Phil, with the Uber Foam pads.

FG400 is a great compound but if the Escalade is a hammered black it will take multiple passes with MF cutting pads to get it looking decent again.

For fine but visible scratches in your paint, again I'd start with least aggressive method first. For me and my shelf, that is the SF4000 or Sonax Perfect Finish with the Uber Green Foam pad. If I want more power, I step up to the Uber Orange pad with same products. If I'm compounding I can use the FG400 with the Orange pad, but I mostly use the MF cutting pads because its quicker and finishes nicely.

Always start with least aggressive pad/polish combo and work your way down.

I would watch Garry Dean, Larry Kosilla (AMMO NYC) and Mike Phillips videos on how to use a DA machine properly, even though it is a basic tool to use and you won't burn your paint, you need to use it properly to be proficient in orbital polishing.

For the shadowline trim, the reason it came back looking like crap is whatever fillers in the products you were using wore off and thats why when you got it back the trim showed what it "truly" looks like. Once you machine polish it (and the products I mentioned have no fillers) it will be permanently looking better.

Good luck man hit me up if you need anything, proper detailing is a true regimen and once you're "caught up" maintaining it is easy, but to be honest the most marring of the paint comes from improper washing/drying techniques in my experience.

E38flagship 12-03-2014 02:49 PM

Foam pads all day ^ good advise. I have a Milwaukee nice variable speed. Doesn't matter what way you cut I put a very slight angle left or right what ever is comfortable when doing a hard cut, I lay the pad flat when removing say like in the glazing process. Another piece of advice is make sure you have the right pads you can't just go from a compound to fine polish as it will not take away the abrasion from the compound pad when doing black or dark colors I go from compound "depending on paint condition" to med, light, Polish in that order

Ricky Bobby 12-03-2014 05:18 PM

^ This is good advice when using a rotary.

Question is Matt will you be going Rotary or with a DA style machine on your work?

mam4.6 12-03-2014 07:07 PM

Great advice as always, from everyone!

J, my brother has a DA Porter and Cable, I've played around quite a bit with it, but never knew enough/never invested in the right pads/polishes to get good results. I'll be investing in a rotary just so I have the option, and so that we can work simultanously. Any info on handling the 2 different buffers?

So if I understand correctly, you suggest using microfiber cutting pads with FG400, as they cut quicker? I shouldn't need a more aggressive compound on heavily damaged black?

Concerning cleanup, how do I take care of foam and MF pads after using them? Anything special?

I've always enjoyed cleaning cars, really looking forward to being ''schooled'' and being able to make my X keep the shine longer. I'll definitely check out the vids you mentioned, J, thanks for the reference.

Thanks for clarifying pad usage, E38, can't wait to order some Uber foam pads and give em a try...

Ricky Bobby 12-04-2014 08:29 AM

Personally I have no experience detailing with a rotary, so I couldn't recommend it for a beginner as well.

Check which Porter Cable your brother has, if it's not the XP model you are gonna need a machine with more grunt. Instead of buying a rotary buy the GG6 kit from Phil which comes with 5.5" pads. If you use anything over 5.5" pads on a Porter Cable it will take you forever to get work done, the machine just doesn't have much power.

As I mentioned above I'd recommend getting 4" pads for the Porter Cable (and a backing plate) and using that for curves and tight areas like bumpers and headlights, etc and use the GG6 with 5.5" pads for the larger sections of car. This is what I do.

MF cutting pads will cut more than Orange foam but they are very friendly and will finish really nice. Please watch videos on using them and you'll need to fluff the fibers up with a brush after each section pass. If the fibers flatten down they won't be correcting. Don't use MF cutting pads on a rotary although that should be self explanatory.

If you need more aggressive than Meg's MF cutting pads and FG400 on black, you might as well be wet sanding. FG400 is rated to remove 1200 grit scratches.

As far as clean up, just soak the hell out of the spent pads with APC, massage into the pads, and rinse them out well with HOT water until there is nothing coming out anymore, then wring them out and air dry.

Again your choice on rotary vs DA but you don't run risk of burning paint with rotary and you won't be chasing buffer trails, holograms, etc and won't need 3 different polishes to get LSP ready.

mam4.6 12-04-2014 10:41 AM

I'll check out his DA to see exactly what he's got. Thanks for the advice on Phil's package, I think I'll probably go with that. Like you said, with the proper pad/polish combo on a DA, I'm sure I can get my desired results. I'll make sure to get some smaller pads, info like that is what makes getting started easier. Thanks!

The wax I currently have is Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax, I've also used their NXT Tech Wax.

I'll get back to you if I need anything once I get started. I'm planning on getting some good before/after/progress pics once I get there.

Ricky Bobby 12-04-2014 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mam4.6 (Post 1018702)
I'll check out his DA to see exactly what he's got. Thanks for the advice on Phil's package, I think I'll probably go with that. Like you said, with the proper pad/polish combo on a DA, I'm sure I can get my desired results. I'll make sure to get some smaller pads, info like that is what makes getting started easier. Thanks!

The wax I currently have is Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax, I've also used their NXT Tech Wax.

I'll get back to you if I need anything once I get started. I'm planning on getting some good before/after/progress pics once I get there.

If you order a GG6 package from Phil, order the one with 5 Uber Foam pads, get 3 orange and 2 green pads. I don't use the black (waxing) as I do it by hand, the yellow is too aggressive, and the blue is only for ultra soft paints like Infiniti for jeweling. Order a 2 pack, or 2- 2 packs of Megs MF cutting pads (5.5"), Phil sends all 5.5" pads and a vented 5" backing plate with his GG6 packages. You still have the option to use 6.5" pads because the plate comes with the machine but you get better correction with 5.5" pads trust me.

Wow, NXT Tech Wax, that was on my shelf 12 years ago when I got my permit at 16, and was waxing my first car in my garage lol! Its a good wax but it doesn't last as long and has some fillers which I don't like in my waxes.

Recommend Collinite 845, Menzerna Power Lock, or Sonax PNS for final LSP, use the Tech Wax and Ultimate Liquid wax on door jambs and wheels or other equipment/cars to use it up IMO.

mam4.6 12-04-2014 10:57 AM

I've never been real impressed with any wax I've used. Sure, they look good right after you're finished but don't last worth squat! Really lookin forward to checkin the good stuff out...

Ricky Bobby 12-04-2014 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mam4.6 (Post 1018709)
I've never been real impressed with any wax I've used. Sure, they look good right after you're finished but don't last worth squat! Really lookin forward to checkin the good stuff out...

Collinite will last 4 months or more, Power Lock and PNS I get about 5-6 months out of one application. And the slickness and shine of Power Lock is unreal

mam4.6 12-04-2014 12:22 PM

You say Power Lock is great for gloss and shine. I've read PNS doesn't have that smooth-to-the-touch feel, but has great shine. Just personal preference between the two? Also, can these be layered? Does the original coat need to be removed before a 6 month re-application?

Ricky Bobby 12-04-2014 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mam4.6 (Post 1018732)
You say Power Lock is great for gloss and shine. I've read PNS doesn't have that smooth-to-the-touch feel, but has great shine. Just personal preference between the two? Also, can these be layered? Does the original coat need to be removed before a 6 month re-application?

Both are great for gloss and shine and durability, and hydrophobic properties. Difference is the "surface feel", application method, and that's pretty much it.

Application method - Power Lock is traditional liquid applied with a foam or MF applicator, left to haze and wipe off residues. PNS is literally you can spray on the surface (it comes out the viscosity of a thicker QD), wipe it in and off immediately, needs no "rubbing in" or set up time. If it stays on the surface any longer than a minute or so it will dry up rock hard like a coating, and only more PNS would remove it. Literally spray it on a half a panel, take an MF towel (I prefer a lower nap and gsm for removal, not the ultra plush towels), wipe it in and off to reveal clean and shiny paint. Works AMAZING for wheels as opposed to a liquid product regarding ease of application.

If you ran your (clean) hands over two panels of paint, one sealed with Power Lock and one sealed with PNS and left to cure overnight, the PNS side would feel markedly different than the Power Lock side. Its just the nature of it. It's smooth, for sure, but Power Lock is SLICK. As in you can throw a sock on your hood and it will slide right off.

As far as layering goes, for both I'd perhaps do a second coat within a week but other than that no other topper products are needed until the 4-6 month mark or until you notice the beads aren't as tight as normal, and I wouldn't mix the two (i.e. PNS over Power Lock, etc). You'll notice when the sealant degrades a bit. I rarely ever do strip washes either, as when I am ready to reapply my twice yearly sealant its also time to decon, and between the decon spray, Nanoscrub mitt, and clay bar use, that will strip away whats left.

Personally I have uses for both in my garage and regimen so I'd just get both, I love the super slick feel of Power Lock so I tend to keep that on my cars, and I love the durability and ease of application of PNS so I tend to use that exclusively on wheels, exhaust tips, and door jambs, under hood panels, and other hard to reach areas that I couldn't get to with a foam applicator and a liquid product, where its much easier to "spray and wipe away".

mam4.6 12-04-2014 01:13 PM

Very cool, great info! I'll grab both and experiment! THANKS!

Ricky Bobby 12-04-2014 01:31 PM

You'll love both Matt be sure to show me your results and progress.

mam4.6 12-04-2014 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby (Post 1018745)
Be sure to show me your results and progress.

Most certainly!!

mam4.6 12-07-2014 06:09 PM

Just ordered a boat load of supplies from DD! Can't wait to try them out. I'll hopefully be able to post up some pics soon of the paint correction I need to do...

Ricky Bobby 12-08-2014 08:56 PM

What did u order bro?

mam4.6 12-10-2014 06:40 AM

Where to start? Let me see if I can remember everything-

GG6 with green and orange pads

MF pads

foam hand applicators

MF towels-detergent

Tarminator

Sonax Full Effect wheel cleaner

Nanoskin Fine-grade mitt--what do you usd as lube? Can I use Iron-Out, or a terrible idea? Meg's Quick Detail Spray? Soap solution? Anything else?

Adam's Car Wash

Wool Mitt

FG400

PNS

Power Lock

Adam's VRT

Adam's APC

Set me back a bit, but free shipping and the 15% discount for newbs on the DB forum Phil advised me about helped a lot. Let me know if you think I need anything else. :)

Ricky Bobby 12-10-2014 10:24 AM

You might need a finishing polish after the FG400, depending on how it finishes down, its fairly versatile though and you might be able to use it with a less aggressive pad (green) to get it to finish down for you. I haven't seen your paint so I'm not sure what you're working with defect wise.

On my Topaz Blue I can get FG400 to finish down ready for LSP with no additional step needed, using an MF cutting pad, on black however you might need a finer polish. If your order hasn't shipped yet I would either add a bottle of Sonax Perfect Finish 4/6 or Menzerna SF4000 to the order, just in case you need that final polish. It will come in handy because now that my finish is maintained and corrected I can probably get by with a quick final polish once a year, and just clay/seal in between every 6 months.

Other than that your list looks good, use the Nanoskin mitt first on the glass (it says it in instructions) to "break it in", you can use car wash soapy water (fresh bucket of suds), after you are done washing, or you can use it with any QD spray (the Megs you mentioned would work fine if you are trying to use old stuff up).

You can definitely use IronX with Nanoscrub and it will do 2 things at once, just remember the mitt was meant to be used with a bucket of sudsy or soapy water so if you are using it with a QD or Iron cut spray to saturate the panels pretty good and keep the mitt wet in a bucket of suds. Lubrication is key with the mitt to prevent marring.

Good call on the Micro Restore, its all I use on my towels. Hope you ordered the gallon of APC, between cleaning the engine bay and tires/wheel wells you'll go through a decent amount of it. Only other thing I would order is the Wheel Woolies or the EZ Detail Brush for wheel barrels and complete wheel cleaning, they are honestly a lifesaver for me because they are so much quicker and easier to get the entire wheel.

I'd pick up a tire/wheel wells scrubbing brush as well in a future order but man you are off to a good start!

mam4.6 12-10-2014 01:45 PM

Already shipped expecting it any day. :( Guess i still got some time before Christmas to grab some of these things.

I think I'll be able to polish out my X with only the FG400, but I did wonder about the black. I'll probablx end up getting the 4/6. I'm sure it can't hurt to finish up with that, the more shine the better!!! :)

This is the starting procedure I was hoping for to get the detail rolling-

1. Pressure rinse

2. Hand wash with Adams Soap and APC mix to strip.

3. Rinse

4. Apply IronX liberally, let it work it's magic

5. NanoSkin Scrub- frequently rinse mitt in fresh soapy water to keep lubed. Would you clay after Scrub?

6. Rinse

7. Dry

And let the fun begin!

Definitely need to buy some wheel cleaning supplies. Since I'm getting my wheels refinished, I'll feel obliged to keep those barrels clean! :)

As always, thanks for the heads up on everything...

Keep it real...

Ricky Bobby 12-10-2014 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mam4.6 (Post 1019556)
Already shipped expecting it any day. :( Guess i still got some time before Christmas to grab some of these things.

I think I'll be able to polish out my X with only the FG400, but I did wonder about the black. I'll probablx end up getting the 4/6. I'm sure it can't hurt to finish up with that, the more shine the better!!! :) Yes on the black you will probably need 4/6 or the SF4000, the 4/6 is more expensive than SF4000 though. So if you want a pint of 4/6 its $30 but the 250ml (or half the amount) of 4/6 is $25. I like both polishes equally, the 4/6 dusts less, but the SF4000 is easier to work.

This is the starting procedure I was hoping for to get the detail rolling-

1. Pressure rinse

2. Hand wash with Adams Soap and APC mix to strip.

3. Rinse

4. Apply IronX liberally, let it work it's magic

5. NanoSkin Scrub- frequently rinse mitt in fresh soapy water to keep lubed. Would you clay after Scrub? I do, while the car is still wet as well, after rinsing off the Decon spray and after autoscrub. You can use the mitt side again and go around the car with the soapy mitt and clay, it will literally take you an extra 5 mins.

6. Rinse

7. Dry

And let the fun begin!

Definitely need to buy some wheel cleaning supplies. Since I'm getting my wheels refinished, I'll feel obliged to keep those barrels clean! :) Wheel Woolies for sure! Get the bent caliper spoke woolie too, I love them.

As always, thanks for the heads up on everything...

Keep it real...

See above man!

mam4.6 12-28-2014 11:11 PM

Finally got some pics to post up. Planning on starting Tuesday morning and installing a Belltech 751SP 2/4 lowering kit first, then moving on to the detailing. Doesn't look bad in this lighting, but wait till we get up closer...

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...3-img-0495.jpg

Somebody definitely did a number on this thing!! The stuff nightmares are made of!! :wow::wow:

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...4-img-0498.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...5-img-0499.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...6-img-0500.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...7-img-0501.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...8-img-0502.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...1-img-0510.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...2-img-0512.jpg

Polished one of the headlights a bit, made a difference, I thought... Took the yellowing out, along with some scratches...

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...0-img-0506.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...9-img-0505.jpg

I'll try to get plenty b4/during/after pics and post them up later this week. Let me know what you think. Suggestions and comments accepted...

mam4.6 12-29-2014 06:43 AM

Another question - After I finish up with the SF4000, do I need to do an IPA wipedown b4 applying any LSP?

mam4.6 01-03-2015 09:35 AM

I'm back! Got the lowering taken care of, took us a bit longer than planned (doesn't DIY always), since e couldn't find anybody to press our camber bushings into the UCAs while we waited. But we're finished, didn't get started on the detailing, but I'm off til Wednesday, so planning on Tuesday for that. A couple pics for your viewing pleasure...

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...9-img-0529.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...0-img-0538.jpg

Ricky Bobby 01-03-2015 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mam4.6 (Post 1021739)
Another question - After I finish up with the SF4000, do I need to do an IPA wipedown b4 applying any LSP?

Sorry Matt I didn't see your recent posts.

It wouldn't hurt to do an IPA wipedown (25% IPA/75% distilled should be fine) after final polishing to be sure you got all defects and fine swirls out.

Looking at that black Cadillac clearcoat, don't even waste your time and just go to town with the MF cutting pads and FG400. You'll need a couple passes from what I can see.

You'll also definitely need the SF4000 because the black isn't metallic, to make it finish down super fine.

Use the FG400 on the headlights/tail lights as well to remove oxidation. Have fun :)

mam4.6 01-04-2015 11:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby (Post 1022329)
Sorry Matt I didn't see your recent posts.

It wouldn't hurt to do an IPA wipedown (25% IPA/75% distilled should be fine) after final polishing to be sure you got all defects and fine swirls out.

Looking at that black Cadillac clearcoat, don't even waste your time and just go to town with the MF cutting pads and FG400. You'll need a couple passes from what I can see.

You'll also definitely need the SF4000 because the black isn't metallic, to make it finish down super fine.

Use the FG400 on the headlights/tail lights as well to remove oxidation. Have fun :)

No worries, we were busy elsewhere anyways...

Yeah, kinda figured I can work with the FG400 for awhile, with the amount of correction needed. Can't wait to break open my box from DD on Tuesday!

Edit: I do have a bottle of SF4000 ready to go as well.

Ricky Bobby 01-05-2015 01:08 PM

A good tip, you may want to hit the Cadillac with MF cutting and FG400 for a pass or two, then if you have the orange foam pad, try a last pass with orange foam and FG400. It may finish down LSP ready without a need for final polish.

You'll love FG400, it really is a phenomenal polish for the amount of cut and the way it finishes with basically no dusting whatsoever.

mam4.6 01-11-2015 04:16 PM

I did get finished last week with the detailing, just getting pics up now. I'm sure it's not perfect, but I felt it wasn't bad for a first-timer, with the amount of scratches and swirls I removed. Still had some very deep ones that I might have been able to get to with more time, but spent a whole day as it was... @RB, definitely needed that SF400o to finish up, the FG400 was awesome for cutting the swirls and scratches, and actually looked good after, but the SF deepened the paint/gloss, and made it look better all around. Should probably get buffed again just before next winter to get some of the deep scratches out. But, my brother was happy, so that's all that mattered. Didn't get time to work on my X. :( Didn't get any full sunlight pics, missed the sun by about 30 minutes. Pics below...

Thanks (J and E38flagship) for your help and suggestions on products and techniques. Looking forward to using them more, and getting better at it...

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...3-img-0544.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...4-img-0551.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...5-img-0550.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...6-img-0562.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...8-img-0610.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...7-img-0595.jpg

Ricky Bobby 01-12-2015 11:56 AM

50/50's look clean as hell, nice work man.

Yes now that I see its not black metallic yes you would have definitely needed final polish, I can only get away with FG400 as a one step if I am working on metallic paints. That Cadillac was hammered! Looks good, if anything you may just want to once-yearly do a green pad and SF4000 for maintenance polishing of light swirls.

You'll always have some RIDS left but better to have overall 85-90% of correction.

Now you need to educate your brother on proper 3 bucket method washing techniques and proper drying techniques/tools. The washing/drying is where the most amount of damage is inflicted in my opinion.

Oh, and he better never run through an auto car wash again...

mam4.6 01-12-2015 11:37 PM

@RB, I warned him, if he takes it back to the condition it was, he's on his own! I think he's scared to touch it, he called me this afternoon wondering if it's alright to use a quick detailing spray on it!! :D I did tell him he needs to quit the auto washes, and do the 3-bucket wash. I'm gettin' him there... It was so awesome, watching the transformation as we moved around the vehicle. He brought his buddy's GG orbital, so we could move on pretty good with two...

Can't work to work on mine, now that I have some buffing experience under my belt. Really wonder how much difference in depth I'll be able to see in the Estoril?

I'll be sure to update here whenever I get to it...

Ricky Bobby 01-13-2015 12:18 PM

You'll be sure to get a big difference for sure, Black paint is always the most dramatic pulling the tape line, but you'll definitely get back to original glory.

The GG orbital is a beast for the money isn't it? Sure its not a Rupes but it gets all the correcting I need accomplished.

mam4.6 01-13-2015 08:37 PM

I would definitely reccomend the GG orbital to anybody! With the right pad/polish combo, you can cut practically anything. I don't think it would be to hard to cut thru the clear either, with the amount of heat that I was generating at various places. Glad for the backing discs with holes in them that I ordered!

A Rupes would probably be better geared toward a detailing business. Which I don't know for sure, because I never used one.

I would love to buy a real small one to be able to get some of the corners better.
Maybe sometime...

Hopefully I'll be able to give the Esky another coat of LSP before he heads for Florida next week, it'll be interesting to see how long 2 coats will protect!

L8r...

Ricky Bobby 01-14-2015 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mam4.6 (Post 1023606)
I would definitely reccomend the GG orbital to anybody! With the right pad/polish combo, you can cut practically anything. I don't think it would be to hard to cut thru the clear either, with the amount of heat that I was generating at various places. Glad for the backing discs with holes in them that I ordered!

A Rupes would probably be better geared toward a detailing business. Which I don't know for sure, because I never used one.

I would love to buy a real small one to be able to get some of the corners better.
Maybe sometime...

Hopefully I'll be able to give the Esky another coat of LSP before he heads for Florida next week, it'll be interesting to see how long 2 coats will protect!

L8r...

Yes in detailing heat production on a panel is always a thing to check, although the machine is getting hot, the heat on the panel is nowhere near what you generate with a rotary.

Not sure if you got 4" pads or not from Phil, but I'd recommend getting a Porter Cable and putting a 3.5" backing pad on it and using it with 4" pads. Personally I like a dedicated machine but you can use 4" pads with a backing plate on the GG6 as well. The 3" GG machine doesnt have the power for correcting with 4" pads in my opinion, its only good for wax removal and carpet scrubbing.

You used PNS on the Escalade right? Or Power Lock? (I forget). Either way, 2 coats of either of those should give 5-6 months EASY.


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