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Old 11-27-2008, 12:21 PM
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 161
ripp222 is on a distinguished road
CV Boot Replacement DIY (Special Tooling)

As many X5 owners will find themselves with a torn outboard CV boot and grease dispersed all over the inside of their alloy wheel, I felt there would be some value in expanding on the existing write-up.

As you certainly can perform the boot replacement without the BMW special tooling, I was concerned over the likely damage to the dust shield and all the banging necessary to re-install the splined shaft into the spindle assembly (aka swivel bearing). As a result, I purchased the key components of the BMW special tooling (83-30-0-496-062 DEVICE, 83-30-0-494-797 SHIM and 83-30-0-494-152 PLIERS, $877 list + tax). I'll be ONLY focusing on the steps where it is used.

My torn outboard CV boot. Nothing surprising here.

Here's a shot of the Special Tooling parts need to press out the splined shaft (except for the aluminum spacer).

Clean the surface of the wheel spindle, so it's flat.

Place aluminum spacer over center hub.

Thread brass adapter onto rod which has roller ball, and place into holder.

Install all 5 lug bolts and tighten with socket (snug is sufficient).

Tighten rod by hand until resistance is felt, make sure roller ball is centered on splined stub shaft.

Install holder and use 1" socket extensions (or similar tool) to hold in place, then tighen rod further with socket. This will press splined shaft from spindle assembly.

After splined shaft is pressed mostly out, you can use a smaller ratchet.

Pull spindle assembly to the side (to the front of the car actually worked better for me, despite the photo).

Inside shot.

Note: I found I needed to brace the drive shaft in order to drive the outer ball joint and stub shaft off. I ended up putting the drive shaft in a vice, although this wasn't easy to get the vice up into the correct spot...

Replace boot per original write-up. Use Special Tooling (pliers) to crimp the bands.

Here's a shot of the parts need to pull the splinded shaft into the spindle assembly (except for the aluminum spacer).

Align splined shaft with spindle (TIS says to put a bit of oil on the splines) and thread rod onto splined stub shaft.

Place aluminum spacer over center hub and install holder with 3 lug bolts (snug is sufficient).

Thread brass & bearing Special Tool onto rod.
Install holder and use 1" socket extensions (or similar tool) to hold in place.

Use large adjustable wrench to tighten brass & bearing part onto rod. This will pull the splined shaft into the spindle assembly.

Once the resistance increases noticeably, you can remove the special tooling and install the 36mm nut onto the exposed threads and tighten down to pull the splined stub shaft the final distance.
I used the installed wheel method to perform the final torque on the 36mm nut. Note the hydraulic jack used the vary the tire height so I could brace the ratchet head on the jack stand.

As for folding the outer rim of the 36mm nut onto the stub shaft flats - well that doesn't appear to be overly easy. Perhaps someone has a good solution here?

One last observation... in the more extensive write-up on the X5 homepage it states,
"I had best luck by cupping the Stub in both palms as my fingers reached over the open joint to help squeeze the C-Clip in evenly."
The critical text to note here is "...squeeze the C-Clip in evenly."
You NEED to compress the C-Clip during installation of the outer ball joint, otherwise you will likely deform the C-Clip while driving
the outer ball joint onto the drive shaft! I used adjustable pliers and was successful after 2 tries.

If another X5 board member would like to rent the Special Tooling (3 BMW part numbers mentioned above), send me a PM to see if I still have it. I plan to replace the passenger side outboard CV boot in the next couple months (preventative maintenance) and will likely sell the tooling afterwards.
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