Are they running out of Xenon or something?
 

I just got several quotes from dealers. The best I could find was $223 for one xenon bulb. I am certainly NOT going to pay that price - especially when they need to be replaced in pairs (for aesthetics), so the question becomes - which auto parts store will sell the best non-oem replacement?

OEM genuine Philips or Osram for less than $80 a pair shipped

www.hidbulbzrus.com

Never go to the dealer. Almost any oem or equivalent part can be bought for much cheaper online.

Yes, cheaper, I understand, but are the bulbs being recommended going to last more than a year? Are these 4300 bulbs?

Also, are the OEMs 35w or 55w?

Do you know the full specs of the bulbs I need? Or is philips d2s xenon 85122 BMW OEM a good enough description to get the right replacement?

Appreciate the information...

Edit:

OK, I have been searching the rest of the net:

• looks like the low beams are usually 35w?
• looks like most Phillips bulbs on the net are counterfeit?

Yes 35w and yes there are a lot of counterfeits.

BMW doesn't make bulbs, they just get them from Philips and charge an insane markup. You need to pick a reputable online vendor to get authentic bulbs. Places like hidzrus, candlepower, and powerbulbs are good.

I have osram night breakers from powerbulbs for around $110-140 shipped depending on the sale.

Is there anything wrong (not for my car) about this spec bulb?

Philips Standard HID 85122/D2S Headlight Bulb (1-Pack)-85122C1 - The Home Depot

Yes there is 2 problems - why are you buying from Home Depot, don't be a cheapskate and try to buy one bulb either -

Your bulbs need to be replaced in PAIRS - xenons age and the color temp will be different - at 10 years old your bulbs are probably half the brightness of new -

I sent you a link for genuine bulbs and yes the Philips 85122 would be an OEM equivalent pair - I believe they are $75 shipped

As I indicated in my OP, I am buying 2 bulbs.

What is it that makes these bulbs "cheap?" Are they not the OEM Manufacturer?
Are they not the right spec?
Are they not the same bulb you recommended?
What is it that makes the Home Depot source inferior to the site you recommended?
Why does it matter if they are from HD if they are the right bulbs? With the HD, they are delivered to within a mile of my home and I do not pay any shipping.

While I do appreciate the recommendation, I am not seeing any difference in the product?

Relax I'm just poking fun - you put up a 1 bulb link so I thought you only went with 1.

Personally I never thought to buy headlight bulbs from Home Depot.

And if you know anything about Philips/Osram xenon bulbs you'd notice that there are a TON of fakes floating around, even at reputable sources or stores. Which is why I provided a link to a store/seller who is 100% genuine bulbs

I'm sure Home Depot is sourcing their internet catalog from 3rd party places, similar to Amazon, which has been proven in the fast to have sellers providing fake bulbs.

My .02

You can get them at home depot, but their authenticity comes into question like RB said.

It seems you went a little wild there, and then advised me to relax. I would recommend you take the same tonic.

While your .02 is appreciated, I see no difference in using a website unknown to me - over a nationally known store.

And yes, the link was to the spec for the product. The number purchased has nothing to do with the link until a person actually clicks to buy.

What is it about your source that guarantees they are OEM and not just puffery? Yes, I see the blurb there about counterfeits, but I also called Philips and they are the ones who recommend HD. I would hope they are on top of the issue. When I get the bulbs I can examine them and see if I can tell if they meet the authentication from the website. Best thing is, if I am not convinced, I can simply walk or drive the mile to return them to the store.

This guide may or may not be helpful - until I get the bulbs I cannot say.

https://thecounterfeitreport.com/pro...nd-Lights.html

Considering that the source I listed is confirmed as being the son of a very well known retrofitter on HIDPlanet who has aviation contracts with Philips and this enables his son to buy the bulbs by the case in bulk and run the business with 100% genuine bulbs being sold.

I try to help on this forum as much as I can. Take it or leave it type of thing.

You said a bulb is $223 from the dealer - I sent you a genuine source for a $75 pair - if you don't want to use it then go for it, if 3rd party items are easily returned at Home Depot then go for it because I cannot vouch for authenticity.

Amazon is nation wide too, yet they have counterfeits.

The vendors we listed have a reputation for only selling authentic bulbs which can be verified with the bulbs authentication markings. Home depot couldn't care less about authentic automotive lighting. Not saying you can't get authentic bulbs from Home Depot, I'd just rather spend less and get known authentic bulbs vs the crap shoot that is Home Depot.

Just because you haven't heard of these vendors before doesn't mean that they don't have a reputation. They specialize in this stuff and if you have never had to replace these types of bulbs before then you obviously would not have heard of them.

Perhaps what you have said has some ring to it. But just because someone does not take your recommendation does not mean that you should be offended or in any way upset that they went in another direction.

I am not looking for a web based source, that is why I stated in my OP that I am looking for an "auto parts store" that sells the bulb. Now maybe semantics have come into play but when I say parts store I mean brick and mortar - not a web site.

But again as I said earlier, thank you for the suggestions.

If Philips recommended HD... buy them from there. That sounds like the recommendation you were after. The bulbs you posted will work fine. http://www.xoutpost.com/images/smilies/thumbup.gif

I've used Powerbulbs.com and love the Osram Nightbreakers. Much brighter than OEM Phillips.

Thanks

They are not running out of xenons but probably the dealership is running out of customers that normally would buy xenons.:yikes:

OP, I second RB's recommendation.

We both (and a few other posters in this thread) follow the automotive lighting retrofit scene and those guys (along with powerbulbs and theretrofitsource, also mentioned by others), are go-to suppliers for genuine bulbs at great prices.

What you are saying is like a BMW newbie saying "I called BMW to ask where to buy parts and they said the dealer, so I'm buying there. I wouldnt buy from ECS or Pelican or RMEuro because they arent authorized or nationally recognized".

Not debating with you, just trying to help you reconcile his view with yours. :)

If you feel more comfortable with your research, there's no problem with that. :)

I myself got Osram Nightbreakers from Powerbulbs and are much brighter in both perception and instrumented testing by third parties posted online, and couldnt be happier with them. I would have gotten from hidbulbz but I was specifically looking for the higher output Osrams.

OK, I received my bulbs on Friday. And yes, according to the Philips authentication website and all other information they are indeed authentic.

Thanks to all who helped me find the right bulbs.

Now for the hard part...

This is a simple job in concept, but very difficult in practice.

I think my frustrations come from several fronts:

1. The instructions I find on the web are not for model year 2006 and are not 4.4i motor specific
2. the Bentley manual - as usual - is beyond useless
3. Most of the information I find on-line is incomplete

All that I write below is based on getting the driver side bulb in and out...

• The bumper definitely does NOT have to come off.
• The power steering reservoir and coolant overflow tank are squarely in the way and must be released (not removed) so that you can get your hand behind them (for some reason the Bentley says a air intake must be removed (I am assuming they must be referencing a 3.0 operation)
• Removing the headlamp assembly from the car is unnecessary and would appear very difficult to me based on what I have seen so far. But loosening it so that the assembly can slide forward and give you more room is helpful.
• In several places it says that the squarish rear lamp cover must come off - this is wrong. It does not come off, it is moved back and away. Internal wiring prevents it from being removed.
• There are three very small t-20 screws holding the rear cover in place.
  • The top left is in a circular plastic enclosure - this one is very easy to get out.
  • The (toppish) right screw is easy too, but when I removed this one the plastic enclosure loop broke off - it is very brittle.
  • The third screw is on the bottom, under the wiring harness and if you are not careful will fall to the the bottomless pit of the bumper when dropped.
• It seems that removing the three screws does nothing, but in fact the cover sits on - is part of a tongue and groove assembly and once the screws are removed, the cover must be "peeled" away from the headlamp assembly.
• Once the bulb is exposed it takes just a minute to replace it...
• Getting the three screws back in place is a PITA. The top two are easy, but the bottom screw is causing me a lot of trouble. So much that I came come out of my garage to settle down and write this. My problem is that a number of times I have tried to get the screw back in and dropped either the screw or the tool down into that bottomless pit of a bumper. Fortunately I DO have a magnetic probe that I have been able to stick down in that pit 4 time so far to retrieve the screw or tool. If there is any way that you can find to temporarily mate the screw with the tool in order to get the thread started, you will be ahead of the game.

Now, back to the hunt.

This may seem strange, but I was able to tie the screw to the tool tip using thread. I tied a knot around the screw and wound the thread around the screw and the shaft of the t-20 tool to get it started.

The screw where the loop broke off is another issue. I am currently looking for a small flexible (plastic washer that will be able to apply pressure where the loop broke.)

Edit:

OK, bulb is in and works. Now the passenger side. From the look of it, it will be much easier - after the air cleaner is removed.

Odd that you only have three screws - my '05 has four - two on the top edge, one on the lower indie edge (deeper in) and another on the lower outside corner - this last one is the swine to get at.

Here's an image of the cover - this is the left side - view is from the front, looking back.

http://www.autopartsapi.com/eEuropar...5abd0023b2.jpg

The swine screw is the one on the lower right in the above image (lower left side on the car)....

No, I didn't have this screw hole (circled in red) at all. You say this is the left (driver) side? I am not sure why mine is different.

I guess it's just the difference is the models or something. Mine's RHD so the headlights are a little different. :D

Although... I checked on RealOEM and the rear cover part number is the same for both our cars.. :dunno:

Oh the joy of working on the 4.4 E53.....not looking forward to replacing both my xenons. Hands too big and patience too short...
So from what I can tell, the general consensus is to go with the Osram Nighbreakers? About A$225 a pair, unless any other Aussie members can point me in a better direction? Is there a particular part number I should be looking for? TIA.

As I said somewhere else here, I'm not sure that we (Aussie's and Kiwi's) get the full Bi-Xenon lights - just the Xenon low beam, so the NightBreakers may not make such a big difference. Having very bright low beams might be ok but as the cut-off is pretty sharp, you don't get any extra range from the NightBreakers (over the standard Osram/Philips D2S lamps).

YMMV... :p:

Thanks for the tip. Not that I do a great deal of night driving in the E53, I still need reasonable vision due to the many 'roos that are prevalent in my neck of the woods. Hit one (or rather - it hit me) in the Landcruiser the other night.... dented driver's side rear door (not too badly). On-coming vehicle didn't dip his/her headlights until almost upon me and that's when I saw the 'roo bouncing from my right across the road... BANG! Managed to push dent out thankfully. Kangaroo not in good shape sadly. Would have made a mess of the E53 I think.

The nightbreakers (A$204.60 for two) are the same price as the Philips (A$102.29 each). That said, the nightbreakers through powerbulbs.com.au are sold out... Will have to wait until they're back in stock before ordering a pair.

BTW, I might want to pick up a new cover - what part number do you have for this? Even if it is not the same, it might be a good starting point for a search.

Depends on your exact headlight configuration: -

With Xenon OR Adaptive -
Left - 63126927795
Right - 63126927796

With Xenon AND Adaptive -
Left - 63126928211
Right - 63126928212

from here: -

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

Glad you got them in.

I prefer to just remove the bumper personally. Takes about 15 minutes but saves a whole helluva a lot of cursing.

I can understand that... But never having done that job there is the "fear of the unknown."

When I read that I will have to pry the bumper at places and that there are "tabs" that hold it in place I instantly thought that some of these "tabs" may be brittle too and break instead of deflect (are these tabs or slots hard plastic?).

So for this reason, I will save the bumper skin job until I have to.

Shame because it would be nice to remove the lower hash grille and replace it.

OK, started the passenger side. Compared to the driver side, this is a cake walk. So far I have about 15-20 minutes in.

To WPoll, the cover on this side does have 4 screws.

After getting the Air cleaner out of the way - and fishing out one of the air cleaner clips that dropped into the abyss (these are not magnetic and therefore would not be fished with my magnet stick - fortunately I also have a spring claw that worked), these four screws came out without anything breaking.

I have just washed my hands and am waiting for them to fully dry so I can get the nitrite gloves to slide on (one size fits all - my eye).

Back to the garage

Edit:

OK, job is done. Before closing the hood I will recondition the lenses.

Lessons learned from this job.

1. The lamps can be ordered from any site that will honor return if they prove not to be genuine. In cases where there are many counterfeits, be sure to call the manufacturer to get a reputable seller. Philips has a authenticity sticker and serial number on each bulb and package, and they have an authentication application on their site. Sites recommended by others may be just as good a source, but I would check them out too to be sure they will honor returns. (This is a case I think, of "to each their own" and caveat emptor.) But to all who contributed to this thread, thanks again. I do appreciate both the recommendations and the specs provided
2. If you can find one, get a strongly magnetic Torx 20. I didn't have one, but I was able to get screws into place using (a) thread to tie the screw onto the torx head, and (b) tape works as well. The screws fit very loosely into the torx head. In future I might consider replacing the short screws with much longer ones with a shallow shoulder.
3. If, like me, you have big hands (wide) loosening and pulling the lamp assembly forward helps, but also have a magnetic probe and a claw available to pick up dropped screws or tools. (2 ft length)
4. I can shoot myself for not replacing the cornering lights at the same time - they look like a joy too.
5. Instead of a Torx socket and ratchet, I would recommend a Torx screwdriver, about 5"
6. The ignitors are not position the same driver and passenger sides. One is 90 degrees rotated compared to the other.
7. I was going to write that next time I have to go in, I will probably completely remove the power steering and coolant overflow tanks, but thinking further, I do believe it would be much easier just to remove the bumper cover. I kind of think it is insane that the whole cover needs to be removed in order to get the lights free.
8. Next time I need to replace bi-xenons, I think I will also order new rear lamp covers.
9. Although some write ups do not mention it, be sure to pull the headlamp fuse, make sure the auto light switch is turned off and do not leave the keys in the ignition. I would not go as far as disconnecting the battery though.
10. The bulbs are not super hard to obtain, but the auto parts stores are charging about twice the price of any mail-order, and it will take a minimum of two-three days to get them mail order. For this reason, if you are a road warrior like me who criss crosses the country frequently and on a whim, I would recommend boxing up the bulb that was still burning and sticking it into your emergency kit. When I say boxing, I mean a wooden box that will not allow the bulb to be crushed.

I just bought these last week, worked out great.

http://amzn.to/2jWOmEn

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....L._SL1500_.jpg

Swapped out the D2S HID bulbs this morning. An 'Australia Day' task that I've been kinda dreading for a while. Wasn't as bad a job as I thought it would be.
The OEM bulb is a strange beast.... Didn't look like anyone else had ever been in there judging by the difficulty in separating the headlight rear cover from the front. Ended up with Osram Nightbreakers (35W) for cheaper than Philips, but had to wait 10 days as they came from the UK (half the price they wanted here in Aus).