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-   -   Door handle carrier. - HELP!!! (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/108225-door-handle-carrier-help.html)

snik 05-13-2018 06:19 PM

Door handle carrier. - HELP!!!
 
Hey everyone. So I'm attempting to do the carrier handle or handle carrier, whatever it is, for the rear passenger side.
For the life of me I cannot get that 4mm Allen bolt that holds the key lock block on, to line up. I almost cross threaded it, but I caught it early pulled it all apart and saved the thread.
I'm to the point I'm putting the broken carrier back on and it's the same shit. I cannot catch the bolt thread. It doesn't line up and the handle won't sit flush either. I don't know what I'm doing wrong or what I missed. Any tips please.
This was supposed to be a quick fix and it essentially ruined our day as I've been out here all day trying to catch this stupid bolt and hoping it will make the handle fall flush and I can button it all up.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...86f4d96d02.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...62f3203c0b.jpg
As u can see here. The handle does not sit flush at all. The Phillips screw and nut that hood lady the handle on, are both in tight.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c3c076d64d.jpg


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xbimma 05-13-2018 07:07 PM

Are you using aftermarket part? I have had the same issue about a month ago. Solved it purchasing the OEM part which lined up perfectly like a glove in my case. Drove around for a day without door handle [emoji3]

snik 05-13-2018 08:21 PM

Yeah. I am. I got it on but the handle doesn't sit flush. I guess that's what I get for not going oem.
I read several success stories with Amazon carriers. I guess I don't have the same luck.


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snik 05-13-2018 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xbimma (Post 1134318)
Are you using aftermarket part? I have had the same issue about a month ago. Solved it purchasing the OEM part which lined up perfectly like a glove in my case. Drove around for a day without door handle [emoji3]



What was weird is the original one still wouldn't line up.
I eventually on the thousandth attempt, got the bolt in, but now the handle isn't flush. At least the handle works again, tho. Just sticks out. Now I worry my door is gonna be filled with excess water when it rains.


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oldskewel 05-13-2018 08:29 PM

I've been in a similar situation. I don't remember what it was, but I struggled for a while, then figured out some trick to get it aligned and it worked fine. And I have now put Febi Bilstein door handle carriers on all 4 doors, working and fitting great.

So I'd recommend getting it to work and not blaming the aftermarket parts. Sorry that I can't remember what I did. I spent a while looking at the pics, but it did not come to me.

andrewwynn 05-13-2018 08:44 PM

I have had to trim the rubber weather seal with a razor on about 50% of my handle carrier replacement jobs.


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snik 05-13-2018 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1134329)
I have had to trim the rubber weather seal with a razor on about 50% of my handle carrier replacement jobs.


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Really?
Wow. That might be the ticket.
Where exactly do you trim? And why should we have to.


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kmm111 05-13-2018 08:55 PM

Try leaving the Phillips screw & nut loose until you get it started. Additionally try wiggling everything around. I’ve been where you are, there is no one solution, just be patient

snik 05-13-2018 09:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kmm111 (Post 1134331)
Try leaving the Phillips screw & nut loose until you get it started. Additionally try wiggling everything around. I’ve been where you are, there is no one solution, just be patient


Thanks.

I had tried that, it was suggested in one video. Didn't make a difference.
I'm not sure how or why it aligned on the thousandth attempt. I was pressing shit together like i had been doing all morning.



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Overboost 05-13-2018 09:12 PM

The problem I had and is probably the same you are experiencing when my right rear handle carrier had the same issue (not lining up and handle not sitting flush to the door) was that when I installed the new carrier, I did not get the carrier UNDER the lip inside on the door skin at the top of the carrier. Make sure to lean it in so the top of the carrier goes under that metal lip in the door itself. If you look inside real close, you can see it. I struggled with this for an hour before I figured out my blunder. :thumbup:

wpoll 05-13-2018 10:08 PM

To add to what the others have said, you have to get the retaining bolt partially installed, so the end of the thread is sitting flush with the outer side of the new carrier (flush with the end of the plastic retainer sleeve). Then press the lock carrier into place and hold it hard against the door seal while turning the retaining screw.

What some folk don't realise is that the carrier hole is threaded too and so you need to "set" the distance between the two parts before winding in the retaining screw; once they are both engaged in the threads no amount of tightening will alter the distance between them. That's why the lock carrier ends up not sitting flush.

snik 05-13-2018 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wpoll (Post 1134347)
To add to what the others have said, you have to get the retaining bolt partially installed, so the end of the thread is sitting flush with the outer side of the new carrier (flush with the end of the plastic retainer sleeve). Then press the lock carrier into place and hold it hard against the door seal while turning the retaining screw.

What some folk don't realise is that the carrier hole is threaded too and so you need to "set" the distance between the two parts before winding in the retaining screw; once they are both engaged in the threads no amount of tightening will alter the distance between them. That's why the lock carrier ends up not sitting flush.



I realized that early on. That's not the issue I'm having. I literally could not get the bolt to line up with the lock part of the handle at all. Somehow I got it in, now the grab handle itself won't go down all the way flush.


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snik 05-13-2018 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Overboost (Post 1134337)
The problem I had and is probably the same you are experiencing when my right rear handle carrier had the same issue (not lining up and handle not sitting flush to the door) was that when I installed the new carrier, I did not get the carrier UNDER the lip inside on the door skin at the top of the carrier. Make sure to lean it in so the top of the carrier goes under that metal lip in the door itself. If you look inside real close, you can see it. I struggled with this for an hour before I figured out my blunder. :thumbup:



Hmmm. I will have to look into this. Everything seemed to point to something not being right on the inside, but I couldn't see anything.

Was this on your rear doors? How did you see it?


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Overboost 05-13-2018 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snik (Post 1134351)
Hmmm. I will have to look into this. Everything seemed to point to something not being right on the inside, but I couldn't see anything.

Was this on your rear doors? How did you see it?


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Right rear just like yours. I actually had to lay down on the floor and look up the void on the inner side of the door with a flashlight. Then I reached my hand up there and felt it and mumbled under my breath "frickin amateur"...
Tilted the top of the carrier under the lip and it went right in.

andrewwynn 05-14-2018 01:49 AM

I believe the seal was binding on the top. lower the handle slowly and watch for binding. I think the handle is moving upward and inward when it hits the seal.

On at least two but not every occasion the seal want smooth or flat enough after 17 years and I used a utility razor blade out of the knife to shave a few thousands of an inch (hundreds of mm) off where it was binding and it went flat in a minute or two. Also some spray lubricant helped

andrewwynn 05-14-2018 01:57 AM

My hinge broke on my back left door carrier a couple weeks ago. I've been able to still open the door with a strong/quick tug but that won't last forever. I'll be repairing soon most likely just repair the existing one with wire wrap or alumaweld. I will post pictures.

I don't like replacing with the same exact design flaws as the broken one so I reengineer much stronger so it won't re-break.


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Awntchi 05-14-2018 03:05 AM

Check if the cable on the Non oem carrier is the same length as the OEM carrier. I had the same issue as you and realised (after many attempts and swear words) that the cable was shorter then oem. I switched them over and it worked straight away.

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deepblonde 05-14-2018 03:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1134361)
My hinge broke on my back left door carrier a couple weeks ago. I've been able to still open the door with a strong/quick tug but that won't last forever. I'll be repairing soon most likely just repair the existing one with wire wrap or alumaweld. I will post pictures.

I don't like replacing with the same exact design flaws as the broken one so I reengineer much stronger so it won't re-break.

Thank you, your pictures will be appreciated. :2thumbs:

snik 05-14-2018 06:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Awntchi (Post 1134362)
Check if the cable on the Non oem carrier is the same length as the OEM carrier. I had the same issue as you and realised (after many attempts and swear words) that the cable was shorter then oem. I switched them over and it worked straight away.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk



I didn't notice they were different lengths. I can't recall which was longer now. I had swapped to the original cable. But later swapped back to the one the new carrier came with.


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snik 05-14-2018 06:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1134361)
My hinge broke on my back left door carrier a couple weeks ago. I've been able to still open the door with a strong/quick tug but that won't last forever. I'll be repairing soon most likely just repair the existing one with wire wrap or alumaweld. I will post pictures.

I don't like replacing with the same exact design flaws as the broken one so I reengineer much stronger so it won't re-break.


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Mine is cracked at the hinge around the axle. Not sure how I could even fix it.


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snik 05-14-2018 06:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Overboost (Post 1134354)
Right rear just like yours. I actually had to lay down on the floor and look up the void on the inner side of the door with a flashlight. Then I reached my hand up there and felt it and mumbled under my breath "frickin amateur"...

Tilted the top of the carrier under the lip and it went right in.



I think you might be on to something here.


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andrewwynn 05-14-2018 06:10 AM

Door handle carrier. - HELP!!!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by snik;
Mine is cracked at the hinge around the axle. Not sure how I could even fix it.


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That is the exact way they almost always break and it's easy and basically free to fix.

I wrote an exact how to with video and photos you can try to find its difficult to find with the app

Here is some helpful preventative measures when using a new carrier:

www.xoutpost.com/1123434-post260

Awntchi 05-17-2018 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snik (Post 1134364)
I didn't notice they were different lengths. I can't recall which was longer now. I had swapped to the original cable. But later swapped back to the one the new carrier came with.


I didn't get that, were they different lengths? If the cable is shorter and you (by some miracle) do get the screw lined up and the cable hooked then the door handle will never go into a "resting" position. It will be strained and stick out a lot from its resting position.

snik 05-17-2018 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Awntchi (Post 1134552)
I didn't get that, were they different lengths? If the cable is shorter and you (by some miracle) do get the screw lined up and the cable hooked then the door handle will never go into a "resting" position. It will be strained and stick out a lot from its resting position.



That was a typo. I DID notice they were different lengths. I did some swapping around, but I dont recall which is in there now. I would have to look what's on the broken carrier.

It is sticking out, but it was doing that before I hooked the cable. So it seems something else is amiss.


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sgrice 08-10-2020 02:35 PM

I realize that this thread is 2 years old and snik has undoubtedly figured something out by now. But just in case someone comes across this posting when they have a problem getting the door handle carrier fitted properly, I wanted to add my recent experience working on my son's e53 rear door handle carrier.

Same as snik and some other postings I found, we had trouble aligning the hex bolt. Tightening the front philips screw caused the rear part of the door handle to become misaligned.

Eventually we figured out it was because the bowden cable was pressing against the door lock/latch actuator. If we removed the bowden cable the door handle carrier fit perfectly and all the screw holes aligned nicely. Put the bowden cable back into the door handle carrier and things were shifted a few millimeters out of alignment. The solution was to remove the 3 torx-30 bolts that hold the door lock actuator in place. With the door lock actuator out of the way, the door handle carrier with bowden cable was easy to position. Then the door lock actuator was replaced, and the 3 T-30 bolts tightened up.

Just looking at a number of postings, this (door lock actuator hampering the proper seating of the door handle carrier) seems to be a bigger problem with the rear door. Certainly, I have done a front door handle carrier without having to do anything with the door lock actuator. Others have also stated that for the rear the door lock rod will hamper removing the door handle carrier - it has been recommended to pop the door lock rod out of the actuator to allow the door handle carrier to be removed/installed.

So when doing the rear door handle carrier, my strong advice is to start by unbolting the door lock/latch actuator and letting it drop down inside the door frame a few inches. This will allow you to much more easily remove the door handle carrier (gets the door lock rod out of the way), and prevents any problem getting the door handle carrier fitted properly where all the bolts line up.

Hope that helps someone in the future.

andrewwynn 08-10-2020 03:57 PM

Always remove the actuator. You can change it without but it's 5x as difficult front and 10x more difficult rear!

omodos 02-15-2021 02:17 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Morning all and sorry to hijack post, ok had my driver side door handle carrier replaced 2 weeks ago usual bit broke, all ok, but on close inspection i have the issue posted here at the the part of the trim that covers the key hole, it doesn't sit flush against the seal.....is there any easy way to pop this part of the trim off ? and tightening that bolt shown in pic will pull the part closer and flush to the panel? If not and i have to rip open the whole door then gonna use a touch of silicon sealant in areas as we are looking at 1-2mm gap....

cheers

omodos 02-15-2021 02:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wpoll (Post 1134347)
To add to what the others have said, you have to get the retaining bolt partially installed, so the end of the thread is sitting flush with the outer side of the new carrier (flush with the end of the plastic retainer sleeve). Then press the lock carrier into place and hold it hard against the door seal while turning the retaining screw.

What some folk don't realise is that the carrier hole is threaded too and so you need to "set" the distance between the two parts before winding in the retaining screw; once they are both engaged in the threads no amount of tightening will alter the distance between them. That's why the lock carrier ends up not sitting flush.

Mr.Wpoll long time no speak, and a late happy nu year, ok being pedantinc as usual but the steps you mention here do i need to rip the inner door cards off?

Or can i just remove the black plug on the innerside of the door to get to the allen key bolt and adjust that?....got a 1-2 mm gap on the part of the trim that fits over the door lock after having the door carrier replaced...

wpoll 02-15-2021 03:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by omodos (Post 1199907)
Mr.Wpoll long time no speak, and a late happy nu year, ok being pedantinc as usual but the steps you mention here do i need to rip the inner door cards off?

Or can i just remove the black plug on the innerside of the door to get to the allen key bolt and adjust that?....got a 1-2 mm gap on the part of the trim that fits over the door lock after having the door carrier replaced...

Pretty easy to sort - you just need to remove the small black door plug, loosen off the allen key (bolt), seat the lock cover tight against the seal then tighten the allen key bolt. There's a bit of a trick to it - it's not your normal bolted on part set-up... :rolleyes:

omodos 02-15-2021 03:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wpoll (Post 1199911)
Pretty easy to sort - you just need to remove the small black door plug, loosen off the allen key (bolt), seat the lock cover tight against the seal then tighten the allen key bolt. There's a bit of a trick to it - it's not your normal bolted on part set-up... :rolleyes:

Wpoll tad confused, in what is in essence a duplicate post that you kindly replied to you told me below, i am hoping I can do above though, loosen the allen key screw push down on the 'thumb keyhole' part of handle and get it flush then tighten the allen key screw at same time...


Here is the message that has just been posted:
***************
There is a bit of a trick to fitting the lock cover assembly - it needs to be seated tightly prior to tightening up the allen key. If the cover is loose when the allen is tightened, it will stay loose. At this point, simply tightening the allen key (bolt) won't pull the lock cover in tighter.
***************

wpoll 02-15-2021 03:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by omodos (Post 1199913)
... i am hoping I can ... loosen the allen key screw push down on the 'thumb keyhole' part of handle and get it flush then tighten the allen key screw at same time...

Exactly, you've got it. No need to open the entire door up - only the two-part black access port in the door edge. :thumbup:

andrewwynn 02-15-2021 03:29 AM

There is a thin spacer around the front screw: if it's in the wrong place it will mess up the alignment

wpoll 02-15-2021 03:30 AM

Cover....

https://i.ibb.co/4TyhddW/7uFodPw.png

Bolt...

https://i.ibb.co/6tYkWsJ/7xpe0nl.png

wpoll 02-15-2021 03:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1199915)
There is a thin spacer around the front screw: if it's in the wrong place it will mess up the alignment

Exactly - the allen bolt is captive in the DHC - the lock cover must be tight against the seal when the bolt is tightened down.

omodos 02-15-2021 03:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wpoll (Post 1199914)
Exactly, you've got it. No need to open the entire door up - only the two-part black access port in the door edge. :thumbup:

Zippeee dooo dah great, so still got the 3.0d? mines still alive and will keep her as long as she goes (kinda like the missus) , managed to also get rid of a whacky trembling steering wheel issue when hitting between 80km-110km....which i am sure was also the reason the outer edges of my front tires were being worn away...
Asked the lads at a garage to swap backs to fronts, and am sure lining up the steering wheel to dead straight helped too....so that issue gone tooo

ok cheers for reply

wpoll 02-15-2021 03:36 AM

Yep - never giving up my 3.0d either!

Just serviced the ZF 6HP26X transmission. - that was fun! ;)

Always something to fix....:confused:

omodos 02-15-2021 04:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wpoll (Post 1199920)
Yep - never giving up my 3.0d either!

Just serviced the ZF 6HP26X transmission. - that was fun! ;)

Always something to fix....:confused:

Hmmm yes I have had those few occasions where I feel someone had rear ended me and all say its the transmission,, but I have managed to know 'when' it does this thump and adjusted my driving technique to avoid it....

omodos 02-15-2021 04:32 AM

:xoutpost:
Quote:

Originally Posted by wpoll (Post 1199918)
Exactly - the allen bolt is captive in the DHC - the lock cover must be tight against the seal when the bolt is tightened down.

Will get out my round edged butter knife to pop off the to 2 covers you show and tinker....cheers again

omodos 02-15-2021 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1199915)
There is a thin spacer around the front screw: if it's in the wrong place it will mess up the alignment

hmmm ok not got round to trying this....hopefully loosening the allen key screen pushing down the handle cover to its final pace then tightening the screw will keep the cover in place

Shottaroddz 02-15-2021 01:31 PM

Hi all, I did this febi bilstein replacement too and it was tricky but got it to work - sort of??

My e53 recently succumbed to the cold weather and my drivers door handle carrier snapped.

I’ve gone about replacing it with a bilstein equivalent part and all seemed ok. However, it now seems the end of the plastic handle that isn’t bolted to the carrier (i.e. the end towards to front of the car) pulls out of the carrier unless the I pull very carefully.

Has anyone experienced this? I’m wondering if I need to replace the handle now too. Maybe the plastic peg on the handle that slots into the carrier (highlighted in picture) is shorn and isn’t getting good purchase. What’s this connection meant to look like? What am I missing here?

Any thoughts/comments welcomed.

Cheers

C

andrewwynn 02-15-2021 02:39 PM

Door handle carrier. - HELP!!!
 
If you are describing what I think the one side of handle has a 1/8th turn (bayonet) lock and if the nubs wear off it will pull out

Shottaroddz 02-15-2021 02:44 PM

Yes! That’s it mate, that’s as I suspected, makes sense, just needed that confirmation.

Ughhh, now I have to take the door apart again 😅

wpoll 02-15-2021 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shottaroddz (Post 1199952)
Yes! That’s it mate, that’s as I suspected, makes sense, just needed that confirmation.

Ughhh, now I have to take the door apart again 😅

You should be able to replace the pull handle without taking the door apart.

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...arrier13_2.jpg

The repair to the existing pull handle (a self-tapping screw and washer into the front mount point) will require removal of the door card...

andrewwynn 02-15-2021 06:54 PM

You can reproduce the missinf nub with a self tapping screw, JB Weld and Dremel/file work.

omodos 02-16-2021 02:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wpoll (Post 1199911)
Pretty easy to sort - you just need to remove the small black door plug, loosen off the allen key (bolt), seat the lock cover tight against the seal then tighten the allen key bolt. There's a bit of a trick to it - it's not your normal bolted on part set-up... :rolleyes:

Phew dunnit! tricky with no tools as we are in process of moving house and of course first things to go to new place are my tools! so had to find an allen key, I used one I had when assemble IKEA units, had to bend the end so i could easily turn round and round and remove the bolt faster, kids were late for school, i ended up breaking a light bulb too as it was too dark to see what I was doing and dropped the damn thing....after alot cursing it was indeed as you say, initially the whole thing popped off.....so pushed and held in position and the then tightened...all good back to the way it was before thanks flush with seal and door panel...the 1-2mmm gone!!!!!

wpoll 02-16-2021 05:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by omodos (Post 1199974)
.....so pushed and held in position and the then tightened...all good back to the way it was before thanks flush with seal and door panel...the 1-2mmm gone!!!!!

Great - well done. Many mechanics seem to miss details like this... but then, they ARE in a hurry when they are spending the customer's money!

omodos 02-16-2021 05:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wpoll (Post 1199978)
Great - well done. Many mechanics seem to miss details like this... but then, they ARE in a hurry when they are spending the customer's money!

hmmmm yup bit of an odd one this one, last 2 times this was done, I insisted on staying with the car at garage had no choice , the guy took an absolute AGE! he was pussyfooting about , i was in a right mind to tell him , Chris you told me there was a fixed price to this, if it takes 10mins as opposed to 1 hour i will still pay you what we agreed! it took him 1 hour cos he was farting around with other jobs too but he did it fine.....this time good ole father in law volunteered to take x5 to a mate of his sons....panel beater, he did it in 30mins....and left that 1-2mm gap PLUS wouldn't accept payment! but my father in law gave him 20euros....


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